We spent 3 days exploring the Moroccan city of Marrakech. We chose to stay at a traditional Riad in the heart of the Medina – the ancient fortified city, which is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Most of our time was spent discovering the sights of the Medina, with the exception of the morning of Day 3, when we took a taxi to the spectacular Jardin Majorelle. We found that staying in the Medina was convenient for sightseeing, as we could return to the cool of the Riad after time spent in the dusty heat of the city. Then venture forth later for further exploration and for dinner.
How to get to Marrakech
We flew to Marrakech from London. Marrakech Menara Airport is located 4 miles south west of the city. The L19 bus runs in a loop from the airport to the Medina, the new town and back to the airport. The fare is 30 dirham. If you catch the bus back to the airport from the Medina, bear in mind that it is not going straight there and takes somewhat longer than the outward journey. There are other local buses which stop on the road near the airport entrance and cost just 4 dirham.
We arrived late a night, so opted to take a taxi, which was organised by our accommodation. If you are staying in the mainly pedestrian Medina, you’re unlikely to be able to get close to your accommodation by car. Our accommodation sent someone to meet our taxi. Finding your way through the labyrinthine alleyways of the Medina can be difficult, so I would recommend this, especially if you’re arriving after dark.
Getting around Marrakech
Most of our time was spent discovering the sights of the ancient Medina on foot, with the exception of the morning of Day 3, when we visited the spectacular Jardin Majorelle. In the Medina, walking is pretty much the only option. To get into the new town, we opted to take a taxi. There are also plenty of buses running between the Medina and the new town. The fare is 4 dirham.
Where to stay in Marrakech
We opted to stay in a Riad; a traditional Moroccan house built round a courtyard or garden. This is convenient for exploring the Medina. However, if you want all mod cons and modern hotel facilities like a swimming pool, then staying in a modern hotel in the new town may be more appropriate.
We stayed at Riad Lhena, which is decorated in a traditional Moroccan style.
It has a courtyard and a roof garden with plunge pool (you may have to ask for it to be filled).
Marrakech in 3 Days Itinerary
| Day 1 | Flight to Marrakech Djemaa el Fna by Night Accommodation – Origin Hotels. Riad Lhena |
| Day 2 | Djemaa El Fna by Day Koutoubia Mosque Koutoubia Gardens Saadian Tombs Badi Palace Bahia Palace Dinner at Chez Brahim |
| Day 3 | Jardin Majorelle Medersa Ben Youssef Marrakech Museum Shopping at the Souk Dinner at Chez Brahim |
Marrakech Day 1
Flight to Marrakech
Upon arrival at Marrakech Menara Airport, the queue at immigration is frightful. It takes an almost record time of 2 hours and 3 minutes to pass through immigration. Not that I was counting – that’s a lie, I counted a lot!
Finally, we make it out of the airport and are relieved (and somewhat surprised) to discover that the driver we had booked to meet our flight is still waiting patiently outside. He takes us into town, but we are staying in the Medina, so he cannot take us the whole way. He drops us off at a petrol station near the Djeema el Fna, where a man with a hand cart is waiting to walk us and our luggage the rest of the way to our accommodation.
Djemaa el Fna by Night
By now it’s almost midnight. The main square, the Djemaa el Fna, which dates back to the 11th Century, is alive with music and dancing. There are vendors of food, drink and pretty much anything else you can think of.
There are people and motor bikes everywhere and we have no idea where we’re going, so we trot along behind our guide/porter, trying to not lose him whilst also trying to not get run over by the constant stream of bikes down narrower and narrower alleyways until finally we reach a wooden door.
Accommodation – Origin Hotels Riad Lhena
We have made it to Origin Hotels Riad Lhena; a traditional style house in the Medina. We are tired, hungry and thirsty. We are offered water, tea and cakes while we check in. There are four cakes, all dipped in nuts. I’m allergic to nuts, so now only one of us is hungry.
We are shown to our room, which is basic, but decorated in a traditional Moroccan style. It’s too late to venture out again, so we crash without dinner. As mentioned above, one of us has just eaten four cakes. One of us had a sandwich 10 hours ago and is less thrilled with the situation. But the alternative is heading into the medina alone after midnight…
Marrakech Day 2
We initially wake up at 6.30 am when the first call to prayer sounds. Not being religious, I find it hard to understand quite why one would feel the need to get up at 6.30 for anything. Once the faithful have been summoned, we settle down to a couple more hours of sleep.
Finally, it’s 8.30 and time for breakfast. We ascend to the roof of the Riad, which has a seating area, plunge pool and a great view of the Medina. I am relieved to find that breakfast is substantial; breads with cheese, jam and honey, fruit, yoghurt, an omelette and some very freshly squeezed orange juice.
After breakfast, we set off on a day of sightseeing. This morning, we are walking in a kind of square (theoretically, although we do get lost a few times) with five main points of interest along the way.
Djemaa El Fna by Day
We head first to Djeemaa el Fna, which we walked through last night, but were unable to stop, because we were following our porter.
This morning, the sqaure is somewhat less frenetic. Some stalls are open but many aren’t yet. It has thinned out enough to be able to see the snake charmers and monkey owners, which I don’t really want to see.
I order some really tasty freshly squeezed pomegranate juice from one of the many juice stalls and we wander round, trying to give the snake charmers a wide berth.
Koutoubia Mosque
At the far end of the square is the Koutoubia Mosque. This 12th Century mosque is in fact the second to be built on the site. The first was of a similar construction, but did not facing Mecca. Oops!
The tall minaret topped by a spire of brass balls can be seen across much of the city. Non Muslims are not allowed to enter. So, we take a walk around the perimeter, then cross into the gardens opposite.
Koutoubia Gardens
The palm lined Koutoubia Gardens with their fountains and flower beds and the ancient mosque in the background make for a pleasant place to spend some time plus a great photo op.
Saadian Tombs
Next, we head for the Saadian Tombs; a 16th Century Sultan’s tomb complex. My guide book says that the entrance to the Saadian Tombs is unmarked but provides directions on how to locate it, which we manage on our third attempt. Primarily because a tour bus pulls up at the side of the road and we have a group to follow. The complex consists of a garden filled with tombs of women and court staff and a row of buildings containing the more splendid tombs of the men.
Chamber of Three Niches and Prayer Room
The first building you come to is the the Chamber of Three Niches. These tomb rooms, with a prayer niche to indicate the direction of Mecca, are all intricately decorated.
Chamber of the twelve Pillars
Next, is the even more intricately decorated Chamber of the Twelve Pillars. The chamber, with its multi couloured tiles, plaster inlaid with gold and 12 marble pillars, is the final resting place of Sultan Al Mansour.
There’s quite a queue to see the Chamber. I’m getting airport déjà vu, but we get into line anyway, we are British, after all. A mere 20 minutes later, we have reached the front and get our chance to see (and of course photograph) the chamber. While we were waiting, I overheard tour guides telling their clients that it wasn’t worth the wait. Either I have a different opinion to the tour guides or they were deliberately misleading their clients to avoid standing around for half an hour.
The tombs are open daily from 9 am until 5 pm (10 am until 4 pm during Ramadan). Entry for foreigners costs 100 dirham.
Badi Palace
Next on the itinerary is the 16th Century Palace Badi Palace ruins, which promises storks and views from the ramparts. Again, we follow the directions of my guide book, which says to head through Place des Ferblantiers and turn right along the ramparts. The first entrance we come to is blocked and a man tells us that the palace is closed, so we move on. However, as we continue along the street, we notice people on the top of the palace and work our way along the ramparts until we discover the entrance.
Subterranean Chambers
Upon entry to the palace, we are in a small courtyard lined with Subterranean Chambers. These contain some displays of photographs of the Kasbah and conditions for the slaves and prisoners who used to live in the chambers. There are, indeed storks watching on from the ruined walls.
Courtyard
On through a gate and we find ourselves in a large Courtyard made up of sunken gardens and reflecting pools. The pools are pretty empty, but you can get a feel for how grand the palace must once have been.
Room housing the Katoubia Minbar
One room houses the 12th Century Katoubia Minbar, which is decorated with gold and silver calligraphy. Apparently, the reason it ended up here is related to the whole Mosque not facing Mecca saga. To be honest, I lose interest when I spot the ‘No Photography‘ signs. But not before attempting to take a sneaky photo of the minbar, which features a reflection of me taking a sneaky photo. Caught in the act!
The Badi Palace is open daily from 9 am until 5 pm (10 am until 4 pm during Ramadan). Entry for foreigners costs 100 dirham.
Bahia Palace
Last on today’s ‘To Do List’ is the Bahia Palace; an ornate 19th Century palace. The palace consist of a series of buildings and courtyards. We purchase our tickets and step into the first courtyard. There are so many people crammed into the palace that we can hardly move.
Petit Riad
We continue to the Petit Riad. Here, white plasterwork is inscribed with verses from the Quran. To be honest it’s so crowded that it’s hard to see much at all. We move on to the Grand Riad.
Grand Riad
According to my guide book; the Grand Riad, which is built round a courtyard of fountains and foliage, was conceived by a former slave who became the Sultan’s top aide. I’m sure he’d be impressed at how many people are currently milling around his grand courtyard taking photos of other people taking photos.
Cour d’Honneur
Supposed to be the pièce de résistance, the 1500 square metre, marble floored former harem of the Cour D’Honneur was being refurbished when we visited. So it was so somewhat of an anti-climax as only one end of the courtyard was accessible – the rest was a building site.
The Bahia Palace is open daily from 8 am until 5 pm. Entry costs 70 dirham.
It has been a long day and we have walked 6 miles already, so we decide to head back through the chaos of the Medina to our Riad for a rest. We’re getting the hang of the Medina now, and make it back to our Riad in its tiny alleyway without even making a wrong turn.
With so many miles covered today, my feet are killing me, so we head to the roof to relax. There is, theoretically, a plunge pool. It has no water in it, but we have been told that it can be filled upon request. Someone has obviously requested it, as the water has been turned on. Some considerable time later, there is a few inches of water in the bottom of the pool. Some guests appear in swimsuits, take photos and leave again. It all looks like too much effort for too little reward. So we order a beer instead.
Dinner at Chez Brahim
Suitable rested, we set off in search of dinner. We head along our alleyway to restaurant Chez Brahim, which gets good reviews on Tripadvisor and claims to be open from midday until 11.45 pm. We are told that the kitchen isn’t ready and to come back in an hour.
After an hour, we head back in search of dinner. The kitchen still isn’t quite ready, but we take a seat and spend some time perusing the menu. To be honest, Morocco isn’t the best culinary choice for someone with a nut allergy. And the narrow alleyways of the medina aren’t the place to be taking a risk. How on earth they would get an ambulance anywhere near the place is a mystery to me and I’d like it to stay that way!
So I order an eggplant salad, which tastes amazing, followed by kofta kebabs and chips. The old man’s tagine, brought to the table still sizzling, looks amazing, albeit laced with almonds. He obviously agrees as he gazes at it lovingly. I round dinner off (the 3 course menu costs 120 dirham – less than £10) with fruit of the day; pomegranate. I’ve certainly had my 5 a day, and most of them were pomegranate!
Day 3
Jardin Majorelle
Today, we have an early start as we have tickets to visit the Jardin Majorelle. According to my guide book, this is the most visited attraction in Morocco, so lord knows how crowded it’s going to be. I thought yesterday’s trip to the Bahia Palace was crowded enough.
After a substantial breakfast of omelette, pancakes, bread, yoghurt and pomegranate, we go in search of a taxi. Everything I have read about Moroccan taxis tells us that we should haggle over the fare. The old man is not very good at haggling. And to be honest, even when he does negotiate a price downwards, he adds a tip on top, reaching or even surpassing the initial price. But he has been practicing hard all morning, so I am intrigued to find out how much the journey of a little under 3 miles ends up costing us.
We walk as far as the square, locate a taxi and ask how much to take us to the garden. He says 50 dirham, the old man says OK and we jump in. So much for haggling!
The exotic former garden of French artist Jacques Majorelle was created in the 1920s but fell into ruin after his death, until it was purchased by fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent and his partner, who had it restored to its former glory.
I’m looking forward to the Jardin Majorelle because everything I have read leads me to believe it is magnificent. And not looking forward to it because everything I have read leads me to believe it will be extremely crowded. We have purchased a time specific ticket online in advance. This means that we can skip one of the two queues. We have selected 9 am in the hope that it will be less crowded first thing in the morning.
It was a good decision on both counts. We arrive at 9 am, don’t actually have to wait at all and the number of other people inside is tolerable.
We take a wander round the garden, which is full of hundreds of species of cacti and exotic plants interspersed with pergolas and water features. In the centre is Majorelle’s studio, painted an electric ‘Majorelle Blue‘.
Pierre Bergé Museum of Berber Arts
Majorelle’s psychedelic blue studio is now the Pierre Bergé Museum of Berber Arts. Set up by and named after Yves Saint Laurent’s partner, the museum was founded to preserve elements of the Berber culture.
First, we walk past a series of artwork by Yves Saint Laurent; ‘The Four Seasons’ and his ‘Love’ collection, which he produced annually going back to 1970.
Inside the museum are photographs, clothes and many other items. However, pride of place goes to a jewellery display in an octagonal (maybe more sides) room lined with mirrors with a ceiling full of many mini lights. It’s like entering an infinite universe of jewellery. Photography is prohibited in the museum, so here is a picture I found on the internet.
Back outside, things have really cranked up a notch and it has turned into tour group hell. There are people everywhere, all trying to take photos and getting angry at other people getting in their way. As if to add to the general commotion, the toads in the water features have joined in and are now croaking away loudly.
We take one more circuit of the garden. Things come to a head at the Yves Saint Laurent Memorial. The path is completely blocked by a lady lying across the floor shouting at passers by who get in the way as she tries to photograph her friend posing in front of the memorial. We decide we’ve had enough of the Jardin Majorelle and, after the obligatory purchase of a postcard (it’s a very expensive post card, but it comes in a fancy Majorelle Blue envelope) we depart.
Note: Adjoining the garden is the Yves Saint Laurent Museum, which contains some of the famous fashion designer’s sketches and designs. If you want to visit the museum, avoid Wednesday and purchase a combined ticket. But if you just want to just visit the garden, Wednesday is the least busy day due to the museum being shut.
- The Jardin Majorelle is open daily from 8 am until 6.30 pm.
- The Pierre Bergé Museum of Berber Arts is open daily from 8:30 am until 6 pm.
- The Yves Saint Laurent Museum is open daily except Wednesdays from 10 am until 6.30 pm.
- Entry to the Jardin Majorelle costs 170 dirham.
- Entry to the Jardin Majorelle and Berber Museum costs 230 dirham.
- A combined ticket including the museum costs 330 dirham.
Medersa Ben Youssef
We catch a taxi back to the Medina. The old man is very proud of himself as he manages to knock a full 10 dirhams off the price. The driver explains that he can only take us to within a 5 minute walk of the museum and gives us detailed direction on the route to follow from the drop off point.
We are heading for the recently refurbished, beautifully ornate 14th Century Medersa Ben Youssef. As non Muslims are not allowed to enter the mosques of Marrakech, this decommissioned school is a rare opportunity for us infidels to see the ornate interior of a religious building. Like many buildings in Marrakech, the Medersa is build around a central courtyard with a pool in the middle.
You can climb to the small rooms on the second floor for a bird’s eye view of the ornate courtyard.
The Medersa is open daily from 9 am until 7 pm (6 pm during Ramadan). Entry for foreigners costs 50 dirham.
Marrakech Museum
Last on today’s list is the Marrakech Museum. I have read mixed reviews about the museum, which consists of exhibits inside a former palace with a courtyard decorated with tiles and stained glass. The general consensus seems to be that the displays aren’t up to much, but the building is pretty cool.
Either way, entry is 50 dirham each, we only have 70 dirham left and there isn’t a cashpoint to be found anywhere. After one more circumnavigation of the nearby square and the roads leading off it unsuccessfully attempting to locate a cashpoint, the old man suggests that he waits outside while I go in alone.
The museum is as I’d expected; rather naff but in a beautiful building. I don’t stay too long, just wander round the main courtyard and look at some of the art in the side rooms. Then I attempt to relocate the old man. There are no benches nearby and I finally find him sitting on a step in an alleyway playing Candy Crush.
The museum is open daily from 9.30 am until 6 pm. Entry now costs 70 dirham.
Shopping at the Souk
We walk back to our hotel, stopping in the Souk to buy a few souvenirs. In this labrynth of shops, you can purchase pretty much anything you can imagine. We stick to a fridge magnet and a cuddly camel.
Dinner at Chez Brahim
We briefly consider being adventurous and trying somewhere new for dinner. However, Chez Brahim is close, has good reviews and we enjoyed last night’s meal. So we decide to return there again. This time, we go a little earlier, before the kitchen closes for its evening break.
We opt again for the set 3 course meal. Today, as it’s technically still lunch time, 3 courses is only 100 dirham (around £8). The old man goes for another tagine, while I have briwats, which are similar to Indian samosas, but with a different spice combination.
And that is the end of our final evening in Marrakech. It has been interesting, but I think 3 days in the medina was probably enough. I have found the crowded confines of the old town to be rather claustrophobic. And I’m pretty much over constantly having to jump out of the way of motor cycles. We walk back to the Riad past the many cats who live in the labyrinth of alleyways.
- Trip taken: November 2022
- Updated: August 2025
I hope you found the above information useful. For guides to more destinations in the 50+ countries we have visited, check out my full list of Independent Travel Itineraries here.
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