We spent 3 days in Albania on our Balkan Road Trip, entering the country from North Macedonia and heading for the capital, Tirana. From here, we visited the coast at Durrës, then continued north to Shkodër to see the spectacular Rozafa Castle, before crossing the border into Montenegro.
Having studied East European Studies at University, I’ve long been intrigued with Albania. This small country in south Eastern Europe, which kept itself isolated for so many years, is now easily reached by air, ferry or land from across Europe. Prior to visiting, most of what I knew about Albania came from a project I did at university in 1986, so I wasn’t not really sure what to expect. It turned out to be a fascinating place to spend a few days.
Albania 3 Day Road Trip Itinerary
| Day 1 | Tirana Drive to Tirana Bunk’Art 1 Dajti Ekspres Accommodation – Dinasty Hotel Dinner at Era Blloku Postbllok |
| Day 2 | Tirana Pyramid National Gallery National History Museum Skanderbeg Square Orthodox Cathedral |
| Day 3 | Tirana Lake Durrës Drive to Durrës Durrës Archaeological Museum Vollga Promenade Durrës Amphitheatre Venetian Tower Shkodër Accommodation – Red Bricks Hotel Rozafa Castle Downtown Shkodër Dinner at San Francisco |
Day 1 – Tirana
I have been looking forward to today; we are going to Albania. Most of what I know about Albania comes from a project I did at university in 1986, so I’m not really sure what to expect.
Drive to Tirana
Today’s journey takes us along the north shore of Lake Ohrid to the Albanian border and on to Tirana.
When I was planning this trip, it was hard to find information about taking a hire car across seven borders. However, Hertz have made it very easy. The ‘green card’ was included in the price and we have a wallet full of documents verifying the vehicle’s credentials and permission to take it abroad. The border crossing is easy and we are soon in Albania, zigzagging down the mountains witnessing a combination of spectacular scenery and insane driving.
Bunk’Art 1
We stop on the outskirts of Tirana at Bunk’Art 1. Former president Hoxha was obsessed with building bunkers to defend his population from an attack from the West. In Tirana, his personal bunker is now a museum.
Google Maps excels itself en route. First, it takes us along what is allegedly a road, into a gated compound where we are promptly surrounded by security guards. Next, we are sent down a narrow gravel path the width of the car. By the time we reach Bunk’Art, nerves are somewhat frazzled, not helped by the fact that the temperature has reached 31 degrees.
It is a relief to be in the cool of a nuclear bunker. Bunk’Art 1 is part museum, telling the Story of Albania’s communist past, and part art gallery, with a range of topical installations. One exhibit depicting a child going to school to combat illiteracy, is so scary it looks like a scene from Bride of Chucky. The old man swears it moved while I photographed it.
Dajti Ekspres
Before continuing to Tirana, we take a ride on the Dajti Express; an 18 minute cable car ride over a lake and a valley and finally up the side of a cliff to a park in Mount Dajti. The views are stunning but it’s not a ride for the faint hearted.
There are various activities available at the top, such as mini golf, a restaurant and an adventure park.
Accommodation – Dinasty Hotel
We continue to Tirana, check into our accommodation; Dinasty Hotel, We chose it because it is fairly central, but also has free parking. The rooms are clean, comfortable and rather grand. The hotel has has taken the dynastic theme and run with it. I can even enjoy pre dinner drinks sitting on my own throne.
Dinner at Era
Then we go in search of dinner and the obligatory local beer. We end up at Era, where the food is amazing, although the size of the starter floors me before the main course even arrives.
Blloku
We round off the evening with a wander round Blloku; a block once only accessible to senior party officials. Among the trendy bars and restaurants stands Hoxha’s former villa, which lies empty as if no one really knows what to do with it. There are plans to open it to the public.
Postbllok
On the corner where the checkpoint controlling entry to this elite area once stood is Postbllok; a collection of the relics of communism comprising a bunker, part of a labour camp and a chunk of The Berlin Wall. After a quick bunker recce, we head back through the park to our hotel. It has been an interesting first day in Albania.
Day 2 – Tirana
We get up and have breakfast at the substantial breakfast buffet. The chef has gone to the effort of writing the hotel’s name in sauce on my plate.
The old man is usually the master of the all-you-can-eat buffet, but today he meets his match. An elderly lady opposite our table manages six plates to his three. He says this is an unfair comparison as she poured the entire first plateful into her handbag. I am keen to stay and see if she can manage a 7th, but beat a hasty retreat when she starts stirring Nutella into her tea.
We depart for a full day sightseeing in Tirana. Most points of interest are on Boulevard Deshmoret e Kombit; a wide, tree lined street which runs between two squares – Mother Teresa Square and Skanderbeg Square.
Pyramid
Our first stop is the Pyramid. This hideous carbuncle was designed by Hoxha’s daughter as a memorial to his legacy. When we visited, it lay derelict and decaying while its future is debated.
My guide book says that children enjoy climbing the pyramid and sliding down its sides. The old man is determined to give it a try. It’s not a pretty sight, but at least he doesn’t get stuck.
Note: Since our visit, the Pyramid has been redeveloped and is now a cultural hub. It is now possible to climb to the top via stairs, rather than in this rather undignified manner.
National Gallery
Next, we visit the National Gallery. It has some great socialist realist art. In front of the gallery is a large white installation; Reja (The Cloud) which you can climb into for the obligatory selfie.
Photography is prohibited, but the guard is a smoker. So I manage to photograph almost the entire collection during his cigarette breaks.
There’s also an interesting collection of old communist statues out the back.
Note: The National Gallery is currently closed for refurbishment.
National History Museum
We continue to the National History Museum, which documents Albania’s history from the Stone Age onwards. Unfortunately, shortly after the Roman invasion, the English subtitles cease. From here, if (like us) you can’t read Albanian, it’s just a random collection of stuff, until we reach the post-war era and the subtitles reappear.
We add to our run of scary doll encounters with a collection of costume dolls.
Skanderbeg Square
Back outside, we find ourselves in the enormous Skanderbeg Square, which isn’t sure if it’s a pedestrian plaza or a fountain, with water pouring out of vents between the marble tiles onto the feet of passers-by.
Orthodox Cathedral
We return along the boulevard, taking in the usual city sights; a mosque, theatre, opera, the city’s name in big letters and the Orthodox Cathedral. This ultra modern cathedral is one of the largest churches in the Balkans. Its separate bell tower, at 46 metres high, looms over the cathedral.
Finally, we are defeated by the heat and retire to our hotel room. We stop en route to buy ‘vegetarian’ sandwiches, which turn out to be a combination of feta, roast courgette and aubergine. This backs up my theory that aubergine is tasty as long as it is heavily outnumbered by cheese.
Day 3 – Durrës and Shkodër
Tirana Lake
I start the day with a run round Tirana Lake; an artificial lake in the heart of the city with a footpath round it. The receptionist explains it is easy to reach, just over the hill at the end of the road. The hill isn’t very big but it’s steep and there doesn’t appear to be a path so I scrabble up the bank into the park.
It’s a lovely scenic run with the lake in the foreground and a backdrop of mountains. The lake looks like the designer used a paint splatter as a template, so even though it isn’t that big, a run round the edges is 6 km (it would make a great parkrun). Just before I finish my loop, I find the exit, which has steps and a ramp. My undignified clamber up the hillside was unnecessary.
Drive to Durrës
Today, we start by heading west to the port of Durrës, on the Adriatic coast. It’s an easy 40 minute drive along the motorway, complicated only by the fact that we mistake the port entry for the road into town and have to either reverse onto a roundabout or catch a ferry to Italy. Luckily, Albanian drivers are crazy and reversing onto a roundabout is a perfectly acceptable manoeuvre.
The port city of Durrës is on the Adriatic coast just 23 miles west of the capital, Tirana. It is a fascinating place to visit. The city can trace its history back 2,500 years. Walk for less than a mile and you will see a Roman amphitheatre, a Byzantine chapel, an Illyrian city wall, a Venetian tower and a Soviet war memorial.
Durrës Archaeological Museum
We choose to start at Durrës Archaeological Museum. The entry costs 600 Leke. The old man hands over a 1000 note. The cashier says she can’t change it. We think she means she has no change. It’s not until he attempts to use the same note in a shop, that the shop assistant points out it is 1000 Macedonian denar.
We make a second attempt to visit the museum, which contains a collection of artifacts, from Greek to Roman, discovered in the region.
Note: The Archaeological Museum is temporarily closed for renovation.
Vollga Promenade
In front of the museum, and running along the seafront for the length of the city, is Vollga Promenade; a popular place to take a stroll. It is lined with parks and public art, hotels, cafes, restaurants, discos and fairground rides.
Durrës Amphitheatre
Next, we visit the Roman Durrës Amphitheatre. The 2nd Century Roman amphitheatre now sits rather incongruously surrounded by modern houses.
Also with in the amphitheatre complex is a Byzantine Temple with much of its intricate mosaic work still intact.
Venetian Tower
Just time to see the Venetian Tower, which was an extension of the 5th Century Byzantine fortress.
When we visited, it was home to a fancy restaurant. We’re cheapskates, so opted instead to pick up a few supplies at the supermarket for a beachside picnic before setting off along the motorway to Shkodër.
Note: Shortly after we visited, the tower was damaged by an earthquake and is currently undergoing restoration. It is planned to reopen the tower as a digital heritage interpretation centre.
Accommodation – Red Bricks Hotel
A 70 mile drive up to motorway brings us to Shkodër. We head first to our accommodation; Red Bricks Hotel, which is a very nice hotel within walking distance of downtown.
Rozafa Fortress
After a little time to regroup, we set forth for Rozafa Fortress, a huge Illyrian castle on the hillside overlooking Lake Shkodër.
The climb up the hill in 33 degree heat is brutal, but the view across the lake and mountains is worth it.
Downtown Shkodër
We round the day off with a walk through Downtown Shkodër, which has a pleasant pedestrian precinct.
Ebu Bekr Mosque
The Grand Ebu Bekr Mosque was built in 195 and can hold 1300 worshippers.
Dinner at San Francisco
We have a really delicious dinner in a local restaurant; San Francisco, with Albanian wine and lamb baked in yogurt. All enjoyed on a balcony overlooking the town and mosque.
We have really enjoyed our time in Albania. Next stop Montenegro…
- Trip taken: September 2018
- Updated: January 2025
I hope you found the above information useful. For guides to more destinations in the 50+ countries we have visited, check out my full list of Independent Travel Itineraries here.
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