We spent two days exploring the southern end of Lake Tahoe, a spectacular alpine lake with crystal clear water. The lake is situated in the Sierra Nevada and sits at 1897 metres above sea level. It is renowned for both its summer and winter ski resorts. Note: Lake Tahoe may have a reputation as a ski resort, but many of the area’s attractions are open seasonally and when we visited in March, pretty much everything was shut. We spent one day in South Lake Tahoe and the second on a drive around the lake’s south and west shoreline.
How to get to Lake Tahoe
We visited Lake Tahoe on our California Road Trip. The lake’s biggest city, South Lake Tahoe, is situated 188 miles north east of San Francisco if you drive direct. Although I recommend driving via the Napa Valley for some wine tasting first. This brings the distance to 208 miles, primarily along the I-80/US-50.
Where to stay in Lake Tahoe
There are plenty of accommodation options around the lake. We went for a budget option and a Motel 6 on the outskirts of South Lake Tahoe, which has subsequently closed down.
Napa in 2 Days Itinerary
| Day 1 | Drive to Lake Tahoe El Dorado National Forest Accommodation – South Lake Tahoe Regan Beach Heavenly Village Dinner at Base Camp Pizza Co Nevada State Line |
| Day 2 | Inspiration Point Emerald Bay State Park Vikingsholm Eagle Falls Picnic at Emerald Bay Tallac Historic Site Kiva Beach Dinner from Curry & Grill |
Lake Tahoe Day 1
Drive to Lake Tahoe
Today, we are driving 140 miles north west from Napa to Lake Tahoe. First up, a delicious Best Western grab & go breakfast; 2 long life muffins, a satsuma and a fluorescent yoghurt!
After our tasty and nutritious breakfast, we set off in the direction of Lake Tahoe. Loading the car takes a while. It’s fair to say that there’s been an over purchase on the snack front (or perhaps an under consumption, depending on your point of view).
El Dorado National Forest
We are soon out of wine country and driving through olive groves and nut trees, past the urban sprawl of Sacramento, onwards and upwards to today’s first stop; El Dorado National Forest. We park by the ranger station – according to the internet, a source of maps and information. It’s closed. The map box outside is empty, but there are some newspapers which contain a very rudimentary map.
We start walking along what appears to be a trail to a waterfall. Pretty soon we reach a ‘keep out’ sign and a lot of smoke and burning wood. Two firemen appear and attempt to give us directions. Each gives very detailed and very different directions. The result, not surprisingly, is that we get lost. The others attempt to walk in the opposite direction. I’m over aimless wandering in the forest and volunteer to guard the car (and the crisps).
We’re parked next to a log flume, which the fireman told us was ‘pretty cool’. It’s actually empty. A fireman, in a forest, lighting fires, with poor knowledge of water sources!
After a delicious lunch (cold cheesy fries and Oreos) in a clearing in the forest, we drive the final 40 miles to South Lake Tahoe. It’s a spectacular drive along the banks of South Fork American River, running parallel to the old Pony Express Trail. As a child, Buffalo Bill used to ride the mail to the gold rush towns along here.
We climb and climb through breathtaking scenery. The road contains several sections of contraflow, where we must drive in convoy following a pilot car, so no opportunity to stop – all the lay-bys are cordoned off. So, we crawl along, cameras hanging out of the windows.
Finally, we reach the summit at 7300 feet and start to descend towards the lake.
Accommodation – South Lake Tahoe
We reach our hotel; the now defunct Motel 6 South Lake Tahoe, which has an unsettlingly large number of bear warnings posted around the grounds.
Regan Beach
After check in, I want to drive the final 2.5 miles to the lake, but the kids have other ideas and determine to walk. I’m far from convinced as we set off and moan (a lot) about it being a long way and America not being equipped for walkers as there are no pavements. Finally, we reach the lake and descend some very snowy steps to Regan Beach. This public beach on the outskirts of South Lake Tahoe is the city’s oldest beach facility.
We attempt to walk along the shore to nearby El Dorado Beach. However, a surprisingly small amount of waterfront is accessible to the public, with plenty of up market properties monopolising the shore line. We edge our way along past private jetties and stairways trying to find another public access point. Eventually, we find one and set off on the walk back to the motel.
Heavenly Village
In the evening, we decide to drive towards the Nevada state line for dinner and end up in the ski resort of Heavenly Village. This a collection of fancy shops and restaurants is clustered around the Heavenly Ski Resort’s Gondola launchpad.
Dinner at Base Camp Pizza Co
We have dinner at Base Camp Pizza Co. I order a pear and Gorgonzola pizza topped with rocket and balsamic vinegar. It’s very tasty, which is good as it’s probably the most expensive pizza I’ve ever eaten. And the suggested tip is 25%. Only in America would it be acceptable to demand $17 just to bring two pizzas from the kitchen to your table!
Nevada State Line
After dinner we walk to the Nevada State Line which has a disappointing lack of state line signage. Just across the line, is a collection of casinos.
We round the evening off with a second attempt to reach the lake, which is all fenced, off so we can’t actually get anywhere near it.
Lake Tahoe Day 2
We survived the night which is a relief as it’s minus 2 degrees outside and daughter No 2 turned the heating off because the noise was bothering her.
Today, we are going for a drive around Lake Tahoe. If you want to drive all the way round the lake, this is a total of 72 miles. We opted to explore the area along the south and west shore; a round trip of around 23 miles.
Inspiration Point
Inspiration Point is a viewpoint overlooking the lake, Fannette Island and Vikingsholm. The car park here is also closed out of season. I don’t understand why you would close the car park to a viewpoint? There are plenty of people stopping anyway, just parking on the road, which is much more dangerous. Nonetheless, it certainly is a spectacular view.
Emerald Bay State Park
After a brief photo stop, we continue to Emerald Bay State Park. Park features include a Scandinavian style lakeside mansion and a waterfall. Park facilities are only open between May and September, although the car park remains open. However, as you need to pay by phone and we don’t have an American SIM, we end up having to park on the road.
Vikingsholm
Here, you can follow a trail to the lake’s edge and Vikingsholm; built in 1929 in a Scandinavian style, this was the home to some wealthy American woman.
The walk to the house is described as a steep one mile trail. There are multiple warnings about not attempting it unless you’re physically fit and confident of being able to make the return ascent. In my mind, I am imagining something way more hard core than the gently sloping road we encounter.
Eagle Falls
From the bottom, we follow another trail to the beautiful Eagle Falls waterfall.
Picnic at Emerald Bay
Then we return to the lake for a picnic lunch, which is very pleasant until we come to the attention of some Canada Geese, who are very keen to join the picnic.
After we have walked back up to the road, we drive back down towards South Lake Tahoe.
Tallac Historic Site
Six miles west of South Lake Tahoe, you can visit the Tallac Historic Site. This too is also only open between May and September. But the car park remains open and you are welcome to wander around the grounds. The site consists of three estates built between 1894 and 1923. We take a walk around the various summer residences of wealthy Americans of the 1920s.
The Baldwin Estate
The land for the Baldwin Estate was originally acquired by tycoon Elias Jackson “Lucky” Baldwin, who developed the once hugely popular Tallac Resort and Hotel. The estate’s main building, which is a Scandinavian log cabin style construction, was built in 1922 for Lucky’s granddaughter, Dextra.
The Pope Estate
The Pope Estate was originally built for Lloyd Tevis, former president of Wells Fargo Bank. The main building is constructed of wood with shingle clad sidings.
Valhalla Estate
Valhalla Estate was built as the summer residence for San Francisco investment banker Walter Heller and his family.
As well as a residence, the property boasts its own theatre on the water’s edge.
Kiva Beach
From Tallac, you can walk along the shore to pretty little Kiva Beach; a short expanse of sand lined by forest.
Dinner from Curry & Grill
Then it’s back to the hotel for a very good curry from Curry and Grill and an early night as we have to be up early tomorrow for the next leg of our journey.
I hope you found the above information useful. For guides to more destinations in the 50+ countries we have visited, check out my full list of Independent Travel Itineraries here.
- Trip taken: March 2023
- Updated: August 2026
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