We spent two days in Sarajevo as part of our Balkan road trip. Before I started planning this trip, I could narrow my knowledge of Sarajevo down to three things: (1) during the Bosnian War, the city was under siege for several years, (2) Franz Ferdinand was assassinated here, the event which sparked World War I and (3) it hosted the 1984 Winter Olympics. These three events, particularly the siege are, of course, important in the city’s history. However, there is so much more to this atmospheric, alluring city than the conflict it is synonymous with.
How to get to Sarajevo
We drove to Sarajevo from Dubrovnik via Mostar and onwards from here to Split; scenic drives through the mountains and the Neretva Valley, although the roads to Split aren’t the smoothest. If you wish to fly to Sarajevo, the airport is around 7 miles south east of the old town. There are also regular trains to Mostar and bus services to Mostar and other domestic cities as well as destinations in Montenegro, Serbia and Croatia.
Getting around Sarajevo
We did all our exploring on foot, with the exception of the Tunnel of Hope, which we visited on the way into the city. The Tunnel is around 8 miles south west of the old town. If you’re not on a road trip, it’s near the airport, so still the best place to start a tour of Sarajevo. Both geographically and because it tells a chapter of the story of the city’s turbulent past. Most of the sights detailed are in the old town, so accessible on foot, although the hill to the Yellow Bastion is quite steep (but worth it for the view). If it’s too much, the city has a cheap and comprehensive tram system. Tram No 3 runs in a loop round the old town.
Where to stay in Sarajevo
We stayed at the tiny (7 room) Hotel Lula. It is a unique place, with its shabby chic decor. Breakfast is a revelation – in the basement dining room, one wall is lined with a comprehensive buffet. The other 3 walls consist of a fake cottage, a fake woodpile and a fake forest. Running right through the middle; a fake tree. One thing is certain, it’s very conveniently located, just a stone’s throw from Pigeon Square. And you get a free pipe on check in!
Sarajevo in 2 Days Itinerary
| Day 1 | Drive to Sarajevo Tunnel of Hope Accommodation – Hotel Lula Baščaršija (Pigeon Square) Sacred Heart Cathedral Dinner at Bosanska Kuca |
| Day 2 | Yellow Bastion Kovaci Cemetery Sarajevo City Hall Latin Bridge Sarajevo 1878-1918 Museum Walk along Miljacka River Eternal Flame Dinner at Cevabdzinica Hodzic |
Sarajevo Day 1
Drive to Sarajevo
The drive from Mostar to Sarajevo is 77 miles; a scenic mountain drive, much of it along the valley of the beautiful blue-green Neretva River.
Jablanica
We stopped around 50 miles south west of Sarajevo in Jablanica, site of a WW2 battle, where Tito’s Partisan forces took out a railway bridge to thwart the advancing Germans. The bridge still lies upended in the river as a monument to those who fought. There’s a train perched perilously near the edge of the bridge and a small museum.
Jablanica Museum
Jablanica Museum is open daily from 8 am (10 am on weekends) until 6 pm between April and October. And from 8 am until 4 pm Monday to Friday during winter. Entry costs 4 KM (around £1.70). If you’re passing, it makes an interesting stop. If not, it’s probably not worth a detour.
Tunnel of Hope
On the outskirts of Sarajevo is the Tunnel of Hope. During the Siege of Sarajevo, when the city was cut off from the rest of Bosnia for a total of 1425 days, a tunnel was built under the airport to smuggle supplies in and the wounded out of the city.
Nowadays, the Tunnel of Hope is a tourist attraction and offers visitors a fascinating insight into the horrors of the war and the resilience of the people of Sarejevo. You can go down into the tunnel to see how it operated. Rails were laid through the tunnel and then trollies, wheelchairs, stretchers etc were adapted to fit the rails.
The tunnel is open daily from 8.30 am until 5.30 pm (9 am until 4 pm in winter). Entry costs 20 KM (around £8.50).
Accomodation – Hotel Lula
We continue into the city of Sarajevo and check into our hotel; Hotel Lula, which is both unique and conveniently located, right in the centre of the old town.
Baščaršija (Pigeon Square)
Once we have checked in, we take a wander round the old town, walking through the Baščaršija, nicknamed Pigeon Square. This cobbled pedestrian area in the heart of the old town, lined with restaurants and souvenir shops. And, of course, pigeons.
Sacred Heart Cathedral
We return to our hotel via the Sacred Heart Cathedral. The Neo-Gothic style cathedral dates from the 19th Century. It was damaged during the war, but has since been restored to its former glory.
Outside is a sculpture of Pope Francis, who visited in 2015.
Dinner at Bosanska Kuca
We round the evening off with beer and kebabs at Bosanska Kuca, sitting outside to enable us to watch the world go by the Baščaršija as we dine. Then retire pending a full tourist onslaught on Sarajevo in the morning.
Sarajevo Day 2
Yellow Bastion
After breakfast, we set off to explore Sarajevo. We head for the Yellow Bastion, which overlooks the city and offers a great view of the city (i.e. involves a long uphill walk). It may be uphill, but it’s not far, only 700 metres from the old town.
Kovaci Cemetery
The hill leading to the Yellow Bastion is mostly covered by the Kovaci Cemetery, which is filled with line upon line of war graves. It’s a very visual reminder of the loss this city has suffered. The cemetery is also the final resting place of Bosnia’s first president, Alija Izetbegović.
Sarajevo City Hall
Next we visit the beautifully restored neo-Moorish Sarajevo City Hall with its ornate interior and stained glass ceiling.
The basement contains a museum with interesting displays covering the key events of the city’s history. Most famously, Franz Ferdinand was departing a function here when he was assassinated in 1914.
The City Hall is open daily from 9 am until 5 pm. Entry costs 10 KM (around £4.25).
Latin Bridge
We continue along the river to the corner of the Latin Bridge. This is assassination spot of Franz Ferdinand. Here, somewhat bizarrely, you can find a plaque and an illustration of the monument which once marked the spot. The original was removed by German troops during WW2 and presented to Hitler as a birthday present.
I studied European History at University. So, standing on the spot where the act which triggered the start of World War I took place, which ultimately shaped the world we live in today, is strangely exciting.
Sarajevo 1878-1918 Museum
Across the road is a (very small) museum which tells the story of the assassination its aftermath in more detail. The Sarajevo 1878-1918 Museum includes wax figures of the archduke and his wife, who you can join for a bizarre photo op.
Walk along the Miljacka River
We continue along the banks of the Miljacka River towards the 1984 Olympic Stadium. The river is lined by grand buildings, many still bearing bullet holes, and criss-crossed with bridges. My favourite is the Festina Lente Bridge, which has a loop in the middle.
1984 Winter Olympic Stadium
For a British person of a certain age, the Sarajevo Olympics is synonymous with scenes of Torvill and Dean’s gold winning ice dance Bolero. The Winter Olympic Stadium is a bit forlorn nowadays and not much to see, but it was a nice walk!
Eternal Flame
We walk back towards the old town along the river, past the Eternal Flame (a memorial to those who fought in WW2) and stop for a beer in a bar where a surly waiter seems quite angry that people are ruining his afternoon of drinking and smoking by wanting stuff.
Dinner at Cevabdzinica Hodzic
We round the day off with dinner; the local favourite; Cevapcici (mini kebabs in a flatbread with onions) at Cevabdzinica Hodzic. Then go shopping for souvenirs amongst the myriad of stalls.
- Trip taken: September 2019
- Updated: February 2025
I hope you found the above information useful. For guides to more destinations in the 50+ countries we have visited, check out my full list of Independent Travel Itineraries here.
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