Most people are drawn to La Fortuna because of its proximity to the spectacular Volcán Arenal, and rightly so. However, there are plenty of other things in and around La Fortuna, including a whole host of white knuckle activities. But if, like me, you like to keep your feet firmly on the ground, then there are waterfalls and wildlife to enjoy. Add in some great food and drink and a spot of retail therapy and you have the perfect recipe for a few days in La Fortuna. Bear in mind that, depending on the weather, views of the volcano vary between spectacular and non existent and be prepared to juggle your schedule around accordingly.
How to get to La Fortuna
We flew to San Jose and hired a car for our 3 week road trip, then drove the 73 miles to La Fortuna. Car hire is expensive in Costa Rica, so we went right to the bottom of the budget options with Mex Rent a Car. Even that set us back $942 for 18 days.
Getting Around La Fortuna
The main attractions in Costa Rica are rather spread out, so a car is ideal. If you don’t have one, there are plenty of tour operators offering transportation and organised trips.
Where to stay in La Fortuna
We stated at the Arenal Xilopalo and we loved it. The rooms are clean and spacious and we had a balcony overlooking the volcano. The hotel is set in beautiful grounds. The staff hoist bananas onto trees around the hotel each morning to attract birds, and you can just sit on your balcony with a cool drink (there’s a a fridge in your room and a bar upstairs) watching the birds with the volcano in the background.
La Fortuna in 3 Days Itinerary
| Day 1 | Drive to La Fortuna Bridge over the Rio Peñas Blancas Volcán Arenal Accommodation – Arenal Xilopalo Drinks at Lava Lounge La Fortuna Park San Juan Bosco Church Dinner from Panadería La Principal |
| Day 2 | Volcán Arenal National Park Sector Península Sector Volcán Dinner at Red Frog Coffee Roaster |
| Day 3 | La Fortuna Waterfall Bogarin Trail Dinner at Tiquicia |
La Fortuna Day 1
Drive to La Fortuna
We check out of our airport hotel and pick up our car; a Toyota Rush. It’s definitely seen better days (years even), which is fine. Last time we hired a 4WD car was in California. It was pristine with only a few miles on the clock and we were terrified of actually taking it off road. No such problems here. We could probably drive it off a cliff and get away with it!
We set off for today’s destination – La Fortuna. It’s a 73 mile drive, starting on the main Route 1 for 25 miles, then onto a smaller road. It’s a bit pot holey, but not as bad as I’d anticipated.
Bridge over the Rio Peñas Blancas
The most interesting part of the journey is the rickety rackety Bridge over the Rio Peñas Blancas. It looks like it was made from Meccano and you have to queue up to cross, as it can only take one vehicle at a time. Just after the bridge is a viewpoint, so we pull over to take some photos and walk back across the bridge. It’s a long way down – one of us walks further across the bridge than the other!
Volcán Arenal
Shortly after, we turn a corner and there is Volcán Arenal standing over a mile high with clouds just obscuring its peak – it’s quite a sight! On a good day, you can see the volcano from all over la Fortuna. This is our first spectacular glimpse. After a brief photo stop, we reach the town at the foot of the volcano; La Fortuna and our hotel for the next three nights; Arenal Xilopalo.
Accommodation – Arenal Xilopalo
The Arenal Xilopalo hotel is literally at the end of the road, with rows of cabins with verandas set in gardens full of all sorts of wildlife. Before we’ve even finished checking in, we spot a huge iguana walking along a branch outside reception and a hummingbird. We finally complete check in despite the various wildlife interludes and are shown to our room. It is very pleasant and has a volcano view. The staff attach bananas to the tree directly outside our window which attracts an abundance of birds.
After we have explored our new accommodation and sat on the veranda admiring the view for a while, we take a wander into central La Fortuna. This small, touristy town is lined with bars, restaurants and souvenir shops.
Drinks at Lava Lounge
La Fortuna has plenty of bars and cafes to choose from. We opt for Lava Lounge because its elevated location and partially open air lounge provide a great view of both the volcano and the town. They also have a great selection of locally brewed craft beers.
La Fortuna Park
The central point is pretty little La Fortuna Park with fountains, flower beds and possibly volcano views. When we visited, clouds were starting to form over the volcano and only the bottom was visible.
San Juan Bosco Church
Next to the park is San Juan Bosco Church, whose squat steeple is dwarfed by the volcano in the background.
Dinner from Panadería La Principal
We stop at Panadería la Principal, drawn in by the window displays bulging with a huge array of delicious breads and cakes. It is in the centre of town, opposite the church. We purchase two Trenzas (Spanish for plait); these braided breads come in both savoury and sweet varieties. We opt for one stuffed with chicken, cheese and beans and for dessert, one stuffed with cream cheese and pineapple.
We eat our dinner (which is delicious) on the bench outside our room with its volcano backdrop, watching dozens of exotic birds feasting on the bananas. The combination of jetlag, an early start and a long drive (followed by a couple of beers) means we are settled in our room with no desire to move again by 5 pm. To be honest, the view is so amazing that moving seems counterproductive. I could happily just sit on my veranda for the next 3 days…
We watch the sun set over the volcano which threatens to be stunning, before clouds descend and obscure everything. Then take an early night before setting off for a more up-close volcano encounter in the morning.
La Fortuna Day 2
Volcán Arenal National Park
It rained in the night. A lot. We went to bed in a cabin surrounded by gardens and woke up surrounded by a moat. We decide to stick with our original plan to go to Volcán Arenal National Park, despite the fact that the volcano is barely visible behind the clouds.
Volcán Arenal, measuring 1600 m in height, with its peak standing proud above the rain forest (often topped by cloud) makes for spectacular views for miles around. As it is technically an active volcano, climbing Arenal is not permitted, however you can visit the National Park at its base. Here, several trails will furnish you with even more spectacular views of the volcano and of Lake Arenal.
There are no food or drink outlets in the National Park, so ensure you take sufficient water and other supplies for your visit. There are plenty of options in town. Alternatively, as you exit La Fortuna and head towards the park on Route 142, there is a Maxi Pali supermarket on the right or Super Christian 4 on the left.
Arenal Volcano National Park is a 16 km drive from La Fortuna. The first 14 km is along the main road (Route 142), then take a left turn onto the Calle Real el Castillo. After 2 km, you will reach the main park entrance (Sector Volcán). It is an easy drive along paved roads. The drive to the main entrance is uneventful, apart from an emergency stop for a couple of coati in the middle of the road (actually it’s more of an emergency stop for a couple of cyclists who brake suddenly to take photos of the coatis).
The park is divided into two sectors; Sector Volcán and Sector Península. Opening hours are from 8 am to 4 pm. As we arrive at 8 am and there is a queue of vehicles waiting to enter Sector Volcán, we opt to visit Sector Península first.
Sector Península
To reach Sector Península we have to go off road. Very off road. Turn right by the main park entrance to tackle the 2 km drive along an extremely bumpy track. As we bounce our way over the rocks, we’re suddenly very grateful to Mex Rent a Car for giving us such a decrepit vehicle. I wouldn’t recommend driving this unless you have a 4WD vehicle. The trail finally brings you to the park entrance.
There is plenty of car parking right outside the entrance. We purchase our entry ticket. This is valid for both sectors, so if you plan to visit both, keep it somewhere safe (mine went into my bumbag with other essential items; phone, face mask, emergency Oreos…)
Costa Rican national parks are very eco friendly; there are no paper maps or guides available. So it is necessary to consult the map at the entrance and preferably take a screen shot before setting off.
Sendero los Miradores
We set off along the Sendero los Miradores; a 1.2 km long trail which takes you to a lookout over Lake Arenal. It is surprisingly well paved bearing in mind the road we had to drive down to reach it. The trail leads through the rainforest to a platform over the lake, where you can take photos (as long as you watch out for crocodiles).
Observation Tower
Half way down the trail is an Observation Tower which you can climb for views of the lake and the volcano (in theory, although it’s still shrouded by cloud).
Lake Arenal
Just past the crocodile warning sign, is the final viewpoint; a platform over the volcanic Lake Arenal which sits at the foot of the volcano.
Sendero El Tororoi
To return to the car park, you can either retrace your steps, or half way up the trail, take a right turn onto the Sendero El Tororoi. We choose to follow the Sendero el Tororoi. This trail is a short (600m), but steep loop off the main trail, through the rain forest, via a lot of steps and a bridge. we can hear, but not see, howler monkeys in the trees around us.
Sector Volcán
We return along the bouncy track to the Sector Volcán. Once you have shown your ticket at the gate (restrooms are also located here), you can drive a few hundred metres further to the car park at the trail head for the two main hiking trails.
Sendero las Coladas
First, Sendero las Coladas; a 2 km path which takes you to a bridge, from where you can climb onto a lava flow created when the volcano erupted in 1992.
Sendero el Ceibo
To return, you can either retrace your steps or take a left turn to follow the Sendero el Ceibo; a 3 km loop off the main trail. The Trail is named after a 400 year old, 30 metres tall Ceiba Tree. It’s so big you can climb in between its massive roots.
Mirador Principal
It has rained on and off all day, but as we are almost back at the car, it starts to bucket down. We make a run for it, but still get soaked. Once back at the trail head, it is a 1.3 km walk/drive along the Camino Vehicular to the final lookout, the Mirador Principal. We decide to drive because of the rain. This viewpoint is supposed to provide the best view of the volcano. By now, we can’t even work out where the volcano is, so we give up and head back into town.
I don’t usually use other people’s photos in my blog, but here is the same view on a good day…
The Volcán Arenal National Park is open daily from 8 am until 4 pm. Entry for foreigners costs $16.95. (It is quoted as $15 on the website, but there is tax to add to this). Entry must be paid by card.
Dinner at Red Frog Coffee Roaster
La Fortuna has a plethora of restaurants to choose from. We select the Red Frog Coffee Roaster and order the Comida Típica; a choice of meat with rice, beans, plantain, mashed potato and salad. I choose the vegetarian option, which is basically the same but without the meat. All the carbs represented – they’ve even stuck some tortilla chips in the mashed potato for good measure!
We return to our hotel for another early night – it’s been a long day with a lot of walking and we are rather weary.
La Fortuna Day 3
It’s our last day in La Fortuna and there is no rain forecast for a full 6 hours. However, the volcano remains stubbornly hidden behind the clouds.
La Fortuna Waterfall
This morning’s activity is a trip to La Fortuna Waterfall; a waterfall on the outskirts of town, which is accessed via a flight of 530 steps – a jolly sensible activity for two old codgers with dodgy knees!
The short drive from the town of La Fortuna to the waterfall is all along paved roads. This brings you to a large, free car park. As the ticket desk, we pay the entry fee, get issued with wristbands and set off down the steps to the waterfall. The path is well maintained and easy to negotiate with handrails all the way down. The view is quite spectacular – presumably aided by all yesterday’s rain – as the water thunders 70 metres over the cliff top into a pool below.
At the bottom is another lookout, or you can go hard core and actually swim beneath the waterfall. It’s very rocky, so difficult to access, plus the rocks are wet, therefore slippery and the current is strong. The old man braves a dip in the pool. In my opinion, it’s more of a spectator activity. Most people appear to be pretending to get in, taking a photo, then not actually climbing over the slippery boulders into the freezing water.
I wuss out and opt to swim further downriver. It’s lovely and refreshing, although the force of the waterfall makes it a bit like swimming in an infinity pool. I happily swim hard towards the waterfall then float back downstream multiple times.
Then we have to climb the 530 steps back to the entrance. It takes less time than I’d anticipated. The area is beautifully landscaped and there are inspirational quotes (and step counts) along the way to spur you on, plus seating areas in case you need a break mid climb.
Orchid Garden
At the top, included in the ticket price, is an Orchid Garden. Although there weren’t any orchids when we visited in January (apparently they bloom in May), it’s still a pleasant walk amidst the flowers and foliage of the rainforest.
We also spotted a very beautiful hummingbird. At the top of the waterfall, you will toilets, changing rooms with showers, a café and a gift shop.
La Fortuna Waterfall is open daily between 7 am and 5 pm. Entry for foreigners costs $20, with tickets sold for a two hour block.
Bogarin Trail
After lunch, we decide it’s time to find sloths. We haven’t spotted any in the wild, so head for a rainforest trail, where you can pay for the privilege of looking for sloths. There are several sloth trails around La Fortuna. We opted for the Bogarin Trail because it had a self guided tour option. Guided tours are also available, but we found that wherever there was a sloth, there was a group of people gathered, so a guide wasn’t really necessary. Bogarin is just off the main road, Route 142, on the outskirts of La Fortuna. The trail is around 2.5 kilometres long, and reasonably well signposted.
We walk along the trails, necks aching from constantly looking up, toes hurting from tripping on tree roots because we’re not looking where we’re going. We see plenty of wildlife (birds and agouti) but no sloths.
Eventually we spot two sloths– a mother and baby. To be more accurate, we spot a group of people looking up a tree, rather than actually spotting the sloths. It’s quite exciting, apart from the fact that they don’t really do anything except hang from a tree. They are also hanging very high up in the tree, which makes them difficult to see/photograph.
We walk around for 90 minutes but don’t find any more, so we follow a sign saying ‘Trail Reception 100 metres’. The old man is adamant that this is not the way we came, but we continue to follow the signs regardless. Unfortunately, it’s the reception for a different sloth trail to the one we started at. So we end up having to walk down the main road and round the block to where we parked the car, with the old man harping on about how he told me so. With sloths finally ticked off the ‘to do’ list, our time in La Fortuna is almost at an end.
Bogarin Trail is open daily from 7 am until 5 pm. A self guided tour costs $20. Guided tours run hourly from 8 am until 4 pm and cost $45 . There is also a night tour ($60). Entry must be paid in cash.
Dinner at Tiquicia
Today has involved quite a lot of walking. We refuel with some typical Costa Rican food. We opt for Tiquicia, a kilometre south of town on Route 702. This cosy little restaurant is a little further out of town than most, but is well worth the trip. The food is amazing. I especially enjoyed the starter of patacones (plantain which is fried, mashed, formed into pancakes and fried again). I was too busy stuffing my face to take a photo!
- Trip Taken: January 2022
- Updated: March 2025
I hope you found the above information useful. For guides to more destinations in the 50+ countries we have visited, check out my full list of Independent Travel Itineraries here.
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