Siem Reap is located a couple of miles from the spectacular Angkor Wat and the equally spectacular Angkor Thom. There are a wide range of accommodation options to suit all budgets. Its popularity with backpackers means the town has a vibrant nightlife, centred around Pub Street, where you can cool down and relax after a hard day’s sightseeing.

Getting There

We flew direct to Siem Reap. The airport is around 5 miles north west of central Siem Reap. We opted to stay outside town in which was close to the airport. Our hotel included airport transport (they sent a tuk tuk to collect us).

Getting Around

The main temple of Angkor Wat is approximately 4 miles north of Siem Reap, with Angkor Thom just north of it. In Siem Reap it’s all about the tuk tuk. They can be flagged down pretty much anywhere any time. Ask the driver his price. Haggle if you like…

Ankgor Pass

There are three options for purchasing an Ankgor Pass; a 1 day, 3 day or 7 day pass. Passes cost $37, $62 and $72 respectively. The 3 and 7 day passes don’t have to be used on consecutive days; the 3 day pass is valid for 10 days from the issue date and the 7 day pass is valid for 1 month from the issue date.

1 day passes are valid on the day they are issued, unless issued after 5 pm, in which case they are valid for the following day.

The Angkor Pass can only be purchased from the official ticket office, located 4 km away from Siem Reap town and open from 4.30am to 5.30pm every day. SInce Covid it also possible to purchase an Angkor Pass online.

We opted to purchase the 1 day pass at 5 pm the previous day. So, we bought the ticket on the evening of Day 2 and headed straight to Angkor Wat just in time to catch the sunset. Then had a full day of temple visiting on Day 3, arriving at Ankgor Wat in time for sunrise. Note: as the ticket must be purchased after 5 pm and Angkor Wat closes at 5.30 pm, there is a very small window for this option (take a tuk tuk to the ticket office, he can then wait for you and drive you to the entrance which is about 7 km away). A more sensible option would probably be to head to one of the temples which close at 7 pm instead…

Temples

The Angkor Pass if valid for Ankgor Wat, plus several other temples. Most of the temples can be visited from 7.30 am – 5.30 pm, but there are exceptions:

• Angkor Wat and Srah Srang can be visited from 5 am – 5.30 pm
• Phnom Bakheng and Pre Rup can be visited from 5 am – 7 pm

There are other things to do in Siem Reap, besides visiting temples, drinking cheap beer and buying knock off goods at the night market. For example, Angkor National Museum, a silk farm, a landmine museum and a butterfly centre. We opted instead to catch a bus to visit Phnom Penh for a couple of days.

Where we Stayed

We stayed at Sokkhak Boutique Resort. This a a beautiful hotel with a shady pool. It was extremely hot and humid when we visited Siem Reap, so I would recommend choosing somewhere with a pool. The one disadvantage is that it is a couple of miles out of town. But there were always tuk tuk drivers waiting outside to whisk you away to your destination of choice.

Our daughter stayed at a hostel in Siem Reap, which was much cheaper and more convenient. But she kept appearing at our hotel to use the pool. So, swings and roundabouts…

Itinerary

Day 1	Flight to Siem Reap Accommodation – Sokkhak Boutique Resort x 3 Dinner on Pub Street Night Market
Day 2	Floating Market Purchase of Angkor Pass Angkor Wat at Sunset Dinner on Pub Street
Day 3	Angkor Wat (including sunrise) Angkor Thom Bayon Ta Promh Preah Neak Poan Dinner on Pub Street

Attractions

1	Pub Street
2	Night Market
3	Floating Market
4	Angkor Wat
5	Angkor Thom
6	Bayon
7	Ta Promh
8	Preah Neak Poan

Day 1

Flight to Siem Reap

We have a lunchtime flight to Cambodia so no need to rush this morning; a leisurely breakfast and one last fight through the Vietnamese traffic to reach the airport. Getting through security takes a while. Carrying epipens means I’m used to my luggage being pulled aside for a visual search. But now my ever increasing fridge magnet collection creates a large black shadow on the x ray screen which also requires further inspection.

The flight to Siem Reap is on time and only takes 70 minutes; just enough time to fill out my life history in triplicate for immigration/ customs.

Sokkhak Boutique Resort

Upon arrival we are picked up and taken to our hotel; Sokkhak Boutique Resort. Child no 1, who arrived in Cambodia a couple of days ago, and is staying at a backpackers’ hostel in town, is already there, chilling by our pool and drinking wine she has put on our tab.

Dinner on Pub Street

Once we have settled in to our hotel, we take a Tuk Tuk into town to Pub Street for dinner and some 40p a pint draft beer.

Night Market

Then it’s on to the night market for souvenir shopping. I have no clean clothes left – my choices are do laundry or buy some ‘gap year’ trousers. I opt for a snazzy pair with an elephant print motif.

Then we take a Tuk Tuk back to the hotel. It’s not a bad way to ride; the breeze is very welcome in the tropical heat. But getting stuck behind a durian seller at traffic lights isn’t much fun!

Day 2

Floating Market

I have an upset stomach, so opt out of this morning’s activity and chill by the pool instead, which is blissful (notwithstanding the necessity for regular bathroom trips). Meanwhile, the others head to a floating market, which isn’t floating because it’s the dry season.

Purchase of Angkor Pass

In the afternoon, we take a Tuk Tuk to the ticket booth to buy our Angkor Passes. As you can buy a day pass from 5 pm the night before and temples don’t close until 5.30, we attempt to squeeze in a quick peak at Angkor Wat.

Tickets purchased, we get back in our tuk tuk for the ride to the entrance to Angkor Wat.

Angkor Wat at Sunset

We only manage to cross the moat and pass the gatehouse before they start to close up. However, it is still a sight to behold, just as the sun begins to set.

Dinner on Pub Street (again)

Then we return to Pub Street for dinner and for the old man to get squiffy on $1.50 margaritas. We abort a trip to the night market to buy fake Havaianas, as he is struggling with walking and return to the hotel for an early night. This is doubly advisable as we are being picked up at 5 am tomorrow so we can watch the sunrise at Angkor Wat.

Day 3

Angkor Wat

Today is temples day, and involves a very early start, with a 5 am departure to reach Angkor Wat before sunrise. We are actually the first people to arrive at the temple. We cross the weird squishy squashy bridge over the moat by torch light and wait for the sun to rise over a lake full of water lilies, so you can see the temple reflected in the lake. It certainly is a spectacular sight.

Bakan

After sunrise, we explore the site of Angkor Wat, including climbing to the top of the Bakan (inner sanctuary).

This involves negotiating a flight of around 60 very steep wooden steps. The final step is particularly deep, and as I climb, I hear an almighty tear. There is a large rip in my gap year trousers and I’m at the top of a temple which requires modest dress, flashing my arse to the long queue below.

By this stage, we have been at the temple for over two hours and it’s 34 degrees. We need to cool down. Luckily our lovely Tuk Tuk driver is waiting under a tree with a cool box full of water. Fluids replenished, we return to the hotel for breakfast and a change of trousers.

Angkor Thom

Once we have regrouped, we set forth again, this time for Angkor Thom. It’s a huge complex, several times larger than its neighbour. You start by crossing a bridge over a moat lined with carved warriors. I climb out of the Tuk Tuk without checking for traffic, and almost get run over by an elephant.

Baphuon

Over the bridge is the Baphuon Temple.

Terrace of the Leper King

Then come the Terrace of the Leper King and Terrace of Elephants, viewing platforms decorated with thousands of carved animals and statues.

Terrace of Elephants

The 350 metre long terrace is decorated with elephant carvings.

Bayon

The pièce de résistance of Angkor Thom is the Bayon Temple. Built in the 12th Century, it consist of 54 towers decorated with 216 faces.

Angkor Thom is probably even more impressive that Angkor Wat.. However, after another 2 hours sightseeing with the temperature soaring to a brutal 36 degrees, it’s time to return to the hotel again. I’m not feeling well so decide to call it a day. The old man and child no 1 have lunch and set forth to visit two more temples.

Preah Neak Poan

Ornate water temple.

Ta Prohm

Overgrown temple.

Pub Street (again!)

The evening takes its familiar pattern; drinks and dinner on Pub Street. The old man orders a barbecue, which basically means you get a bowl of raw food (including 6 types of meat) a gas stove and some boiling water to cook your own dinner.

Dinner complete, we return to pack ready for our morning bus to Phnom Penh.

• Trip taken: April 2018
• Updated: March 2023