Sofia is an ideal place for a weekend break. We went to Sofia for a long weekend, spending two days in the city and a third day on a tour to Rila Monastery, stopping en route at Boyana Church. The Monastery, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is around 70 miles south of Sofia. It is quite spectacular, so I thoroughly recommend making room in your itinerary to go and see it.

Getting There

We flew to Sofia Airport, which is about 6 miles east of Sofia. From here, it is a 26 minute trip into the city on the Metro (Line M4). Tickets cost 2 Lev (about 90 pence).

Getting Around

Most of Sofia’s attractions are close enough together to be visited on foot. To reach those which are further out of town, we took the Metro. On the final day, we took a full day guided tour to Rila. There are plenty of options for trips to Rila; we went with Traventuria, which costs 30 Euros for transport only or 35 Euros for the tour option. The bus departs from Aleksander Nevski Cathedral at 9 am, returning at approximately 5 pm.

Where we stayed

We stayed at the Arena di Serdica Boutique Hotel. This isn’t where we booked; we had a reservation at another hotel further out of town with a pool. But when we arrived, our intended hotel had a problem and moved us. The Arena di Serdica is a very nice, centrally located hotel. It doesn’t have a pool – when builders started digging the hotel’s foundations, they discovered Roman remains, which have been excavated and incorporated into the hotel’s design.

Itinerary

Day 1	Flight to Sofia Accommodation – Arena di Serdica Boutique Hotel x 3 Sveti Nikolai Russian Church President’s Building Aleksander Nevski Cathedral St George Rotunda Church Dinner at Happy Bar and Grill
Day 2	Museum of Art from the Socialist Period Borisova Gradina Monument to the Soviet Army National Palace of Culture Saint Sofia Monument Central Department Store Vitosha Boulevard Dinner at Hadjidraganovite Kashti
Day 3	Boyana Church Rila Monastery Dinner at Vitosha Street Bar & Dinner

Attractions

1	Sveti Nikolai Russian Church
2	President’s Building
3	Alexksander Nevski Cathedral
4	St George Rotunda Church
5	Museum of Art from the Socialist Period
6	Borisova Gradina
7	Monument to the Soviet Army
8	National Palace of Culture
9	Saint Sofia Monument
10	Central Department Store
11	Vitosha Boulevard
12	Boyana Church
13	Rila Monastery

Day 1

Flight to Sofia

The flight to Sofia is uneventful. We head for the Metro station and after a few issues with the ticket machine, head into town for our hotel. It’s very hot and we manage to exit the Metro at the wrong exit and head in the wrong direction (twice). By the time we eventually reach the hotel, we are very sweaty; the pool is sounding all the more inviting. At reception, we are informed that there has been a burst pipe and an entire floor (ours) is out of bounds. So we are sent by taxi to a sister hotel.

Arena di Serdica Hotel

It’s quite unique staying in a hotel with its own Roman ruins. And it is a very nice hotel. Also, much more central than the one we’d booked. But I am still disappointed by the lack of a pool. And I’m not sure about the weird modern art draped across the ancient amphitheatre…

Sveti Nikolai Russian Church

After refreshments in a nearby bar (no pool, so we have to make do with a beer) we set forth for some sightseeing. First, the Sveti Nikolai Russian Church, set in pretty gardens, with its glistening golden onion domes.

President’s Building

Next up the President’s Building. Building wise, there’s not much to see at the President‘s Building; security is tight and you can’t get particularly close. But it’s definitely worth coming here on the hour to see the Changing of the Guard. It’s like military theatre.

Aleksander Nevski Cathedral

The number one tourist destination in Sofia is, of course, the Aleksander Nevski Cathedral. This enormous 19th century cathedral is synonymous with the city of Sofia and is quite a sight on a sunny day with the light reflecting off its many domes.

St George Rotunda Church

One last church; Saint George Rotunda Church. Built in the 4th Century, this tiny church is Sofia’s oldest preserved building. 

Dinner at Happy Bar and Grill

We usually try to and eat authentic local food on our travels, but it’s been a long, hot day so we just plonk ourselves down at the nearest eatery and end up drinking sangria and eating chips at the Happy Bar and Grill.

Day 2

Museum of Art from the Socialist Period

Way back when, I studied East European Studies at university and love a bit of socialist realist art. So our first full day in Sofia entails a metro ride out to the suburbs and the fascinating Museum of Art from the Socialist Period.

The M4 Line to G.M. Dimitrov gets you to within a 10 minute walk of the museum. It’s not the easiest place to find. However, in amongst a range of modern office buildings, we finally spot an enormous red star which indicates we have located the museum.

After the fall of communism in Bulgaria, officials wondered what to do with various sculptures and art work which depicted communist ideals and were in evidence across the city. The answer was to take it all down and dump it in a garden; the Museum of Art from the Socialist Period.

Here, you can wander round the garden full of Lenin busts, red stars and all manner of other sculptures. There’s also an art gallery. This is my idea of the perfect way to spend a morning.

The Museum is open from Tuesday to Sunday between 10 am and 6 pm. Entry costs 6 lev.

Borisova Gradina

We return to the Metro and head a couple of stops back towards town, alighting at Vasil Levski Stadium for the next on the list on this morning’s socialist sculpture extravaganza. This one is located in the Borisova Gradina, a large area of parkland, with plenty of gardens and statues as well as various cafes and bars for refreshments along the way.

The Mound of Brotherhood

Our ultimate goal isn’t signposted, or maintained, but we finally find it behind the trees covered in graffiti; The Mound of Brotherhood.

The mound is home to a 42 metre high socialist realist obelisk flanked by working class heroes and gun toting communists.

Monument to the Soviet Army

One final stop as we head back into town, in search of yet more socialist art; the Monument to the Soviet Army. This WW2 War Memorial with another gun toting Russian soldier atop a column surrounded by scenes of struggling peasants is classic socialist realism. Call me weird, but I love this stuff.

On occasions, it has been the subject of some, let’s say paint attacks. My favourite is this Pop art makeover, when the soldiers were painted to resemble various American characters, such as Superman, Ronald McDonald and The Joker.

Saint Sofia Monument

We catch the Metro back to Serdika for our next stop; the Saint Sofia monument which sits in the middle of a traffic island. This statue of Saint Sofia, after whom the city is named, sits atop a 24 metre column. She replaces the previous occupant; Lenin. It’s quite difficult to photograph the statue as (1) it’s very sunny and (2) I don’t want to get run over.

Central Department Store (TZUM)

Next, a quick detour to the Central Department Store. This ornate building, constructed in the 1950s, was communist Bulgaria’s flagship store with 120,000 visitors a day.

Vitosha Boulevard

We take a wander along the kilometre long stretch of Vitosha Boulevard, lined with shops and street cafes towards the National Palace of Culture.

National Palace of Culture

The National Palace of Culture is another icon of the communist era. This octagonal (in my opinion) concrete monstrosity, built in the 80s, houses a concert hall, conference centre and cafes. It is reached via a fountain lined park; Ploshtad Bulgaria.

Dinner at Hadjidraganovite Kashti

It’s been a long day with a lot of walking. Time to go in search of sustenance. We have chose a restaurant offering Bulgarian food and entertainment; Hadjidraganovite Kashti. It’s a bit kitsch, with wooden menus, staff in national dress and live folk music. But it is an entertaining evening. With very good food.

Day 3

I don’t usually opt for organised tours, but today we are heading 70 miles south of Sofia to Rila Monastery, and I don’t fancy doing that on public transport. So, we opt for a guided tour. We reach the meeting point in plenty of time. Which wasn’t necessary, as it seems like an absolute age before everybody is present and we’re ready to depart.

Boyana Church

First stop, on the outskirts of the capital, is Boyana Church. This tiny 13th century church is famous for its muralled walls. Only 8 people are allowed in at a time, so it takes a while before our entire group has been into the church, despite the 10 minute time limit. Also, photography isn’t allowed. It always makes me grumpy when I’m not allowed to take photos.

The church is open daily from 9.30 am until 5.30 pm and entry costs 10 lev.

Eventually, we set forth once again for Rila. Next, a pit stop at a service station. Again, it takes a while before everyone is ready to depart. I am very much reminded of why I don’t usually do organised tours.

Rila Monastery

Finally, four hours after departing Sofia, we reach our ultimate destination; Rila Monastery. Despite the onset of a bout of tour group grumpiness, I have to admit it spectacular. Both the building and the location. The 10th century monastery sits next to a river nestled at the foot of the Rila Mountains.

The courtyard reminds me of an inside out wedding cake with its stripy tiered arches.

The courtyard walls are covered in ornate murals.

It is possible to wander around much of the monastery (there are monks resident here) and there is also a museum housing religious artefacts. The monastery is open daily from 7 am until 7.30 pm. Entry to the complex is free, with the museum costing 8 lev.

Allotted time up, we depart once more for Sofia. Just time for a quick trip to the loo before we go. Not the best toilets I’ve ever frequented.

Dinner at Vitosha Street Bar & Dinner

We finally make it back to Sofia. Having spent so much of the day in a bus, we find a restaurant with outdoor seating to enjoy the warm summer’s evening and eat (and drink) plenty of Bulgarian produce; Vitosha Street Bar & Dinner.

• Trip taken: June 2016
• Updated: April 2023