We spent a day in Zagreb as part of a Balkan Road Trip. It is a pretty little town, but a day is probably enough to see the main sights.

Itinerary

Day 1

Drive to Zagreb Zrinjevac Strossmayer Square B&B at 4City Windows Cathedral of the Assumption Dolac Market Trg Bana Jelačića Funicular Railway Museum of Broken Relationships St Mark’s Church

Attractions

1	Zrinjevac
2	Strossmayer Square
3	Cathedral of the Assumption
4	Dolac Market
5	Trg Bana Jelačića
6	Funicular Railway
7	Museum of Broken Relationships
8	St Mark’s Church

Zagreb Day 1

Drive to Zagreb

Today is our third and final visit to Croatia, to the capital city of Zagreb. It’s all motorway, so progress is rapid but dull. After days of yearning for a decent road as we picked our way along Bosnian goat tracks and Albanian roadworks, I’m bored of motorways now. The old man alleviates the the boredom briefly by taking a wrong turn and accidentally heading for Austria.

Zrinjevac

We find our way back onto the Zagreb road, cross the border and reach our destination by 10.30. Lonely Planet doesn’t have much to say about Zagreb, which is fine as I am out of clean underwear. So, first port of call is the laundrette. While I’m waiting for the machines, I take a wander in the nearby gardens of Zrinjevac.

Strossmayer Square

Then, I walk down the road to admire the communist era statues in Strossmayer Square.

B&B at 4City Windows

Armed with clean pants, we check in to our B&B; 4City Windows, which is run by a lovely couple. We are in the Cartoon Room which features hand drawn cartoons from war time animated films.

Our hosts help us plan a route to visit the old city and we set forth to peruse the various churches, notable buildings and parks. It’s a pleasant walk as most of the roads are pedestrian and there are plenty of parks and squares.

Cathedral of the Assumption

We start with a visit to the succinctly named Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary. The twin spires of this gothic cathedral dominate the city.

The cathedral is undergoing renovation. On display are new and old pieces of stonework to demonstrate the damage which has occurred over time. If pollution can cause so much damage to stone, what chance do our lungs have?

Dolac Market

Next, we cross the square to the market, vibrant with flowers and all manner of produce. We purchase some lunch from one of the stalls.

Trg Bana Jelačića

Then we sit on the edge of the statue in Trg Bana Jelačića to eat our calzones. It’s all glamour this travelling malarkey. A peruse of my guide book tells me that the statue is of a 19th century viceroy who led Croatia into battle with Hungary. Tito ordered it to be taken down, but after his demise, the statue was returned to its place in the square.

Funicular Railway

Lunch sorted, we take the 18th century funicular railway to the upper town, where we accidentally get caught up in the filming of a documentary.

Museum of Broken Relationships

Next, we head for the intriguingly named Museum of Broken Relationships (somewhat ironically in Dverce street). People donate items which remind them of the end of a relationship, together with an explanation. There’s quite a range on display from the moving (a mother’s suicide letter, a court document from a child raped by someone she trusted) to the more humorous (a Divorce Day mad dwarf thrown at an ex’s new car).

My guide book describes the museum as ‘quirky and innovative’. While some of it is interesting and poignant, there are many long-winded self- indulgent explanations of failed love affairs. To be honest, I can think of better ways to spend £5. However, it’s kind of a Zagreb must-see so I’m glad I’ve seen it.

St Mark’s Church

We round our day off with St Mark’s Church. The roof, tiled in the colours of the Croatian flag, complete with coats of arms is emblematic of the city, and indeed Croatia.

We return to our B&B to shower and repack ready for tomorrow’s drive to the 8th and final country of our Balkan trip; Serbia.

Trip Taken: September 2018

Updated: September 2022