Copacabana is a small town on the shores of Lake Titicaca. This picturesque little town perched above the lake has some attractions of its own. It is also the departure point for ferries to the nearby islands of Isla del Sol and Isla de la Luna.

Although only 96 miles from La Paz, the journey incudes taking a ferry across Lake Titicaca (in addition to fighting your way out of La Paz traffic through the crazy traffic), thus takes around 4 hours. We spent three days on our trip to Copacabana, including travelling there and back.

Getting There

There are a variety of buses and tours options to Copacabana. We went on a shuttle organised by our hotel, which offered hotel to hotel pick up/drop off, departing La Paz at 8.30 am. The cost was $19 each way.

We also travelled with Vicuña Travel which departs from La Paz Bus Terminal for downtown Copacabana at 7.30 am. This costs $5.11 each way and doesn’t do the touristy stops en route. Vicuna Travel returns to La Paz daily at 1.30 pm. Buses stop at Plaza Sucre.

Copacabana is very close to the Peruvian border, so another option is to continue on to Cuzco. We went with Transzela. The bus departs La Paz at 6.00 pm, arriving in Cuzco at 5.30 am (12.5 hours, including a stop at Puno) and costs $28.

Getting Around

Copacabana is small enough to rely on walking everywhere. The elevation is 3800 metres, so (certainly in my case) walking needs to be at a sedate pace.

Where to Stay

We stayed at the Hostal las Olas. I have travelled to 72 countries – that’s a lot of hotels. Hostal las Olas rates as one of my all time favourites. It’s quirky and unique. The rooms are lovely, the gardens are beautiful and the view is spectacular.

Itinerary

Day 1	Bus to Copacabana/Ferry across Lake Titicaca Huatajata Mirador de Usijata Lake Titicaca Basilica Virgen de Copacabana Plaza 2 de Febrero Accommodation – Hostal las Olas x 2 Dinner at La Cupula
Day 2	Isla del Sol Escalera del Inca
Day 3	Horca del Inca Capilla del Señor de la Cruz de Colquepata Cerro Calvario Bus to La Paz/Cuzco

Attractions

1	Huatajata
2	Mirador de Usijata
3	Lake Titicaca
4	Basilica Virgen de Copacabana
5	Plaza 2 de Febrero
6	Isla del Sol
7	Escalera del Inca
8	Horca del Inca
9	Capilla del Señor de la Cruz de Colquepata
10	Cerro Calvario

Day 1

Bus to Copacabana

Today we are taking a minibus to Copacabana on the shores of Lake Titicaca. It’s less than 100 miles away, but takes four hours. It takes forever to fight our way out of La Paz through the traffic.

Once we have left the city, the driver seriously puts his foot down and our white knuckle ride begins. Soon, the highway runs out and we continue on what look like abandoned road works.

Huatajata

Eventually, the quinoa covered plains give way to water and we have reached Lake Titicaca. We stop at Huatajata. Here the papyrus ship used by Thor Heyerdal on his Kon-Tiki expedition was built and you can buy a replica if that sort of thing floats your boat, as it were.

Ferry Across Lake Titicaca

We drive on to Tiquina to catch a ferry across the lake. It’s not how I imagine a ferry – basically it’s a raft. Loaded with two buses. It’s a bit of a Top Gear moment.

On the other side, we have 40 more kilometres to drive through the winding hillside high above the lake. All driven on the racing line. The view (when I can brave opening my eyes) is amazing.

Mirador de Usijata

We stop at Mirador de Usijata for our first glimpse of Copacabana nestled by the side of the lake.

Hostal Las Olas

Luckily, we survive the journey and check into Hostal Las Olas. Each ‘room’ is separate and unique, in a beautifully landscaped garden on a hill overlooking the lake and town. We have La Tortuga; a turtle shape apartment complete with round bed and a second floor with hammocks and view of the lake.

There are llamas roaming free in the gardens. I think this is cool until I try and take a selfie and get spat at. It takes ages to remove the regurgitated grass from my cleavage!

Lake Titicaca

After we’ve finished admiring our accommodation, we take a walk into town, along the lakeside.

There is a walkway (Costañera) which runs along the lake shore for great views and that all important photo op.

Basilica Virgen de Copacabana

Then we walk into town to the cathedral; Basilica Virgen de Copacabana. It’s a beautiful 17th century building with white walls decorated with blue tiles topped with domed bronze roofs.

Plaza 2 de Febrero

The main square is bustling with traders and revellers in traditional clothes – there is a party in progress.

After purchasing some souvenirs and watching the celebrations, we go in search of dinner.

Dinner at La Cupula

We dine at the restaurant next to the hostel; La Cupula and have a trout fondue with quinoa salad. It requires frying our own food over a pan of boiling oil at the table. It tastes great and we manage not to set anything on fire.

We return to our room and the old man decides to light the log burner. Again he manages not to set anything on fire – particularly not the logs.

Day 2

After a busy few days of travelling, I decide I love Las Olas so much, I’m staying put in the garden with a book. So while the old man sets off on a boat ride to an island full of steps, I take a stroll along the lake, then settle in my deckchair overlooking the lake.

Isla del Sol

Meanwhile, the old man takes a ferry to Yumani on Isla del sol, an island on Lake Titicaca. The ferry, run by the Asociación Unión Marinos, departs from Copacabana at 8.30 am and 1.30 pm daily. (Returning at 10.30 am and 4 pm). The 90 minute journey costs 40 bolivianos return. It costs a further10 bolivianos to land on the island.

Escalera del Inca

Once on the island, he climbs the Escalera del Inca, a kilometre long stretch of steps lined with touristy stuff. Access to the Escalera costs 10 bolivianos.

In the evening we get dinner and watch a storm brewing over Lake Titicaca – a spectacular sight!

Day 3

We have a bus back to La Paz this afternoon. First we are going to visit Horca del Inca. We try to check out but reception is empty. We soon discover why; spitty llama is giving birth in the garden. It’s an exciting and unexpected start to the morning.

Horca del Inca

Horca del Inca is an ancient astronomical site on a hill just outside town. It is described by Google Maps as a 14 minute ‘mostly flat’ walk. 45 minutes and 389 steep stone steps later, we finally reach our destination. Quite a tough ascent at 3800m altitude.

Not much remains of the ancient observatory, but the climb is worth it for the view across the lake (I think). Entry to the site costs 10 bolivianos.

Capilla del Señor de la Cruz de Colquepata

We return to the hotel via the quaint, orange coloured Capilla del Señor de la Cruz de Colquepata; a name which just rolls off the tongue!

Cerro Calvario

The chapel marks the entry to the Cerro Calvario, a trail which runs from here, via the 14 Stations of the Cross, to a hilltop viewpoint. It takes about 30 minutes to walk to the summit.

Bus to La Paz/Cuzco

We have just enough time to get some brunch and see the baby llama one more time, then it’s time to retrace our steps to La Paz – different driver, same white knuckle ride. It takes two hours to reach the outskirts of La Paz and a further two hours to fight our way through the city traffic. This is where having a bonkers driver comes in handy. He fights his way through gaps that aren’t there and we finally reach the hotel having only hit one pedestrian. If I’d been driving, the same journey would have taken about a week!