Jane's Midlife Journey

Look across the bay from Bournemouth and you will see Old Harry; a limestone rock formation which stands just off the Isle of Purbeck marking the end of the Jurassic Coast. Old Harry, and the remains of his wife, who collapsed in 1896, form one of Dorset’s most famous landmarks. The rocks are about a mile from the village of Studland and make for a pleasant hike along part of the SW Coast Path, with spectacular views along the way.

How to get to Studland

By road, there are two ways to reach Studland from Bournemouth. The first is to drive round Poole Harbour. This route is 24 miles and should take approximately 45 minutes to drive. The shorter option is to drive to Sandbanks, then take the ferry across the mouth of Poole Harbour and continue to Studland. This is much shorter, only 8 miles, and should also take around 45 minutes, depending on how long you have to wait for the ferry.

Sandbanks Ferry

The Sandbanks Ferry is a chainlink ferry which operates daily between 7 am and 11 pm, running every 20 minutes. It’s a very quick trip, it only takes a few minutes, but it’s quite fun crossing the harbour amidst all the yachts and pleasure boats. A crossing costs £5.20 (charged each way) for a car and £1 for a pedestrian or cyclist (only charged in one direction).

Breezer Bus

The most fun way to reach Studland from Bournemouth is on the Purbeck Breezer 50. This open top bus departs from Bournemouth approximately every 30 to 60 minutes (depending on the season) for the scenic drive to along the coast and across the Purbecks to Studland. A one day Dayrider Ticket costs £10.50 and can be used on any bus on the Morebus network. A single trip costs £2. The bus should take 46 minutes (it doesn’t have to queue for the ferry) to reach Beach Road, which is a short walk from the start of the trail.

Parking

Studland Bay is managed by the National Trust, who operate the car parks around the village. The most convenient car par to walk to Old Harry is South Beach Car Park. Parking costs £5 for two hours (free to National Trust members).

Price

There is no entry fee once you have paid for parking.

History of Old Harry

The chalk of Old Harry Rocks used to be part of a long stretch of chalk which ran from Purbeck to the Isle of Wight. As the rocks were eroded by the sea, first caves, then arches formed. Over time, he tops of the arches weakened and collapsed, leaving disconnected stacks. One of these stacks is as Old Harry. You can just see a stump of what remains of Old Harry’s Wife.

According to legend, the rock gets its name from the pirate Harry Paye; an infamous Poole pirate, who would hide his ship hid behind the rocks awaiting passing ships to plunder.

Hiking to Old Harry

There are two ways to walk to Old Harry; you can take the path there and back (obviously) or follow a ‘circular’ coastal trail from Studland to Old Harry, then continue along the coast before turning and walking back to Studland along the road. If you choose this route, the distance is around 3.5 miles, whereas out-and-back is roughly 2 miles.

Circular Route

1. From South Beach Car Park, turn right and walk down Manor Road past the Bankes Arms.
2. Turn left by the Public Toilets onto the path signed for Old Harry.
3. Follow the path until you reach Old Harry.
4. Once you have taken sufficient photos, continue along the coast path.
5. At the first gate, keep to the cliff top path.
6. Go through a farm gate and head straight on along Ballard Down.
7. When you reach a junction with a signpost and a stone bench, turn right and head down the hill towards Studland.
8. Walk along the road through the Glebeland Estate.
9. Go straight on at the crossroads, following the sign for the church.
10. At the end of the lane, go through the gate into the churchyard.
11. Pass the church on your right, then turn immediately right and follow the footpath back to the car park.

Studland Village

The tiny village of Studland with a population of just 400 people is close to the start of the 630 mile long SW Coast path. It has a Norman church, 16th Century pub and Stone Cross, but is probably best known for its nudist beach.

Village cross

As you walk back into the village, you will pass the Village Cross, which was erected in 1976 and carved with both modern and ancient Celtic symbols.

St Nicholas’ Church

In the village, you will pass St. Nicholas’ Church; a 1000 year old Norman church built on the site of an earlier Saxon building, which was destroyed by the Vikings in the 9th Century.

Food & Drink

The Bankes Arms

The Bankes Arms is a 16th Century pub which look like it just jumped off the lid of a chocolate box. To be honest, I’ve never eaten here because its popularity means there’s often a queue. Across the road is a large beer garden with great sea views. The pub brews its own beer next door in the Isle of Purbeck Brewery and offers a typical pub grub style menu.

The Pig on the Beach

The Pig on the Beach offers a 25 Mile Menu which focuses on food from its own Kitchen Garden and what is rather pretentiously described as ‘Sea Foraged Food’. A portion of fish & chips will set you back £37, so I’ve never eaten here either. There is the option to dine on a terrace overlooking the sea. During the summer, there is a Wood Oven on the terrace which sells pizza, salad and ice cream.

Manor Farm Tea Room

Manor Far Tea Room is, as the name implies, on a farm. Here, you will find the sort of are you’d expect from a tea room; drinks, sandwiches, cakes and and cream teas. You can eat inside or in a courtyard. The tea room is open seasonally.

Old Harry Bar

Old Harry Bar is located inside Studland Social Club. Food-wise, it specialises in pizzas.

Studland Stores

My top pick for the best Old Harry dining experience; pick up some supplies from Studland Stores and have a picnic along the way.

Studland for Children

Although the terrain is fairly good, it does have some steep sections, so might be a bit much for younger children. There are areas along the cliff top with no fencing, so over enthusiastic children will need to be kept away from the edges. There is a playground in the the village.

I hope you found this information useful. For more inspiration on things to do in and around Bournemouth, check out my 101 Things to do in Bournemouth here.

• Updated: September 2023