We spent a total of 4 days in North Macedonia at the beginning and end of our Balkan road trip. We started in the capital, Skopje. From here, we paid a 24 hour visit to neighbouring Kosovo, before picking up our hire car and heading to the spectacular Lake Ohrid. We then crossed the border into Albania, returning to Skopje for the final day of our trip.
We chose North Macedonia as our starting point for two reasons. Firstly, Skopje has good flight connections. Secondly, in several of the countries on our itinerary, car rental companies prohibited taking their vehicles to other countries on our itinerary. Hertz in North Macedonia permitted us to take the car everywhere we wanted to go, with the exception of Kosovo, which we visited by bus. They also provided all the documentation necessary for the various border crossings and made the whole process extremely easy.
North Macedonia 4 Day Road Trip Itinerary
| Day 1 | Skopje Travel to Skopje Accommodation – Alexandar Square Boutique Hotel Macedonia Square Mother Teresa Memorial House Macedonia Gate Woman-Warrior Park Art Bridge Bridge of Civilisations Stone Bridge Dinner at Rock Kafana Rustikana |
| Day 2 | Lake Ohrid Drive to Ohrid Accommodation – Villa & Winery Mal Sveti Kliment Lake Ohrid Dinner at Restoran Cun Lake Ohrid Boardwalk Sveta Sofija Cathedral Sveti Jovan at Kaneo Drinks at Mal Sveti Kliment |
| Day 3 | Lake Ohrid Ohrid City Park Amphitheatre Car Samoil’s Fortress Gorna Porta |
| Day 4 | Skopje Accommodation – Hotel Senigallia Archaeological Museum of Macedonia Holocaust Memorial Centre National Theatre Skopje Fortress Dinner in the Čaršija |
North Macedonia Day 1 – Skopje
Travel to Skopje
We get off to a good start with an uneventful flight. We take the airport shuttle bus into town, which drops us at the Holiday Inn. From here, it is a short walk along the river to our accommodation in the old town.
Accommodation – Alexandar Square Boutique Hotel
We were booked into the Alexandar Square Boutique Hotel but were telephoned yesterday to say that they were overbooked, so could we go to the new Htoel Alexandar II instead. This is a longer walk from the bus stop. It’s also 10 degrees warmer in Skopje than not-so-sunny Bournemouth, so we haul our overdressed selves and our luggage to Alexandar II to be told that we have a room at Alexandar the original after all. So, it’s back the way we came, somewhat sweaty and rather unimpressed.
However, the Alexandar Square is a nice hotel with very clean, comfortable rooms. Conveniently located right next to the main square, yet quiet and cool inside despite the heat and bustle of the city.
After a freshen up, we set forth to discover Skopje, which, I am reliably informed, is richly endowed with statues.
Three things about Skopje:
- If, like me, you love weird statues, Skopje is weird statue heaven.
- It’s a bit like being transported back to the 80s.
- The locals obsessed with Mother Teresa, who was born here.
Macedonia Square
Dominating the centre of Skopje is the enormous Macedonia Square with its giant statue of a warrior on horseback, which may (or may not) be Alexander the Great, towering above a fountain.
The sculpture was erected as part of a project entitled Skopje 2014. Many of the city’s buildings were destroyed during an earthquake in 1963. In 2010, the government announced a huge construction project of buildings and monuments to replace damaged buildings and instill national pride. The square is particularly striking at night, when it is illuminated.
Mother Teresa Memorial House
From the square, we head for the Mother Teresa Memorial House – on the site of where the great woman may (or may not) have been born in 1910..
Downstairs is a museum displaying memorabilia related to the famous nun while upstairs is a chapel decorated with ornate filigree doves and Mother Teresa stained glass.
The House is open daily from 9 am until 8 pm (2 pm at weekends). Entry is free.
Macedonia Gate
We continue our walk round the old town, passing through the Macedonia Gate; a memorial arch dedicated to 20 years of Macedonian independence. It is covered in reliefs carved in marble depicting scenes from the history of Macedonia. Part of the Skopje 2014 project, the arch was completed in 2012 and cost a whopping €4.4 million.
Woman-Warrior Park
The urban Woman-Warrior Park contains a number of sculptures and memorials to various episodes in the country’s history including the Fallen Heroes Monument and the now extinguished Eternal Flame.
We finish with a walk along the River Vardar with its beautifully adorned stone bridges.
Art Bridge
The Art Bridge is a modern pedestrian bridge, another part of the Skopje 2014 project. It is lined with statues of 29 Macedonian artists and musicians.
Bridge of Civilisations
The Bridge of Civilisations (nicknamed Eye Bridge due to its shape, which incorporates a central fountain) is another modern bridge. This bridge is lined with 28 sculptures of historic figures.
Stone Bridge
The Stone Bridge is far older, dating back to the 15th Century. As the name suggests, it is made of stone, and has twelve arches. In front of the bridge, you can see a sculpture of two ladies swimming.
Dinner at Rock Kafana Rustikana
Once I am suffering from SSO (Statue Sensory Overload), we head for restaurant Rock Kafana Rustikana for beer and sausage (lots of beer and sausage). Then back to the hotel for an early night. We have been up since 4 am and have an early start tomorrow to catch a bus to Kosovo.
Note: Since our visit, the restaurant has moved to a new location, so is not quite so convenient for tourists.
North Macedonia Day 2 – Ohrid
Drive to Ohrid
We pick up our hire car and set off for Ohrid. It’s a scenic drive through the mountains, but takes longer than expected due to a succession of roadworks and one way systems.
Ohrid has a quaint, cobbled old town which tumbles down the hillside ending at a beautiful lake. Unfortunately, Google Maps sends us down the perilously narrow cobbled streets, which are heaving with tourists. It’s quite a stressful drive in our very new hire car. We go round in a cobbled circle. Then give up, park at a car park near the marina and walk to the hotel.
Accommodation – Villa & Winery Mal Sveti Kliment
Our accommodation in Ohrid, Villa & Winery Mal Sveti Kliment, is, as the name suggests, part hotel, part winery. Reached by a set of cobbled steps, the ancient villa is full of character and there’s a bar in the basement where you can taste their wine.
Once settled in, we wander back down the cobbled hill to explore the quaint, streets of Ohrid Old Town and purchase a few souvenirs.
Lake Ohrid
Ohrid is a pretty town, however the star of the show is the stunning Lake Ohrid; beautiful by day and even more beautiful at sunset.
Dinner at Restoran Cun
We’re tired and hungry after our long drive, so we choose a lakeside restaurant, Restoran Cun, which has tables right next to the lake. Here, we can unwind over dinner and a beer whilst taking in the wonderful view.
Lake Ohrid Boardwalk
Refreshed, we walk along the Boardwalk as the sun sets, which turns the lake a shade of lavender.
Sveta Sofija Cathedral
We stop at Sveta Sofija Cathedral, which dates back to the 11th century. Inside, the church is decorated with Byzantine frescoes dating from the 11th to 14th Centuries.
Outside is a pretty garden, where you might spot a tortoise.
Sveti Jovan at Kaneo
Then, we climb to Sveti Jovan at Kaneo; a 13th century church perched on the cliff top overlooking the lake.
The view is spectacular, even though it is almost dark by the time we arrive!
The church is open daily from 9 am until 6 pm. Entry costs MKD 100 (around £1.40). During the day, it is possible to catch a boat between the church and the old town (around MKD 300).
Drinks at Mal Sveti Kliment
We round off the evening with a glass of wine from our hotel/winery. Ohrid is rapidly becoming one of my favourite places.
North Macedonia Day 3 – Lake Ohrid
First, the slightly surreal experience of breakfast in a wine cellar. The lack of natural light causes me to mistake jam for chutney and smother it all over my cheese and sausage. It tastes surprisingly good.
Ohrid City Park
We take a last wander along the shores of Lake Ohrid, stopping to admire the floral displays in the lakeside Ohrid City Park.
Amphitheatre
The we head for the fortress on the hillside. On our way up, we pass the Amphitheatre. This ancient hillside stadium was build in the 3rd Century BC. A century later, the Romans arrived and added seating (and removed a few rows to fit in gladiators). Parts of the theatre have been reconstructed and can seat 1700 people for outdoor performances.
Tsar Samuel’s Fortress
Built in the 10th Century, the huge Tsar Samuel’s Fortress sits overlooking the lake.
You can walk along the ramparts and admire the ancient fortifications and the lake glistening down below.
The Fortress is open daily except Monday from 9 am until 3.30 pm. Entry costs MKD 150 (around £2).
Gorna Porta
We depart the city via Gorna Porta, the ancient Upper Gate and set off on our drive to Albania.
North Macedonia Day 4- Skopje
Our Balkan road trip is almost over. From Serbia, we drive back to Skopje. Since we were last in Macedonia (three weeks ago) there has been a referendum to change the country’s name so that Greece stops vetoing its application to join the EU. 90% voted in favour, although only 30% of the electorate turned out. No one is sure what to do next. It’s a bit like a reverse Brexit. Note: Subsequent to our visit, the decision was made to change the country’s name to North Macedonia.
Accommodation – Hotel Senigallia
We drop the hire car and walk to our accommodation. Tonight, we are staying on the Hotel Senigallia; a boat moored on the river in the heart of the old town. Here, you can enjoy drinks/dinner overlooking the River Vardar before retiring to your cabin and falling asleep listening to the water flow outside – and it’s conveniently located for sightseeing too!
For our second day in Skopje, we focus mainly on attractions on the north bank of the River Vardar.
Archaeological Museum of Macedonia
Across the Bridge of Civilisations, you will find the Archaeological Museum of Macedonia. Built as part of Skopje 2014, the museum houses three floors of Macedonian archaeological treasures dating back thousands of years.
The museum is open daily except Monday, from 10 am until 6 pm. Entry for foreigners costs 150 MKD (around £2.10).
Holocaust Memorial Centre
The Holocaust Memorial Centre tells the story of Macedonian Jews and remembers the 7144 who perished during the Holocaust. When we visited, the Centre was closed, so we only saw the memorial outside.
The Centre is open daily except Mondays, from 9 am until 7 pm (3 pm at weekends). Tickets cost 100 MKD (approximately £1.40).
National Theatre
It’s worth taking a wander past the National Theatre, which is surrounded by a collection of theatrical themed sculptures.
Skopje Fortress
The 6th Century Skopje Fortress dominates the city skyline. You can take a stroll round the ramparts, which offer great views of the city.
Čaršija
The Čaršija, the old Turkish bazaar, is an area of narrow lanes, where you can shop for souvenirs or dine in one of the many restaurants. We stop for a dinner of kebabs and ajvar (roast peppers in oil). Having developed a penchant for ajvar, I also buy an enormous jar to take home with me.
Time for one last stroll round Skopje with its abundance of statues then back about our boat for an early night. Tomorrow it’s back to the UK to start planning our next trip…
- Trip taken: September 2018
- Updated: August 2025
I hope you found the above information useful. For guides to more destinations in the 50+ countries we have visited, check out my full list of Independent Travel Itineraries here.
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