We spent a week exploring Bolivia, starting in the high altitude capital, La Paz, with a side trip to Copacabana, on the shores of Lake Titicaca. There are several tour and bus options to Copacabana. Our hotel offered a shuttle bus, which was very convenient. Below is my itinerary for our Bolivian adventure, including attractions, accommodation and dining.
Bolivia 1 Week Itinerary
| Day 1 | La Paz Flight to La Paz Accommodation – Hotel Rosario La Paz Dinner at The Carrot Tree |
| Day 2 | La Paz Basilica de San Francisco Museo Nacional de Arte Plaza Murillo Mi Teleférico Mirador El Alto Dinner at Cafe del Mundo |
| Day 3 | La Paz Calle Jaen Museums Mi Teleférico (again) Botanical Garden Dinner at Tambo |
| Day 4 | La Paz to Copacabana Bus to Copacabana Huatajata Ferry across Lake Titicaca Mirador de Usijata Copacabana Accommodation – Hostal las Olas Lake Titicaca Basilica Virgen de Copacabana Plaza 2 de Febrero Dinner at La Cupula |
| Day 5 | Copacabana Isla del Sol Escalera del Inca |
| Day 6 | Copacabana Horca del Inca Capilla del Señor de la Cruz de Colquepata Cerro Calvario Drive to La Paz |
| Day 7 | La Paz Museo de la Coca Metropolitan Cathedral Urban Park Shopping at Mercado de las Brujas |
Bolivia Day 1 – La Paz
Flight to La Paz
Today, the high altitude portion of our trip begins. I’m not really looking forward to it – I’m not sure I’m designed for altitude. To make matters worse, I have a stinking cold. We are flying to La Paz. The airport is 4080 metres – that’s 2.5 miles above sea level. It’s crazy! I wouldn’t want to live 4080 metres from the sea horizontally, let alone vertically. My idea of an extreme deviation from sea level is the zigzag path from the beach to my house.
We land at the aptly named El Alto Airport and get a taxi into town, which is mainly down, 500 metres down, past thousands of houses clinging to the hillside. The traffic is crazy; it reminds me of Lagos, where we used to live and do constant battle with the traffic, only colder.
Accommodation – Hotel Rosario La Paz
We reach our hotel; Hotel Rosario La Paz, which is on a street so crowded with traders that the taxi can hardly squeeze through. It may be on a busy urban street, but inside the hotel is like another world; calm and quiet.
It’s only 10 am, but we are able to check in. While we’re waiting, we have breakfast and I manage to consume my body weight in water melon juice. Then we access our room, which is very nice inside, with the added bonus of a view of the city.
I go back to bed for a while to counter the 3 am start, the altitude and the lurgy I picked up on Easter Island.
Dinner at The Carrot Tree
In the evening, we have arranged to meet my neighbour’s mother’s Bolivian cousin, to whom our new credit card has been forwarded after the last one was cloned in Chile. Happily reunited with the all important piece of plastic, we go for dinner with the aforementioned cousin and her Bristolian boyfriend at The Carrot Tree. I order a Cajun salad so spicy it blisters my lips. The food, on the whole is very good, although do I order a Cajun salad so spicy it blisters my lips. The old man enjoys working his way through the comprehensive fruit juice menu. Then it’s back to the hotel for an early night.
Bolivia Day 2 – La Paz
I didn’t sleep well and have a pounding headache. When we arrived in La Paz, some of my toiletries had leaked and the rest had inflated to almost bursting point. That’s pretty much how my head feels.
We head for the breakfast buffet. It is large and beautifully laid out. You do need to time it right, however, and avoid the Chinese tour groups, who come armed with flasks and Tupperware and pick the entire area bare. The staff do restock immediately after the tour group departs.
Basilica de San Francisco
After breakfast, we set off to see La Paz. The secret is to do everything slowly, which incidentally I’m rather good at. We start at the 18th century Basilica de San Francisco, where we take a guided tour.
You can just look round the church by yourself, but the tour is well worth doing. This costs 20 bolivianos (around £2.30) and includes the cloisters, the church, then up a tiny, dark staircase onto the roof.
Just as I poke my head through the door to the roof, someone throws themselves off the tower block opposite. It takes a while for my eyes to adjust to the light. Then I spot the rope. It was a bungee jump – phew!
Once I have calmed down and caught my breath from climbing onto a church roof at altitude, we can enjoy the wonderful views and see how each roof tile is unique, because men made them by shaping clay round their thighs.
Museo Nacional de Arte
On to the Museo Nacional de Arte, another 18th century building, this time, bright red. It’s quite dark inside with only the paintings illuminated. Even so, the old man is the only person not to successfully negotiating himself round the room. He trips over a bench and sends it and himself flying.
The art is mostly religious, and sometimes weird, or even both.
In the basement, you can enter a large confetti filled room and create your own confetti moments.
Plaza Murillo
We Continue to the Plaza Murillo, which is surrounded by important buildings; the cathedral, the Palacio de Gobierno and the Palacio Legislativo. It is also surrounded by pigeons – kamikaze pigeons.
Mi Teleférico
Now for my first ride in what is to become a cable car (Mi Teleférico) extravaganza. There are 10 lines, each a different colour,(silver opened after our visit and and gold is currently under construction) Covering a total of 30 km, they criss-cross the city. The cable cars are clean, efficient and cheap (around 30p a ride). Honestly, I could have happily spent several days in La Paz just riding cable cars.
First we get on the Celeste line in the old town and head south east before changing to Blanca, which runs for miles hanging above the street.
We get off briefly at Plaza Villarroel for great views across the suburbs in the hills with the higher snow capped mountains behind. Then onto the Naranja line heading west again.
Finally, the Roja line, which starts dangling above the cemetery, then climbs 500 metres up to Mirador El Alto.
Mirador El Alto
Mirador El Alto provides spectacular views of the city and the Andes. Although, to be honest, there’s an equally great view from the cablecar on the journey up. The temperature difference at the top is substantial. And the air is noticeably thinner.
It is a relief to descend on the cable car and walk back through the market to the hotel.
Dinner at Cafe del Mundo
In the evening we go for dinner at Cafe del Mundo, which has taken the travel theme for its decor and run with it. The old man orders a coca beer and seems genuinely surprised when he announces that it tastes like leaves!
Then back to the hotel to plan another onslaught on the cable car system tomorrow.
Bolivia Day 3 – La Paz
Today, we start with some culture; the Calle Jaen museums. On this old colonial street, you can visit three separate museums. (Technically four, but the Museo Litoral Boliviano was closed when we visited.)
Calle Jaen Museums
Google Maps says that the Calle Jaen Museums are an 11 minute ‘mostly flat’ walk from the hotel. Google Maps doesn’t mention the large flights of stairs. I’d challenge anyone from Google to walk 800 metres, including 100 stairs, at 3600 metres altitude in 11 minutes.
Somewhat more than 11 lung-bursting minutes later, we reach our first museum and the receptionist asks for ID. Someone is going to have to walk back to the hotel and get our passports! I’m not sure who. Neither of us can breathe. With a little bit of pleading, we convince the receptionist to accept a photo of our passports, which is a great relief! We purchase our tickets, which cost 20 bolivianos (around £2.30) and includes entry to all the museums.
Museo Costumbrista
We start with the Museo Costumbrista, which tells the history of La Paz in costumes and dioramas. It’s actually really interesting, although only in Spanish, so even getting a basic understanding involves plenty of referring to my handy dictionary App. Photography isn’t allowed inside, so here is one of the entrance…
Museo de Metales Preciosos
Next comes the Museo de Metales Preciosos. This contains many gold and other items from Bolivia’s past. Inside it is very dark; black from floor to ceiling and has plenty of steps. That we both make it round without incident is an achievement.
Casa de Murillo
Lastly, the Casa de Murillo. Pedro Murillo is a local hero, who led an uprising against Spanish rule. His former home is filled with interesting artifacts from his life. We accidentally stray into a room that isn’t open to the public and are thrown out of the museum by a guard. It’s a long time since I got removed by security from anywhere.
Mi Teleférico (Again)
We decide that’s enough culture for one day, depart Calle Jaen and make for the Mi Teleférico again. Today, we start on the Naranja line, which heads west from the centre of town, then on to Blanca, which dangles above the high street, then Celeste, which follows the river.
Then Amarilla, to the end of the line high up in the hills at a station called Parque Mirador. It’s a disappointment as we can find neither a park nor a viewpoint. But it’s an interesting journey, hovering first above a Military Academy with recruits doing drills, then over a football stadium mid match.
Back along Amarilla, and up Verde, which passes over very fancy houses to the suburb of Irpavi. We had hoped to visit the military museum, but it’s shut for 2½ hours for lunch.
Botanical Garden
Back along Verde, Celeste and Blanca to visit the Botanical Garden. It costs 1 boliviano (12p) each to get in. I’m not sure it was worth the price.
So, it’s back onto the cable cars; Blanca (my favourite, which hangs above the street) back into town, then Naranja to the hotel.
Dinner at Tambo
We have a quiet evening with dinner at the hotel restaurant; Tambo. The food is very good. I’d recommend eating there even if you don’t stay. But I’d also recommend staying there.
Bolivia Day 4 – La Paz to Copacabana
Bus to Copacabana
Today, we are taking a minibus to Copacabana on the shores of Lake Titicaca. It’s less than 100 miles away, but scheduled to take four hours. Because it involves crossing lake Tititicaca. And because it takes forever to fight our way out of La Paz through the traffic.
First, breakfast. It’s not as easy as it seems as we are behind a Chinese tour group. The buffet looks like it’s been hit by a plague of locusts. There’s no fruit left at all, meanwhile a woman is attempting to force an entire watermelon into her handbag.
We are picked up by our bus and fight our way out of La Paz. Once we have left the city, the driver seriously puts his foot down and our white knuckle ride begins. Soon, the highway runs out and we continue on what look like abandoned road works.
Huatajata
Eventually, the quinoa covered plains give way to water and we have reached Lake Titicaca. We stop at Huatajata. It was here that the papyrus ship used by Thor Heyerdal on his Kon-Tiki expedition was built. You can see similar boats moored on the lake and even buy a replica, if that sort of thing floats your boat, as it were.
Ferry Across Lake Titicaca
We drive on to Tiquina to catch a ferry across the lake. It’s not how I imagine a ferry – basically it’s a raft. Loaded with two buses. It’s a bit of a Top Gear moment.
On the other side, we have 40 more kilometres to drive through the winding hillside high above the lake. All driven on the racing line. The view (when I can brave opening my eyes) is amazing.
Mirador de Usijata
We stop at Mirador de Usijata for our first glimpse of Copacabana nestled by the side of the lake.
Accommodation – Hostal Las Olas
Luckily, we survive the journey and check into our accommodation; Hostal Las Olas. Each ‘room’ is separate and unique, in a beautifully landscaped garden on a hill overlooking the lake and town. We have La Tortuga; a turtle shape apartment complete with round bed and a second floor with hammocks and view of the lake.
There are llamas roaming free in the gardens. I think this is cool until I try and take a selfie and get spat at. It takes ages to remove the regurgitated grass from my cleavage!
Lake Titicaca
After we’ve finished admiring our accommodation, we take a walk into town, along the shores of Lake Titicaca.
There is a walkway (Costañera) which runs along the lake shore for great views and that all important photo op.
Basilica Virgen de Copacabana
Then we walk into town to the cathedral; Basilica Virgen de Copacabana. It’s a beautiful 17th century building with white walls decorated with blue tiles topped with domed bronze roofs.
Plaza 2 de Febrero
The main square, Plaza 2 de Febrero, is bustling with traders and revellers in traditional clothes – there is a party in progress.
Dinner at La Cupula
We dine at the restaurant next to the hostel; La Cupula and have a trout fondue with quinoa salad. It means frying our own trout over a pan of boiling oil at the table. It tastes great and we manage not to set anything on fire!
We return to our room and the old man decides to light the log burner. Again he manages not to set anything on fire – particularly not the logs.
Bolivia Day 5 – Copacabana
All the travelling, a bout of food poisoning and a cold have taken their toll, so today I’m taking a ‘duvet day’. While the old man sets off on a boat ride to Isla del Sol, I take a stroll along the lake, then return via reception, borrow a book from the hotel library and settle in my deckchair overlooking the lake.
Isla del Sol
Meanwhile, the old man takes a ferry to Yumani on the Isla del sol, an island on Lake Titicaca. The ferry, run by the Asociación Unión Marinos, departs from Copacabana at 8.30 am and 1.30 pm daily. (Returning at 10.30 am and 4 pm). The 90 minute journey costs 40 bolivianos (around £4.70) return. It costs a further 10 bolivianos to land on the island.
Escalera del Inca
Once on the island, he climbs the Escalera del Inca (Inca Staircase); a kilometre long stretch of steps lined with touristy stuff. Access to the Escalera costs 10 bolivianos.
In the evening, we purchase supplies and have dinner in our room watching a storm brewing over Lake Titicaca – a spectacular sight!
Bolivia Day 6 – Copacabana
We have a bus back to La Paz this afternoon. We try to check out, but reception is empty. We soon discover why; spitty llama is giving birth in the garden. It’s an exciting and unexpected start to the morning
Horca del Inca
Llama excitement over, we walk to Horca del Inca, which is an ancient astronomical site on a hill just outside town. It is described by Google Maps as a 14 minute ‘mostly flat’ walk. 45 minutes and 389 steep stone steps later, we finally reach our destination. Quite a tough ascent at 3800 m altitude.
Not much remains of the ancient observatory, but the climb is worth it for the view across the lake (I think).
Capilla del Señor de la Cruz de Colquepata
We return to the hotel via the quaint, orange coloured Capilla del Señor de la Cruz de Colquepata; a name which just rolls off the tongue!
Cerro Calvario
The chapel marks the entry to the Cerro Calvario (Calvary Hill), a trail which runs, via the 14 Stations of the Cross, to a hilltop viewpoint. It takes about 30 minutes to walk to the summit.
Bus to La Paz
We have just enough time to get some brunch and see baby llama one more time then it’s time to retrace our steps to La Paz – different driver, same white knuckle ride. It takes two hours to reach the outskirts of La Paz and a further two hours to fight our way through the city traffic. This is where having a bonkers driver comes in handy. He fights his way through gaps that aren’t there and we finally reach the hotel having only hit one pedestrian. If I’d been driving, the same journey would have taken about a week!
Outside the hotel it’s gone crazy. It’s a two way street, but traders have set up market stalls in the road so it’s a huge mix of cars and stalls and pedestrians all fighting for the same piece of road. We venture out to purchase dinner, then retreat to our room and leave the Paceñans to their shopping-in-the-middle-of-the-highway thing.
Bolivia Day 7 – La Paz
One last day in La Paz. We planned to have a lie-in, but the police put paid to that idea when they arrive at our door at 8 am to check our passports.
Museo de la Coca
We start at the Coca Museum, which charts the history of the coca leaf, its role in Bolivian culture and uses as a drug, both legal and illegal.
The museum is more interesting that I’d anticipated. They also have a café where you can buy coca cocktails and original recipe Coca Cola.
Metropolitan Cathedral
We continue to the Metropolitan Cathedral. This 19th Century cathedral is less ornate than San Francisco Basilica, but it does boast Jesus on a neon cross.
Like most buildings in La Paz, it’s built on a hillside. Hence, the rear of the cathedral is at ground level, while the entrance is 12 metres up and accessed by a flight of stone steps.
Urban Park
Next, we attempt to visit the Urban Park but we can’t find the entrance. After walking around the edge past locked gates for some considerable time, we give up and make do with admiring the park from the bridges around the edges, then catch a cable car back to the hotel.
Shopping at Mercado de las Brujas
In the evening, one last outing to get dinner and souvenirs, including a wander along the famous Mercado de la Brujas (Witches’ Market) where they sell all manner of weird stuff to tourists. The street is crazy busy – it’s nearly carnival and there’s a never ending row of ladies in petticoats and bowler hats flogging steamers, fancy dress outfits and an array of gaudy plastic tat. And that completes our time in Bolivia.
- Trip taken: February 2019
- Updated: February 2025
I hope you found the above information useful. For guides to more destinations in the 50+ countries we have visited, check out my full list of Independent Travel Itineraries here.
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