We spent a week in Sri Lanka during our round the world trip, starting and finishing in the capital, Colombo. In the interim, we took a train up to the tea plantations of the island’s interior, staying at Nuwara Eliya. On the way back, we spent a night in Kandy, primarily to visit the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic, which is said to hold a tooth of the Buddha – one of the most important Buddhist relics.
| Day 1 | Flight to Sri Lanka Negombo |
| Day 2 | Colombo Old Parliament Building Colombo Lighthouse Sambodhi Pagoda Temple Colombo Fort Clock Tower Dutch Hospital Dinner at King Crab Accommodation – Fairway Colombo |
| Day 3 | Nuwara Eliya Colombo Fort Station Train to Nanu-Oya Accommodation – Tea Leaf Retreat Dinner at Tea Leaf Retreat |
| Day 4 | Nuwara Eliya Pedro Tea Estate Lover’s Leap Waterfall Dinner at Indian Summer Lake Gregory |
| Day 5 | Kandy Train to Kandy Accommodation – Radisson Hotel Kandy Kandy Lake Dinner at Kandy Garden Cafe |
| Day 6 | Kandy Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic Kandy Clock Tower Train to Colombo Dinner at Colombo Fort Cafe |
| Day 7 | Colombo Galle Face Green Beira Lake Seema Malakaya Meditation Centre Gangaramaya Park Colombo Lotus Tower Dinner at the Dutch Pub |
Sri Lanka Day 1
Flight to Colombo
We booked flights to Colombo via Singapore, but our first plane was cancelled, meaning a 9 hour layover in Singapore. Finally, after what seems like an eternity, we board our second flight, arriving in Sri Lanka after midnight.
Negombo
Colombo Bandaranaike International Airport is actually 20 miles north of Colombo, close to the coastal city of Negombo. Our initial plan was to spend our first day exploring Negombo with its beach, fort and fish market. But this plan doesn’t materialise partly due to our cancelled flight and partly because in Negombo we end up staying in possibly the worst hotel I’ve ever encountered.
By the time we reach our hotel, Sea Port Hotel, it’s past 1 am and we’ve been travelling for 19 hours. The hotel is disgusting. The a/c doesn’t work, so the room temperature is 31 degrees. The bathroom is filthy and there is brown stuff (the old man tries to convince me it’s cement but we both think otherwise) running down the wall. Worst of all is the smell. The room smells of damp and mould and the bed and bedding stink. In fact the room is so damp, the bedding is actually wet.
There are no staff on duty, only a security guard asleep by the locked front door and we have no WiFi. So we lie on the damp, smelly bed, where I manage 2 hours 45 minutes of sleep, until we can make alternative arrangements.
Obviously, I don’t recommend staying at the Sea Port, but I left this here because when we complained about the hotel the next morning, the receptionist told us that their card reader was broken and we’d have to pay in cash. He subsequently marked us as a ‘no show’ with Booking.com, meaning that we were unable to leave an unfavourable review of our horrible experience. Hence the hotel managed to maintain a 7.3 rating, which is far more than it deserved. Note: The hotel has thankfully now closed down.
Sri Lanka Day 2 – Colombo
We get up from our damp, smelly bed in our hot, smelly room at 7 am, obtain the WiFi code and book another hotel. After a full and frank exchange of views with the receptionist about the state of the hotel, we check out and take a taxi to Colombo.
Once in Colombo, we go for a walk following Lonely Planet’s suggestion for a short stroll. First point on the itinerary is a spot on the seafront to view pelicans perched on poles. It’s actually a huge construction site with no wildlife in sight. As one local puts it; ‘The Chinese have bought the water’.
Old Parliament Building
The grand Old Parliament Building dates from the 1930s and the British Colonial era. It now houses the Presidential Secretariat.
Colombo Lighthouse
On to Colombo Lighthouse, which was built in the 1950s. Now somewhat further inland than it used to be, the lighthouse is constructed on a 12 metre concrete base, which you can climb for a panoramic view of the surrounding port area and the Indian Ocean beyond.
Security here is tight – a man with a rifle tells us we can’t take photos because we’re near the naval base.
Sambodhi Pagoda Temple
Sambodhi Pagoda Temple is a Buddhist shrine overlooking Colombo Harbour. It was built in the 1950s by the Colombo Port Authority and sits on a concrete platform, reached via a 123 step walkway, so that it was visible to sailors offshore.
Colombo Fort Clock Tower
The restored Colombo Fort Clock Tower was built in 1857. It also once used to serve as a lighthouse, but more recent development has obscured the view.
Theoretically we have walked 3 sides of a square, so it should be a short walk back to our hotel near the Dutch Hospital. However, the road passes police headquarters and a man with a rifle won’t let us pass. I can’t face the long walk back so try begging and pointing out how sweaty I am. The guard takes pity and lets us through.
Dutch Hospital
The 17th Century former Dutch Hospital complex has been restored and converted into bougie shops, restaurants and bars. A great place to relax and escape the heat of the day.
Dinner at King Crab
After a pitcher of beer to cool down, we have dinner; a Sri Lankan curry from King Crab, which is incredibly spicy. Then it’s time to head to the hotel to prepare for tomorrow’s rail extravaganza.
Accommodation – Fairway Colombo
We return to our new hotel; the very pleasant Fairway Colombo, which is conveniently situated in the Dutch Hospital area with its plethora of bars and restaurants. The hotel is wonderfully clean and very comfortable – a far cry from last night. In addition, since our visit, the Fairway has even introduced its own robot for more efficient room service! After a long shower, we settle down to sleep in our pristine sheets.
Sri Lanka Day 3 – Nuwara Eliya
Today, we are going on a train trip to Nuwara Eliya amidst the hills and tea plantations of Sri Lanka’s interior. It consists of a 6 hour journey, an 1889 metre climb in elevation and a 13 degree difference in temperature.
Colombo Fort Station
Our journey starts at Colombo Fort Station, the city’s main railway station, which has been in operation since 1917.
Train to Nanu-Oya
We board our train, the 9.45 to Nanu-Oya. The rolling stock looks like it belongs in a museum. However, at 9.46 a whistle blows and we’re off. One minute behind schedule – not something that often happens in the UK…
We have tickets in Observation Class, which is supposed to offer a good view, but the seats are facing backwards, so looking out of the window for too long makes me feel dizzy.
Once out of Colombo, we start to climb, a total of 1889 metres in total. The scenery is stunning, but the journey is like something from a nightmare. We are crammed into a sweltering hot compartment with no refreshments; we drink all our water within the first two hours. There are lots of children, jumping from seat to seat, many have plastic horns which they blow constantly. We wind our way onwards with several unexplained delays.
By the time we reach our destination, Nanu-Oya Station, over 7 hours later, and an hour behind schedule, I am tired, thirsty, grumpy and have a thumping headache.
Accommodation – Tea Leaf Retreat
Our hotel, The Tea Leaf Retreat, has sent a car to collect us. It’s a lovely boutique establishment in the hill station of Nuwara Eliya, overlooking a tea plantation. The bedrooms are clean and comfortable and have a balcony with a great view.
Dinner at Tea Leaf Retreat
On arrival at our hotel, we are served drinks and a very tasty Sri Lankan curry. Then we retire for the night.
Sri Lanka Day 4 – Nuwara Eliya
Today, we are visiting the city of Nuwara Eliya, starting with a tour of a tea plantation, before heading into town.
Pedro Tea Estate
By the time we finish breakfast it’s 9 am and a blissfully cool 20 degrees. We walk to the tea plantation at the end of the road; Pedro Tea Estate.
They have been producing tea here since 1885 and much of the original machinery can still be seen around the plantation.
We take a guided tour of the tea factory. There’s no production taking place today because it’s Full Moon, which is a public holiday. Even when the factory is in operation, the process requires a cooler temperature, so it usually only takes place at night. Nevertheless, we are taken through the factory to see how the process works. The tour finishes with a cup of homegrown tea in a teahouse overlooking the plantation.
Lover’s Leap Waterfall
We continue with a walk to Lover’s Leap waterfall. We take a wrong turn, so it is a longer, significantly steeper walk than it should be. But as it is a Sri Lankan holiday, we meet some very friendly locals along the way who point us in the right direction.
Dinner at Indian Summer
In the afternoon, we take a Tuk Tuk into town and have dinner at Indian Summer; a restaurant overlooking Lake Gregory. The food is excellent. Some Tripadvisor reviews complained about small portions and the restaurant seems to have taken this to heart as they produce a veritable mountain of food. Even the old man has to admit defeat and leave some uneaten.
Lake Gegory
After dinner, we take a walk along the shores of Lake Gregory. There is a park which runs along the southern shore, which is heaving with people walking, picnicking and taking boat rides. There is a carnival atmosphere with stalls and pony rides and bouncy castles and ice cream Tuk Tuks.
We decide to take a Tuk Tuk back to our hotel. The driver claims he knows where he’s going then promptly sets off in the wrong direction. 15 minutes of white knuckle ride later, he flags down another Tuk Tuk and asks for directions. The other driver doesn’t know either. The old man hands the other driver my iPhone, he passes it to his passenger and drives off! Luckily, this was an accident and they bring it back. We retrace our route for another 15 minutes of crazy driving, then the driver flags down another Tuk Tuk driver who does know where to go. We opt to transfer to the other vehicle and make it back to our hotel in one piece, if a little stressed.
Sri Lanka Day 5 – Kandy
We are breaking our return train journey to Colombo with an overnight stop in Kandy, home of the Temple of the Tooth.
Train to Kandy
This time, we are taking the express train, or Blue Train. It is a modern Chinese train with an air conditioned first class carriage. It’s quicker, more comfortable and we are facing the direction of travel. But it doesn’t have openable windows, so it’s less good for viewing the scenery as we descend towards Kandy.
The drop in altitude in today’s journey is 1400 metres. So, whereas we chugged slowly uphill two days ago, our return involves hurtling downhill at breakneck speed. It is a relief to reach our destination, particularly as a group of small children have swung from the parcel shelf for much of the journey.
Accommodation – Radisson Hotel Kandy
We reach Kandy by mid afternoon. We check into our hotel; Radisson Hotel Kandy, and head straight to the rooftop pool to cool down. From here, there is a great view over Lake Kandy, which we enjoy whilst sitting on sun loungers drinking beer.
Kandy Lake
In the evening, we take a walk along the shores of Kandy Lake, which is a pretty lake lined with trees. This artificial lake was created in 1807.
We walk along the lake, observing the the huge amount of wildlife that inhabits it; we manage to spot birds, fish, turtles, monkeys, bats, chipmunks, even a huge monitor lizard.
Dinner at Kandy Garden Cafe
On the south eastern edge of the lake is the Kandy Garden Club; a social and sports club which was established in 1878. Initially for the exclusive use of British coffee planters, these days it is, of course, more inclusive. Next door, you will find Kandy Garden Cafe. This small lakeside cafe offers authentic Sri Lankan cuisine, specialising in Kottu – eggs, onion and vegetables are cooked on a griddle, then shredded bread is added to the mixture. The old man orders a mixed Kottu, which contains all manner of extra ingredients; meat, seafood, sausage, cheese – it’s all in there.
We walk back to our hotel along the shore of the lake as the sun sets behind the trees.
Sri Lanka Day 6 – Kandy
Our train to Colombo is at 3 pm. First, we plan to spend the morning visiting the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic, which is located on the north shore of Kandy Lake. So we walk the mile round the lake from our hotel to the temple.
The Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic
The Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic (Sri Dalada Maligawa) is the site of Sri Lanka’s most important Buddhist relic; a tooth believed to belong to the Buddha, which is housed in a series of six golden caskets.
The queues to (a) get into the temple and (b) view the relic are enormous. The place is full of devotees dressed in white. It feels wrong to impose on their pilgrimage to gawk, so we just wander round the edges.
We enter a shrine which is rectangular and has Buddhas on all four sides, which throws me into a cultural panic. I have been told it’s rude to turn your back on a Buddha, so how to act when they’re all around you?
The Temple is open daily from 5.30 am until 8 pm. Entry for most foreigners costs 2,000 LKR (around £5).
Kandy Clock Tower
We explore the town a little before heading back to the hotel. Central landmark, in the middle of a roundabout, is Kandy Clock Tower. The tower was commissioned in 1950 by Haji Mohamed Ismail, agent for a British car company, as a monument to his dead son.
Back at the hotel, there is just time for a swim and a beer to cool us down before braving the scrum and heat of Sri Lankan rail travel once more. First, a Tuk Tuk to the station; this involves an interesting manoeuvre where we drive the wrong way round a roundabout, almost running over a policeman.
Train to Colombo
On our train back to Colombo, we are in Observation Class again. But this time it’s a modern, comfortable, air conditioned carriage. It’s actually quite pleasant and there’s no need to try to keep cool by sticking your head out of the window and hoping you don’t get decapitated in the process.
It’s only a 2½ hour journey but it feels much longer. Primarily because I’m sitting next to two small children whose parents feed them some fluorescent fizzy drink which makes them so hyperactive they spend the entire journey shrieking and throwing nuts at each other.
Dinner at Colombo Fort Cafe
Once back in Colombo. we go for drinks and dinner at Colombo Fort Cafe. The old man has a pint of lager and two pints of Lion Stout at 8.8% alcohol. To be honest, he becomes a bit of a mess, but he makes it back to the hotel to bed, where he hiccups himself to sleep. Tonight, we have returned for a couple more nights at the excellent Fairway Colombo.
Sri Lanka Day 7 – Colombo
Today, we begin our journey home, but not until much later; we don’t need to leave for the airport until 9.30 pm. First, a day exploring Colombo. We decide to pay for another night at the hotel so we don’t have to check out until evening.
Galle Face Green
After breakfast, we take a walk along Galle Face Green. It’s a British style seaside prom. There’s even a memorial from its opening by Sir Henry Ward in 1859 in which he recommends the prom ‘to his successors in the interest of the ladies and children of Colombo’.
Unfortunately, Henry would be turning in his grave if he could see it now; it’s a filthy mess of garbage which makes me long for the beaches of Bournemouth.
Beira Lake
Next, we head for Beira Lake, in theory. In practice, the old man has counted that it’s 4th on the left on the map, but upon walking, he only counts the major roads. So we massively overshoot and have to double back. It’s very hot, so the extra walking is not appreciated.
The artificial lake dates back to the 16th Century, when it was constructed by the Portuguese as part of the city’s defences. Under Dutch occupation, the lake was enlarged and under the British, the land around the shores was developed (and the crocodiles removed). The lake is pretty (if you can look past the line of rubbish around the edge) and has two islands; one contains a Buddhist Temple and the other, a park.
Seema Malakaya Meditation Centre
Seema Malakaya Meditation Centre is a temple which was built in 1985. The temple sits on the lake, linked to the mainland by three floating platforms connected by bridges. The first platform holds a meditation room surrounded by bronze Buddhas. The second holds important Buddhist texts and may only be accessed by monks. The third platform has a courtyard centred around a sacred tree.
Gangaramaya Park
Gangaramaya Park is a small park set on an island on the lake, reached by a suspension bridge. It’s a nice place to sit in the shade and take a moment to relax and rehydrate.
Colombo Lotus Tower
Beira Lake is actually in two parts. Across the other side of the lake is Colombo Lotus Tower. At 351 metres tall, is South Asia’s tallest self-supported structure and the 19th tallest tower in the world. When we visited, the tower was still under construction, so we had to make do with admiring the distinctive green and purple tower from below.
You can now visit the the tower, which has 5 floors in the Base and a further 8 floors in Tower House (the pink bit at the top). In between is the Tower Body, which contains lifts including three that travel at 7 metres per second! You ascend from the Ground Floor, which contains a Food Court and Digital Art Museum, up past offices, a gaming arena, children’s play area, theatre, bar, revolving restaurant and apartments to the Observation Deck.
We take a Tuk Tuk back to the hotel (thankfully our last of the trip). Again, the driver has no clue where he is going and we stop four times while he flags people down for directions, including a man with a monkey!
Dinner at the Dutch Pub
We stop for a while at the Dutch Pub for a pitcher of beer to cool down and rehydrate and a snack. Then it’s back to our hotel for an $80 (the cost of a late checkout) nap. Before we leave, just time to check out the Fairway Colombo Cultural Show; a selection of dances and martial arts performed to the rhythm of drums. It’s both entertaining and mesmerising.
Added interest stems from watching cars trying to weave past the performers in the street. We watch until our taxi almost arrives to take us to the airport – I can see it stuck behind two men having a musical sword fight.
Note: Since our visit, the Cultural Show has been suspended.
- Trip Taken: April 2018
- Updated: November 2025
I hope you found the above information useful. For guides to more destinations in the 50+ countries we have visited, check out my full list of Independent Travel Itineraries here.
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