We spent a week in Nice, on the French Côte d’Azur, combining a holiday with watching my daughter compete in Nice Ironman. Below, is the touristy part of our itinerary, with the remaining days being taken up with Ironman activities.
How to get to Nice
We flew from the UK (Bristol) to Nice. Nice Côte d’Azur Airport is 5 miles south west of the old town. There is a regular tram service from the airport into the city. Nice airport is well connected with flights from all over Europe as well as the US, Canada, the Middle East and North Africa. It is also possible to travel by train via the TGV from Paris, or various other European destinations.
Getting around Nice
Nice is a pretty city overlooking the Mediterranean with a plethora of parks and plenty of public art. So it is a pleasant place to explore by foot. If this is too much or you want to explore further afield, there is an extensive public transport system. There are two tram lines; Line 2 runs east to west from the airport to the port. And Line 1 forms a U shape around the city centre, intersecting with L2 in two locations (Jean Médecin and Garibaldi).
In addition, there are a tourist bus hop-on-hop-off bus and a land train which stop at the main tourist attractions.
Where to stay in Nice
There are plenty of hotels lining the promenade. As we travelled in a group, we opted to stay in an apartment; Résidence Rauba Capeu, which overlooks the port.
Nice in 4 Days Itinerary
| Flight to Nice Accommodation – Résidence Rauba Capeu | |
| Day 1 | Vieux Nice # I Love Nice Sign Colline du Château Cours Saleya Markets Jardin Albert 1er Picnic in the Park Place Masséna Promenade du Paillon Dinner from Deli Bowl |
| Day 2 | Monaco Train to Monte Carlo Casino de Monte Carlo Jardin d’Acclimatation Auditorium Rainier III Port Hercule Stade Nautique Rainier III Monaco Grand Prix Le Rocher Prince’s Palace Dinner from Helios |
| Day 3 | Beach and Port Plage des Ponchettes Port Lympia Place Garibaldi Dinner at La Shounga |
| Day 4 | Promenade Promenade des Anglais La Chaise Bleue Le Negresco Picnic on the Prom |
Flight to Nice
The flight from London to Nice takes 2 hours. We flew from Bristol, which is marginally longer. Nice Cote d’Azur Airport is located 4 miles south west of the old town, at the end of the Promenade des Anglais. It has two terminals, each with a tram stop directly outside. The tram (L2) runs approximately every 8 minutes and takes around 28 minutes to get to the old town (Garibaldi/Le Chateau). A return ticket costs €10.
Note: Most tram rides cost €1.70, with the airport being the exception. The tram between the airport terminals and Grand Arénas is free, so you could theoretically get into town cheaper. But it sounded like too much faff to save a few euros, so we bought the Aero ticket. You need to purchase a ticket from the machine on the platform and validate it when you enter the tram.
Accommodation – Résidence Rauba Capeu
The Nice coast is lined with hotels and other accommodation. We stayed in an apartment overlooking Port Lympia; Résidence Rauba Capeu. The two bedroom apartment has a kitchen, bathroom and living room with a small balcony to observe the comings and goings in the port down below, which can become quite addictive!
Nice Day 1 – Vieux Nice
Today, we start by taking a walk around the old town – Vieux Nice. The walk totals around 3 miles and is mostly flat (if you take the lift up the Colline du Château).
# I Love Nice Sign
First stop, an obligatory photo op in front of the # I love Nice Sign, with the promenade and the stunning azul blue of the Mediterranean spreading out behind.
The sign is usually blue, white and red. However, when we visited, it had been painted yellow to mark the arrival of the final stage of the Tour de France. For the first time in the race’s 121 year history, the tour finished somewhere other than Paris, as the capital geared up for the 2024 Olympics.
Colline du Château
There is no longer a château on the Colline du Château (Castle Hill), this was razed at the command of Louis XIV in 1706. Instead, the area is now a park overlooking the city. You can reach the top by climbing a series of stairs. Alternatively, there is a free lift (L’Ascenseur du Château) just across the road from the # I Love Nice Sign.
From the top, there is a spectacular view across the city and Mediterranean.
In addition to the viewpoints, the park also has an artificial waterfall and a popular children’s play area.
Cours Saleya Markets
Just inland from the promenade, you will find the Cours Saleya Markets. Technically, there are two markets; flowers and food. But it’s equally a great place for souvenir shopping with soaps, lavender and all sorts of other gifts. It is a wonderful place to wander round, enjoying the sights and aromas of fresh bread, fruit and spices mingling with scent of the flowers. Fruit is sold not only complete, but also chopped and ready to eat.
The markets are open every morning with the exception of Monday, when there is a flea market here instead.
Jardin Albert 1er
Designed in the 19th Century, the Jardin Albert 1er is one of Nice’s oldest public gardens. It links the Promenade with the old town. There is a lawn surrounded by palm trees and flower beds, fountains and a carousel. Apparently, it even has a refreshing mist that puffs up from the ground to cool passers-by on sunny days. The park hosts various festivals during the summer. When we visited, it contained the Ironman Expo.
Picnic in the Park
Pick up lunch in the market or at one of the many bakeries in the old town for a picnic in the park. We bought delicious tomato tarts from Boulangerie Jeannot and chunks of water melon from the market.
Place Masséna
Place Masséna is a grand 19th Century city square.
Fontaine du Soleil
One one side of the square is the Fontaine du Soleil, with a statue of Apollo surrounded by five bronze horses.
Promenade du Paillon
The Promenade du Paillon is a linear park which runs for around half a mile along the northern edge of the old town. It has fountains, playgrounds and public art.
Fontaine Miroir d’Eau
At the bottom end is the Fontaine Miroir d’Eau (Water Mirror Fountain). This rectangular area is lined with 128 small fountains, which erupt every 15 minutes, to the great joy of the many children who come to play in the water.
Further up is a playground with some interesting play stations, such as the whale fossil climbing frame.
We wander back through the narrow criss-crossing streets of the old town, lined with shops and restaurants.
Dinner from Deli Bowl
There are numerous restaurants to choose from if you want to dine in the old town. As we were travelling with a baby, who got bored and started eating cigarette butts off the floor before the waiter had even made an appearance, we opted for delivery from Deli Bowl. This Asian fusion restaurant offers a menu which combines the flavours of different Asian countries. In addition to tasty savoury dishes, they have desserts, such as banana spring rolls and apple gyoza.
I had the crispy chicken bowl, which was delicious. Meanwhile, Orla enjoyed trying to get to grips with chopsticks.
Nice Day 2 – Monaco
Today, we are hopping across the (non) border to the neighbouring principality of Monaco.
Train to Monte Carlo
The train from Nice to Monte Carlo only takes 22 minutes. However, when we visited, it was mega packed, so it wasn’t a very pleasant 22 minutes. Trains run very regularly, with frequency depending on the time of day. Trains depart from Nice Ville Station, to the north of the old town. Although we opted to board at the next stop, Nice Riquier.
At the end of the journey is Monaco Monte Carlo Station. The station, like the entire railway line through the principality, is underground.
Casino de Monte Carlo
Monaco’s most famous attraction is the Casino de Monte Carlo. The casino is a 10 minute walk from the station. It is well sign posted, but it doesn’t really matter, because pretty much everyone getting off the train is headed there. The casino building is reached via a large, exotic garden; Jardin du Casino, complete with exotic plants, fountains and sculptures.
Monaco may have a prince, but here, money is king. Even the sculptures around the garden have price tags on them. Below, is Reina Marina Blue (€800,00 – €1,200,000).
At the end of the garden, overlooking the sea and surrounded by high end sports cars is the Casino de Monte Carlo, Monaco’s world famous marble and gold casino.
The casino is open to the public in the morning for self guided tours. After this, the gambling commences. If you don’t want to fork out for a tour, you can still enter the opulent marble foyer and gawk at how the other 1 per cent live. When we visited, there was even a bejewelled Ferrari on display.
The casino is open for tours from 10 am until 1 pm. Gaming commences at 2 pm. Self guided tours cost €20.
Jardin d’Acclimatation
From the rear of the casino, take a walk through the Jardin d’Acclimatation with its exotic plants and sculptures, towards the Yacht Club.
Auditorium Rainier III
You will pass by the top of the Auditorium Rainier III. This building overlooking the sea, with its unique multi-coloured roof, is home to the Monte Carlo Philharmonic Orchestra.
Port Hercule
Take the Yacht Club public lift and continue along the harbourside on the Quai des Etats-Unis towards Port Hercule. Monaco’s port dates back to 6th Century BC, when it was colonised by the Greeks, who gave the port its name. Nowadays, it is the home of many a super yacht.
Stade Nautique Rainier III
Just inland from the port is an outdoor swimming pool, the Stade Nautique Rainier III. For anyone who has watched the Monaco Grand Prix, the pool gives its name to a chicane which has seen much action over the years.
The swimming pool is open most days between May and October (it is closed during the Grand Prix). Entry costs €12 for foreign adults (€9 for children).
Monaco Grand Prix
If you’re an F1 fan (or even if you’re not), there is evidence of the iconic Monaco Grand Prix all around you. From the street furniture to the souvenir shops and motor racing related sculptures. If you’re a fan, you can follow the road which makes up the track, spotting the famous landmarks. Exit the rear of the casino via the lift inside the yacht club, which will bring you into the Tunnel. From here, you can follow the track round the marina, via Tabac and Swimming Pool, before turning towards the castle by La Rascasse.
Dotted around the course, you will find sculptures of famous racing drivers synonymous with Monaco, such as William Grover-Williams, who won the inaugural event in 1929, before becoming a British spy and being executed by the Nazis during WW2.
Wander through the streets of the Old Town, which are lined with shops and restaurants overlooked by the imposing rock or Le Rocher. You may choose to stop here for lunch. We opted to be more budget conscious and purchased picnic supplies from a Carrefour supermarket.
Le Rocher
From the old town, you can follow the staircase up the side of Le Rocher; a pistol-shaped rock, overlooking the sea.
The view from the top is worth the climb, as you can see right across the principality and beyond, with the port and the Formula 1 pit lane in the foreground.
Prince’s Palace
Sitting atop Le Rocher is the 13th Century, Prince’s Palace, the private residence of the ruling Grimaldi family. The palace is protected by the Carabiniers du Prince. There is a ceremonial Changing of the Guard daily at 11.55 am, which crowds gather outside the gates to watch.
Most of the palace is off limits, but you can get a glimpse of royal life on a tour of the State Apartments, where you can see some of the furniture and artworks collected by the family over the years. The apartments are open daily between April and October from 10 am until 5 pm (6 pm in July/August). Entry costs €10.
Dinner from Helios
Monaco is super expensive, so if you want to protect your budget, return to Nice in time for dinner. We opted for delivery from Restaurant Helios, which was very tasty.
Nice Day 3 – Beach and Port
Today, time for some beach time. The Nice coast is divided into zones, with some private and some public beaches. To be honest, the beaches aren’t great; there is no sand and the pebbles are difficult to walk on and uncomfortable to sit on. In addition, there is a very steep drop into the sea, making entering the water difficult and painful, as the waves lash you with pebbles while you clamber up or down the bank.
Plage des Ponchettes
We opted for a public beach; the furthest east of Nice’s public beaches, Plage des Ponchettes.
Coming from Bournemouth, Orla was rather bemused by a beach covered in stones instead of sand…
If you opt to pay to access a private beach, there may be carpets and chains to facilitate water access. And you can hire a sun bed to increase your comfort.
Port Lympia
In the evening, we take a stroll around Port Lympia, Nice’s port is lined with bars and restaurants on one side and yachts on the other. You can take a wander or sit at a pavement cafe to admire the super yachts of the rich and famous moored along the quayside.
Place Garibaldi
The Place Garibaldi is a pretty square with a fountain, trees, shady benches and a large blue lion sculpture. The origins of the square date back to the 18th Century. The square is named after Nice born Italian military hero Giuseppe Garibaldi.
On the third Saturday of the month, there is a nice flea market in the square.
Dinner at La Shounga
There are plenty of restaurants in the port area where you can dine with a view of the Mediterranean. We opted for La Shounga, which sells platters and tapas and also excellent mojitos.
Nice Day 4 – Promenade
Promenade des Anglais
The Promenade des Anglais is Nice’s iconic prom, which runs along the coast from the old town to the airport. The promenade also runs to the east of the old town towards the port, but this is called the Quai des États-Unis.
The Promenade provides a pleasant stroll overlooking the beach and the azul blue Mediterranean. Adjacent to the pedestrian promenade are a bike lane and a road. The opposite side of the road is lined with bars, restaurants and hotels. If you’re crazy, you can even opt to run up and down the length of the Promenade four times as part of Nice Ironman!
La Chaise Bleue
There are a number of sculptures and statues lining the Promenade. The most well known sculpture is La Chaise Bleue (The Blue Chair). The history of the blue chairs dates back to the 1950s, when they were introduced to the Promenade for people to pay to sit on.
Le Negresco
There are several art nouveau hotels near the old town, including Nice’s most famous hotel; the lavish pink 1912 hotel known simply as Le Negresco.
Picnic on the Prom
Pick up supplies from the market or a boulangerie for an al fresco lunch on one of the many benches which line the Promenade.
- Trip taken: June 2024
- Updated: May 2025
I hope you found the above information useful. For guides to more destinations in the 50+ countries we have visited, check out my full list of Independent Travel Itineraries here.
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