Most people are drawn to La Fortuna by Volcán Arenal, and rightly so. However, there are plenty of other things in and around La Fortuna, including a whole host of white knuckle activities. But if, like me, you like to keep your feet firmly on the ground, then there are waterfalls and wildlife to enjoy. Add in some great food and a spot of retail therapy and you have the perfect recipe for a few days in La Fortuna. Bear in mind that, depending on the weather, views of the volcano vary between spectacular and non existent and be prepared to juggle your schedule around accordingly.

Getting There

We flew to San Jose and hired a car, heading first to La Fortuna as part of a 3 week road trip. Car hire is expensive in Costa Rica, so we went right to the bottom of the budget options with Mex Rent a car. Even that set us back $942 for 18 days.

Getting Around

Things are rather spread out so a car is ideal. If you don’t have one, there are plenty of tour operators offering organised trips to the main attractions.

Where we Stayed

We stated at Hotel Arenal Xilopalo and we loved it. The rooms are clean and spacious and we had a balcony overlooking the volcano. The hotel is set in beautiful grounds. The staff hoist bananas onto trees around the hotel each morning to attract birds, and you can just sit on your balcony with a cool drink (there’s a a fridge in your room and a bar upstairs) watching the birds and the volcano in the background.

Itinerary

Day 1	Drive to La Fortuna Bridge over the Rio Peñas Blancas Accommodation – Hotel Xilopalo x 3 La Fortuna La Fortuna Park San Juan Bosco Church Drinks at Lava Lounge Dinner from Panadería La Principal
Day 2	Volcán Arenal National Park Dinner at Red Frog Coffee Roaster
Day 3	La Fortuna Waterfall Bogarin Sloth Trail Dinner at Tiquicia

Attractions

1	La Fortuna Park
2	San Juan Bosco Church
3	Volcán Arenal National Park
4	La Fortuna Waterfall
5	Bogarin Sloth Trail

Day 1

Drive to La Fortuna

We check out of our airport hotel and pick up our car; a Toyota Rush. It’s definitely seen better days (years even), which is fine. Last time we hired a 4WD car was in California. It was pristine with only a few miles on the clock and we were terrified of actually taking it off road. No such problems here. We could probably drive it off a cliff and get away with it!

We set off for today’s destination – La Fortuna. It’s a 73 mile drive, starting on the main Route 1 for 25 miles, then onto a smaller road. It’s a bit pot holey but not as bad as I’d anticipated.

Bridge over the Rio Peñas Blancas

The most interesting part of the journey is the rickety rackety bridge over the Rio Peñas Blancas. It looks like it was made from Meccano and you have to queue up to cross, as it can only take one vehicle at a time. Just after the bridge is a viewpoint, so we pull over to take some photos and walk back across the bridge. It’s a long way down – one of us walks further across the bridge than the other!

Shortly after, we turn a corner and there is Volcán Arenal standing over a mile high with clouds just obscuring its peak – it’s quite a sight! After a brief photo stop, we reach the town at the foot of the volcano; La Fortuna and our hotel for the next three nights; Xilopalo.

Accommodation – Hotel Xilopalo

The hotel is literally at the end of the road with rows of cabins with verandas set in gardens full of all sorts of wildlife. Before we’ve even finished checking in, we spot a huge iguana walking along a branch outside reception and a hummingbird. We finally complete check in amidst the various wildlife interludes and are shown to our room. It is very pleasant and has a volcano view. The staff attach bananas to the tree directly outside our window which attracts plenty of birds.

La Fortuna

After we have explored our new accommodation and sat on the veranda admiring the view for a while, we take a wander into town. Th small, touristy town of La Fortuna is lined with bars, restaurants and souvenir shops.

La Fortuna Park

The central point is a pretty little park.

San Juan Bosco Church

Next to the park is the San Juan Bosco church, whose impressive steeple is dwarfed by the volcano in the background.

Drinks at Lava Lounge

La Fortuna has plenty of bars and cafes to choose from. We opt for Lava Lounge because its elevated location and partially open air lounge provide a great view of the volcano and the town. As well as the usual beers, they have a great selection of locally brewed craft beers.

Dinner from Panadería La Principal

We stop at Panadería la Principal, drawn in by the window displays bulging with a huge array of delicious breads and cakes. It is in the centre of town, opposite the church. We purchase two Trenzas (Spanish for plait), these braided breads come in both savoury and sweet varieties. We opt for one stuffed with chicken, cheese and beans and for dessert, one stuffed with cream cheese and pineapple.

We eat our dinner (which is delicious) on the bench outside our room with its volcano backdrop, watching dozens of exotic birds feasting on the bananas. The combination of jetlag, an early start and a long drive (followed by a couple of beers) means we are settled in our room with no desire to move again by 5 pm. To be honest, the view is so amazing that moving seems counterproductive. I could happily just sit on my veranda for the next 3 days…

We watch the sun set over the volcano which threatens to be stunning, before clouds descend and obscure everything. Then take an early night before setting off for a more up-close volcano encounter in the morning.

Day 2

Volcán Arenal National Park

It rained in the night. A lot. We went to bed in a cabin surrounded by gardens and woke up surrounded by a moat. We decide to stick with our original plan to go to Volcán Arenal National Park, despite the fact that the volcano is barely visible behind the clouds.

Volcán Arenal, measuring 1600 m in height, with its peak standing proud above the rain forest (often topped by cloud) makes for spectacular views for miles around. As it is technically an active volcano, climbing Arenal is not permitted, however you can visit the National Park at its base. Here, several trails will furnish you with even more spectacular views of the volcano and of Lake Arenal.

There are no food or drink outlets in the National Park, so ensure you take sufficient water and other supplies for your visit. There are plenty of options in town. Alternatively, as you exit La Fortuna and head towards the park on Route 142, there is a Maxi Pali supermarket on the right or Super Christian 4 on the left.

Arenal Volcano National Park is a 16 km drive from La Fortuna. The first 14 km is along the main road (Route 142), then take a left turn onto the Calle Real el Castillo. After 2 km, you will reach the main park entrance (Sector Volcán). It is an easy drive along paved roads.

The drive to the main entrance is uneventful, apart from an emergency stop for a couple of coati in the middle of the road (actually it’s more of an emergency stop for a couple of cyclists who brake suddenly to take photos of the coatis).

The park is divided into two sectors; Sector Volcán and Sector Península. Opening hours are from 8 am to 4 pm. As we arrive at 8 am and there is a queue of vehicles waiting to enter Sector Volcán, we opt to visit Sector Península first – this requires driving off road.

Sector Península

But to reach Sector Peninsula we have to go off road. Very off road. Turn right by the main park entrance to tackle the 2 km drive along an extremely bumpy track. As we bounce our way over the rocks, we’re suddenly very grateful to Mex Rent a Car for giving us such a decrepit vehicle. I wouldn’t recommend doing this unless you have a 4WD vehicle. This brings you to the entrance with plenty of parking right outside.

We purchase our entry ticket. This is valid for both sectors, so keep it somewhere safe (mine went into my bumbag with other essential items; phone, face mask, emergency Oreos…)

Sendero los Miradores

We set off along the Sendero los Miradores; a 1.2 km long trail which takes you to a lookout over Lake Arenal. It is surprisingly well paved bearing in mind the road we had to drive down to reach it. The trail leads through the rainforest to a platform over the lake, where you can take photos (as long as you watch out for crocodiles).

Observation Tower

Half way down the trail is an Observation Tower which you can climb for views of the lake and the volcano (in theory, although it’s still shrouded by cloud).

Just past the crocodile warning sign, is the final viewpoint; a platform over the lake which provides a view across the lake to the volcano.

Sendero El Tororoi

To return to the car park, you can either retrace your steps, or half way up the trail, take a right turn onto the Sendero El Tororoi. We choose to follow the Sendero el Tororoi. This trail is a short (600m), but steep loop off the main trail, through the rain forest, via a lot of steps and a bridge. we can hear, but not see, howler monkeys in the trees around us.

Sector Volcán

We return along the bouncy track to the Sector Volcán. Once you have shown your ticket at the gate (restrooms are also located here), you can drive a few hundred metres further to the car park at the trail head for the two main hiking trails.

Sendero las Coladas

First, Sendero las Coladas; a 2 km path which takes you to a bridge, from where you can climb onto a lava flow created when the volcano erupted in 1992.

Sendero el Ceibo

To return, you can either retrace your steps or take a left turn to follow the Sendero el Ceibo; a 3 km loop off the main trail. The Trail is named after a 400 year old, 30 metres tall Ceiba Tree. It’s so big you can climb in between its massive roots.

Mirador Principal

It has rained on and off all day, but as we are almost back at the car, it starts to bucket down. We make a run for it, but still get soaked. Once back at the trail head, it is a 1.3 km walk/drive along the Camino Vehicular to the final lookout, the Mirador Principal. We decide to drive because of the rain. This viewpoint is supposed to provide the best view of the volcano. By now, we can’t even work out where the volcano is, so we give up and head back into town.

I don’t usually use other people’s photos in my blog, but here is the same view on a good day…

The National Park is open daily from 8 am until 4 pm. Entry for foreigners costs $16.95. (It is quoted as $15 on the website, but they add tax to this). Entry must be paid by card.

Dinner at Red Frog Coffee Roaster

La Fortuna has a plethora of restaurants to choose from. We select the Red Frog Coffee Roaster and order the Comida Típica; a choice of meat with rice, beans, plantain, mashed potato and salad. I choose the vegetarian option which is basically the same but without the meat. All the carbs represented – they’ve even stuck some tortilla chips in the mashed potato for good measure.

We return to our hotel for another early night – it’s been a long day with a lot of walking and we are rather weary.

Day 3

This morning’s activity is a trip to La Fortuna waterfall, which is accessed via a flight of 530 steps – a jolly sensible activity for two old codgers with dodgy knees!

La Fortuna Waterfall

First up, La Fortuna Waterfall. The short drive from the town of La Fortuna to the waterfall is all along paved roads. This brings you to a large, free car park. As the ticket desk, we pay the entry fee, get issued with wristbands and set off down the steps to the waterfall. The path is well maintained and easy to negotiate with handrails all the way down. The view is quite spectacular – presumably aided by all yesterday’s rain – as the water thunders 70 metres over the cliff top into a pool below.

At the bottom is another lookout, or you can go hard core and actually swim in the waterfall. It’s very rocky, so difficult to access, plus the rocks are wet, therefore slippery and the current is strong. The old man braves a dip in the pool. In my opinion, it’s more of a spectator activity. Most people appear to be pretending to get in, taking a photo, then not actually climbing over the boulders into the freezing water.

I wuss out and opt to swim lower downriver. It’s lovely and refreshing, although the force of the waterfall makes it a bit like swimming in an infinity pool. I happily swim hard towards the waterfall then float back downstream multiple times.

Then we have to climb the 530 steps back to the entrance. It takes less time than I’d anticipated. The area is beautifully landscaped and there are inspirational quotes (and step counts) along the way to spur you on, plus seating areas in case you need a break mid climb.

At the top, included in the ticket price, are an orchid trail and butterfly trail. Although there weren’t any orchids when we visited in January (apparently they bloom in May), it’s still a pleasant walk amidst the flowers and foliage of the rainforest. We didn’t spot any butterflies in the butterfly garden either, although we did see a very beautiful hummingbird. There are also toilets, changing rooms with showers, a café and a gift shop.

La Fortuna Waterfall is open daily between 7 am and 5 pm. Entry for foreigners costs $18.

Bogarin Sloth Trail

After lunch, we decide it’s time to find sloths. We haven’t spotted any in the wild, so head for a sloth trail, where you can pay for the privilege of looking for sloths. There are several sloth trails around La Fortuna. We opt for Bogarin Trail because it had a self guided tour option (CRC 10,000, around $19). Guided tours are also available (CRC 27,000, around $50), but we found that wherever there was a sloth, there was a group of people gathered, so a guide wasn’t really necessary. Bogarin is off the main road just outside La Fortuna on Route 142 (if you reach Maxi Pali, you’ve gone too far). The trail is around 2.5 kilometres long, and reasonably well signposted.

We walk along the trails, necks aching from constantly looking up, toes hurting from tripping on tree roots because we’re not looking where we’re going. We see plenty of wildlife (birds and agouti) but no sloths.

Eventually we spot two sloths– a mother and baby. To be more accurate, we spot a group of people looking up a tree, rather than actually spotting the sloths. It’s quite exciting, apart from the fact that they don’t really do anything except hang from a tree. They are also hanging very high up in the tree, which makes them difficult to see/photograph.

We walk around for 90 minutes but don’t find any more, so we follow a sign saying ‘Trail Reception 100 metres’. The old man is adamant that this is not the way we came, but we continue to follow the signs regardless. Unfortunately, it’s the reception for a different sloth trail company to the one we started at. So we end up having to walk down the main road, and round the block to where we parked the car, with the old man harping on about how he told me so. With sloths finally ticked off the ‘to do’ list, our time in La Fortuna is almost at an end.

Bogarin Trail is open daily from 7 am until 5 pm. Guided tours run at 8 am, 10 am, 1 pm and 3 pm. There is also a night tour at 5 pm (CRC 36,000, around $68). Entry must be paid in cash.

Dinner at Tiquicia

Today has involved quite a lot of walking. We refuel with some typical Costa Rican food. We opt for Tiquicia, a kilometre south of town on Route 702. This cosy little restaurant is further out of town than most, but is worth the trip. The food is amazing. I especially enjoy the starter of patacones (plantain which is fried, mashed, formed into pancakes and fried again). I was too busy stuffing my face to take a photo, so here is one I borrowed from the restaurant’s website…

• Trip Taken: January 2022
• Updated: April 2023