We spent a week in Fiji as part of our round the world trip. As we had very full itineraries scheduled for before and after Fiji, this was primarily a week of rest and relaxation, with a light scattering of sightseeing. Fiji is an archipelago of more than 300 islands scattered around the South Pacific. Below is our easy- going itinerary for a week on the country’s main island of Viti Levu.
Fiji 1 Week Itinerary
| Day 1 | Flight to Fiji Accommodation – Wellesley Resort Fiji Dinner at Wellesley Resort Fiji |
| Day 2 | Wellesley Resort Fiji Dinner at Wellesley Resort Fiji |
| Day 3 | Suva Drive to Suva Thurston Gardens Fiji Museum Albert Park Holy Trinity Cathedral Sacred Heart Cathedral The Ivi Triangle Stinson Parade Municipal Handicraft Centre Ratu Sukuna Park Dinner from the Hot Bread Kitchen |
| Day 4 | Pacific Harbour Arts Village Dinner in Pacific Harbour |
| Day 5 | Sigatoka Sigatoka Sand Dunes Sigatoka Town Sigatoka Bridge Dinner in Sigatoka |
| Day 6 | Coral Coast Dinner in Pacific Harbour |
| Day 7 | Drive to Nadi Sri Siva Subramaniya Swami Temple |
Fiji Day 1
Flight to Fiji
The major airport and gateway to the islands of Fiji is Nadi International Airport. Nadi is on the west coast of Viti Levu and is almost on the opposite side of the island to the capital, Suva.
Our flight from Los Angeles to Nadi crosses the International Date Line. We depart the US on Thursday and arrive in Fiji on Saturday. For us, Friday 2nd March does not exist. It’s a weird concept to get your head around. Look at the trouble it caused Phileas Fogg. How will my Garmin cope? It will ruin my daily step average. It’s making my brain hurt. Time for a beer…
We finally arrive in Fiji, literally on the other side of the world. It’s been an epic journey; 6000 miles to the US, then a 6000 mile, 12 hour overnight flight across 20 time zones (not to mention the international date line and the equator). With Fiji Air, packed like sardines, with one round of the drinks trolley and a meagre choice of films. It’s safe to say that we’re a little weary and we still have to collect our luggage and hire car and drive to the hotel.
I may have struggled to get my head round the time zone changes, but we are now definitely on island time. We have to wake the guy at the car rental office up to get served. Then we get an upgrade because he can’t locate our allocated car.
The airport is half way up the west coast and we are staying half way along the south coast, which means a 74 mile drive round the island’s main road; Queen’s Road. Much of the road hugs the Pacific coast, so it’s a very scenic drive.
Accommodation – Wellesley Resort Fiji
For the next week we are staying at the Wellesley Resort Fiji – an adult only resort hotel set in beautifully landscaped gardens overlooking the South Pacific.
We have been informed that to reach our hotel, we must drive down a gravel driveway. They failed to mention that the driveway is 3 miles long! After our off road trek, we reach our destination; a huddle of bungalows in a clearing in the rainforest next to the beach. It’s beautiful but utterly remote. Not the place to stay if you don’t have transport.
Our room isn’t ready, so we try our first Fijian beer and take a walk along the beach while we wait to check in. (Note that since our visit, the resort no longer serves alcohol. Note too that these two events are not connected).
The sand is covered with hundreds of small shells. They’re hermit crabs. It’s a strange sensation when you walk along the beach and it starts moving all around you.
As the day progresses, the beach comes alive in a different way, as the boys from the local village come to practise rugby.
Back at the hotel, our room is ready. There are three types of room at the resort. We have opted for a Pool Room. The room itself is a small hut decorated in traditional Fijian style. It is beautiful and has its own patio with a private pool. After a token dip, we decide to take a nap. We are definitely getting too old for overnight flights.
When we wake up, it’s raining. We’re in a rain forest in rainy season, so this is not altogether unsurprising. But I’m pleased I took my guide book’s advice to stock up on insect repellent, as we are not alone as we sit on the patio enjoying the coolness of the afternoon shower.
Dinner at Wellesley Resort Fiji
Suitably refreshed, we have dinner at the hotel; freshly caught mahi mahi, on the restaurant verandah. As we eat, we watch the sun set over the South Pacific, framed by a large colour-changing neon fish. Welcome to paradise Fijian style.
Fiji Day 2 – Wellesley Resort Fiji
On today’s agenda – nothing. Today is about recharging the batteries, relaxing by the pool and wandering along the shore of the South Pacific.
I wake at dawn when the parrots start to sing in the palm trees. We start the day with breakfast in the hotel restaurant. It’s all local produce. Lots of tropical fruit and fish, which is a luxury after two weeks in the USA where junk food is king. I eat my fruit platter and eggs Benedict whilst contemplating emigrating to Fiji.
We decide to take a long walk along the beach, but the tide is in and there’s not much beach left, so we settle for a short walk and a beer.
This decision is fortuitous, because just as we reach the hotel, the heavens open. I know we’re in the rainforest, so rain is to be expected, but I didn’t know it was possible for so much water to fall out of the sky in one go.
We drink our Fijian beer. I notice in the small print that the brewery is actually owned by Coca-Cola. Then a representative of the hotel’s NZ owner turns up to check on their investment. I wonder how much of the income from tourism in Fiji actually ends up in the pockets of Fijians, rather than multinational/foreign companies?
I had planned to run along the hotel driveway before (a) I realised quite how rough the terrain was and (b) the road turned into a river. So I decide to go for a swim instead. Four hours later it is still raining. We’ve eaten, had a nap, read a book and are rapidly running out of ideas of how to fill our time in a hut in the middle of nowhere in the rain. Six hours later, I give up and go for a swim in the rain. It’s almost dark, but the neon fish shows me the way…
Dinner at Wellesley Resort Fiji
Then we dress for dinner (put on more mosquito repellent) and head back to the hotel restaurant for delicious freshly caught prawns and calamari in a curry sauce, followed by caramelised bananas. All eaten on the verandah, watching the sunset and rugby practice.
Fiji Day 3 – Suva
Today, we are visiting the capital, Suva. Suva has a population of just 101,000. It’s weird to think of a capital city less than half the size of my home town of Bournemouth. Maybe Dorset should become a republic?
Drive to Suva
First, we must brave driving up the hotel’s 3 mile dirt track-come-river driveway to our hotel. From here, it’s a 50 mile drive along Queen’s Road; the main road which circumnavigates the island. Not that far, but the road condition plus speed bumps in each of the villages mean that it’s a two hour drive each way.
Suva is small and easily walkable, although it is likely to be hot. And if you are visiting in the rainy season (November to April), you are highly likely to get wet at some point. To walk my planned route in its entirety is just over 2 miles. However, we opted to park at the museum for the first part of the itinerary, and then on Stinson’s Parade for the second part, thus walking two smaller loops. This way, we weren’t too far from our car when the inevitable deluge hit.
The road hugs the ocean for much of the drive. Scenic to start with, but the closer we get to Suva, the more polluted it becomes with bottles, tyres and all sorts of junk floating along the shore line.
Thurston Gardens
We head first for the Fiji Museum, park up and have a picnic brunch under a tree in Thurston Gardens; botanical gardens in which the museum is located. The Victorian gardens are built on the site of the original town of Suva, which was burned down in 1843, when many of its inhabitants were killed and eaten by the people of neighbouring Rewa.
The gardens are home to a century old Clock Tower and adjoining bandstand, built in 1918 to commemorate the inauguration of the first Mayor of Suva.
Fiji Museum
Fiji Museum has some interesting exhibits; the rudder from The Bounty (the ship made infamous for the mutiny led by Mel Gibson, aka Fletcher Christian) and the sole of the shoe of a Methodist missionary – the only bit of him the islanders didn’t eat!
My personal favourite that essential fashion accessory – the puffer fish hat.
Albert Park
Across the road from Thurston Gardens is Albert Park; a park with various sports pitches, lined with hotels (including the Grand Pacific Hotel) and government buildings (including Fiji’s Parliament). Albert Park is home to the national cricket teams. Claim to fame: Aviator Charles Kingsford Smith made an emergency landing here during the first trans Pacific flight the from the USA to Australia in 1928.
Holy Trinity Cathedral
We start the second half of our tour with a visit the Anglican Holy Trinity Cathedral. It’s a hive of activity – the big boss is in town (not God – the Archbishop of Canterbury). Designed by a government architect on a tight budget in the 1950s, it’s not the prettiest of buildings, but is surrounded by a garden of native plants.
According to my guide book, the cathedral has a unique boat-shaped interior. To be honest, it just looks like the inside of a church.
Sacred Heart Cathedral
Next, the Catholic Sacred Heart Cathedral. This more ornate building took a century to get built; construction began in 1894 and was not completed until 1994. It is made of sandstone shipped from Australia and is one of Suva’s oldest and most prominent buildings.
The interior is ornately decorated with some very impressive stained glass. It has started to rain (again), so entering the cathedral entails running a gauntlet of umbrellas.
Growing in the cathedral grounds is the Tree of Knowledge. How this differs from any other tree, I don’t know. Maybe the Tree of Knowledge could tell me?
The Ivi Triangle
The intersection at the symbolic heart of Suva is called The Ivi Triangle, named after the ancient ivi tree that grows here. Beneath the tree, you will find a marker showing some of Fiji’s notable dates, such as the arrival of the first missionaries and the establishment of the capital.
Stinson Parade
We round off our day in Suva with a stroll along Stinson Parade, which runs for around a kilometre along the sea wall, from the market to the Olympic Pool.
Municipal Handicraft Centre
Running along the northern end of Stinson Parade is the Municipal Handicraft Centre, where you can purchase souvenirs.
Ratu Sukuna Park
Towards the southern end of Stinson Parade, overlooking the harbour, is Ratu Sukuna Park. There are some trees, flower beds and more souvenir vendors.
We drive back to our resort, through a few downpours, but make it back to our room before the mother load hits. When the rain finally stops, there’s just enough time for a swim before the sun sets and we retire to our patio.
Dinner from the Hot Bread Kitchen
We end the day with Fijian beer and excellent chilli chicken pies which we purchased from the Hot Bread Kitchen, which has several outlets around the island, including one in downtown Suva. Rounded off with watching sunset and rugby training on the beach once more.
Fiji Day 4 – Pacific Harbour
Today, we decide to the nearest town, Pacific Harbour, which is 20 miles away. The remoteness of our hotel has induced the owners to charge exorbitant prices for food and drink. So we are going in search of provisions to keep costs down a bit.
Arts Village
Pacific Harbour Arts Village consists of a cultural centre next to a supermarket and a cluster of shops and restaurants, overlooking a small lake festooned with water lilies.
We take a wander round the complex and shop for provisions, then choose one of the restaurants around the lake to order dinner.
Dinner in Pacific Harbour
We have dinner at Water’s Edge, which is indeed on the edge of the water with a lovely view of the lake. The curry, which comes with rice, tamarind chutney, poppadom, chapatti and dhal, is stonkingly good. Sadly, this is one of many restaurants which has closed down since our visit. The Covid pandemic decimated the island’s tourist industry and it is only just starting to recover. However, there are still places to dine around the pretty little lake.
Fiji Day 5 – Sigatoka
It has become apparent that the towels we were issued with on Saturday will not be changed. The humidity is 86% – once something gets wet, it stays wet. I can still see drops dripping from the towel I used after yesterday’s swim. It has put me in a bad mood.
This morning however, an exciting development; for the first time in 5 days, the sun comes out. I’m not sure how to deal with this upturn in events! Sunblock over insect repellent or vice versa? I don my wet costume, collect my wet towel and head for the pool. The decking has been blocked off; a sign says ‘wet paint’. Frankly, it should say ‘wet everything’. I spend the morning swimming and reading. That pretty much covers activities at Wellesley Resort until it’s no longer too early to drink.
Sigatoka Sand Dunes
After a swim, wo we decide to visit the biggest town on the Coral Coast, Sigatoka, renowned for its Sand Dunes.
Sigatoka Sand Dunes form Fiji’s only National Park. We saw an exhibit about the dunes at the Fiji Museum. They are being eroded by the wind. They also contain one of the largest ancient burial sites in the Pacific. Meaning that as the sand recedes, skeletal remains appear.
The dunes are located on the Coral Coast, 30 miles west of our hotel – a straightforward drive along Queens Road. Upon arrival, a very friendly ranger shows us the route map. We opt for the shortest (one hour) loop. It’s a lovely walk over the dunes, across the beach and back through the mahogany forest, which was planted to help slow the erosion of the dunes.
In fact, the mahogany forest is the highlight of our visit. The noise as we enter is tremendous. At first, we think it’s birds, but then realise that the tree tops are home to thousands of bats, hanging upside down stretching their wings in the sun.
Sigatoka Town
We return via Sigatoka Town. It has the usual collection of shops, including an excellent produce market, where we purchase some fresh fruit for lunch.
After a visit to a supermarket and a couple of souvenir shops for essentials and less essentials, we take a wander round town.
Sigatoka Bridge
Jutting out into the Sigatoka River is the century old Sigatoka Bridge. Since being partially destroyed by flooding, the derelict bridge may no longer span the entire river, but it still holds the title of ‘most photographed bridge in the South Pacific’.
Dinner in Sigatoka
We have dinner in a seafood restaurant recommended by Lonely Planet. It’s completely empty, which is not surprising bearing in mind how difficult it was to find. Which is a shame, because it’s in a great spot overlooking a bay with the waves breaking on the coral in the background.
We order food which takes an age to arrive. 45 minutes later our dhal soup and fish curry arrive. It’s essentially the same thing only one has bits of fish and cucumber added. In an ironic twist, the food took longer to cook than it takes to make a sudden and not altogether expected reemergence! Obviously I wouldn’t recommend this restaurant, but it’s irrelevant anyway as it has subsequently closed.
Fiji Day 6 – Coral Coast
Today, we decide to remain on the Coral Coast, close to our resort. There are roadworks on the driveway. Yesterday, we got stuck behind a convoy of vehicles attempting to add and flatten gravel and it took almost an hour to cover the 3 miles to the road.
First, I go for a run. I’m not looking forward to it. The climate and terrain will make it tough. There are also a lot of men wandering round brandishing machetes. I suspect they’re harvesting coconuts, but I’ve been to the Fiji Museum and seen what they used to do with Methodists and it involves a large pot and some salt and pepper. It won’t be a long run – I remember going to aerobics in Nigeria – once I have sweated off the insect repellent, I will be eaten alive, if not by cannibals them by mosquitoes.
I start by running along the beach, but soon decide that running on sand is too much effort and opt instead for the track out of the valley. It’s steep and try as I might, my Strava (which is set on auto pause) pauses as it decides I am not actually moving. It has a point. Once at the top, I manage a reasonable 3 mile run. I also get rewarded with a stunning view back over the bay. The noise from the rainforest is carried on the ocean breeze – a cacophony of insects and birds singing.
After my run, I eat breakfast; bananas from the market in Sigatoka, which weirdly doubled in price when I told her I only wanted half a bunch. Tree ripened bananas taste so different to the tasteless yellow blobs we get at home.
Then I head for the pool to make the most of the rain intermission. The staff bring the cushions out and unwrap the parasols. This is a good omen – the first time either of these two events have been risked in six days.
The old man makes heads for the dive shop at the hotel next door, in the hope that he will be able to book a diving tour to the coral reef. It is his third time of trying – they will not run the tour with less that four people. He does not return. Of course at his age, I cannot rule out the possibility that he has got confused and wandered off, but it looks as if his dive has actually gone ahead.
I have a relaxing day swimming, reading and sunbathing. I figure I’ve probably had enough sun when my iPhone tells me it needs to cool down! Lunch is tuna with avocado from the market. Again it’s sweet and juicy and delicious, not like the green bullets we have to make do with in the UK.
The old man returns content from his dive having seen lots of marine life. We are out of beer. A debate ensues; to drive to Pacific Harbour to go shopping or not? It’s a 42 mile round trip. The answer, when you factor in the price of resort beer versus supermarket beer, is yes.
Dinner in Pacific Harbour
We have dinner at Baka Blues Cafe, which seems to specialise in weird pizza toppings. We are the only customers, yet it takes 62 minutes for our Cajun shrimp pizza to arrive. Ironically, after such a long wait, the base is burned. Unfortunately, this is another restaurant which has closed down since our visit.
One last thunder storm, one last sunset walk along the beach and our wet week in Fiji is at and end.
Fiji Day 7
Drive to Nadi
Today, we depart Fiji for the next leg of our journey. The drive to the airport should take around two hours. But we leave in plenty of time as we want to stop en route.
Sri Siva Subramaniya Swami Temple
The Sri Siva Subramaniya Swami Temple is just off Queen’s Road, 6 miles south of the airport. This brightly coloured Hindu temple, the largest Hindu temple in the Pacific, is covered in elaborate carvings of warriors, kings and gods. Unfortunately, when we visited, it was also covered in scaffolding.
- Trip Taken: March 2018
- Updated: May 2025
I hope you found the above information useful. For guides to more destinations in the 50+ countries we have visited, check out my full list of Independent Travel Itineraries here.
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