We spent a couple of days in Croatia’s second largest city, Split as part of a Balkan Road trip. It was one of my favourite places on the entire trip, with its ancient city, beautiful coastline, parks and galleries. Two days is enough to see all the city’s main attractions, but I could happily have stayed forever…
How to get to Split
We drove to Split as part of a road trip, arriving from Sarajevo and continuing to the spectacular Plitvice National Park. If you’re not driving, Split is a popular tourist destination, with options to travel by plane, train and ferry from all over Europe and further afield.
Getting Around Split
Split is a lovely city to just wander around. We didn’t bother with public transport.
Where to stay in Split
We stayed at the family run Guesthouse Vrlic, a lovely place, conveniently located close to the old town.
Split in 2 Days Itinerary
| Day 1 | Drive to Split Accommodation – Guesthouse Vrlic Diocletian’s Palace Peristil Cathedral of Saint Domnius Bell Tower Temple of Jupiter Harbourside Marjan Forest Park Drinks at Marjan Forest Park Viewpoint Gregory of Nin |
| Day 2 | Harbourside Brunch Meštrović Gallery Kaštilac Bačvice Dinner at Misto Street Food Factory |
Split Day 1
Drive to Split
Today, we drive from Sarajevo to the coastal city of Split. After the rough roads of Bosnia, shortly after arriving in Croatia, we are on a pristine motorway with tarmac so shiny and smooth I could kiss it, although it’s 29 degrees so it would probably burn my lips. We descend from the mountains until we reach the coast and Split.
As if karma has decided to give us a break, just as we pull up outside our accommodation on the edge of the old town, where parking is notoriously bad, a space becomes vacant. The landlady appears and tells us that if we put £1 in the meter, that’ll cover us for the weekend (as parking is free from 2 pm on Saturday until the rather random time of 6.47 on Monday morning).
Accommodation – Guesthouse Vrlic
The Guesthouse Vrlic is a family run guesthouse very close to the old town. It is very pleasant with clean, comfortable rooms, lovely hosts and a pretty garden. A great place to stay.
It has taken us just short of 5 hours to cover the 150 miles from Sarajevo, so we’re a little frazzled. But Split is such a lovely place, that it doesn’t take long to unwind. After chilling in our room for a while, we set off to see the city’s sights.
Diocletian’s Palace
Two things I know about Split; (1) it’s by the sea and (2) it has Roman stuff. We start with the Roman stuff; the Diocletian’s Palace to be more precise. This fortified town, built around courtyard, with a gate on each side (Iron, Bronze, Silver and Golden) was constructed for the Roman Emperor Diocletian in the 4th Century as a retirement home.
Peristil
In the centre is the Peristil; a colonnaded courtyard. Incorporated into the design were ancient Egyptian sphinxes plundered by the Romans.
Cathedral of St Domnius
To the left, is the octagonal Cathedral of St Domnius, built in the 4th century as a mausoleum for Diocletian, who was interred here in 311.
Bell Tower
Next to the cathedral is the Bell Tower. It stands 57 metres high and a looks rather like a wedding cake, with each tier smaller than the one below. It you’re brave, you can can climb a narrow, winding metal staircase to the top. The tower was initially built in the 14th Century and then rebuilt in 1908 after it collapsed – a fact which fills you with confidence as you commence your ascent…
I manage about two thirds before I end up clinging to a flimsy bannister in terror, unable to continue.
Temple of Jupiter
The Roman Temple of Jupiter is now part of the cathedral. Jupiter has been replaced by a statue of John the Baptist by Croatian sculptor and former Split resident, Ivan Meštrović.
Entry to Diocletian’s Palace is free, however you do need to pay to enter some buildings. There are a number of ticket options, ranging from €9 to €12. We purchased a green ticket for €12. This includes 3 sites: the Cathedral, the Bell Tower and the Treasury, where you can see some sculptures and paintings which relate to the Cathedral’s history.
Harbourside
We exit the city gate and take a walk along the harbourside, watching the hustle and bustle in the harbour with boat tours, ferries and cruise ships all jostling for position.
Marjan Forest Park
We round off the afternoon by climbing the 250 steps to the viewpoint in Marjan Forest Park. It’s hard work, but worth it for the great view over the city and the harbour.
Drinks at Marjan Forest Park Viewpoint
There is a bar at the top by the viewpoint, where you can take a drink whilst catching your breath and enjoying the view.
Gregory of Nin
Then we return to our guesthouse, via another sculpture by Ivan Meštrović; Gregory of Nin. It is supposed to bring you luck if you touch his toe, but he’s surrounded by a Chinese tour group and they’re taking no prisoners. So, we return to our room, where I fight a losing battle with a very unpredictable shower attachment – maybe I should have held out for a go on Gregory’s toe after all?
Split Day 2
Harbourside Brunch
We get up, purchase supplies from a local shop and walk along the Split harbourside, stopping for an al fresco brunch on a picnic bench overlooking the water. It’s almost like being back in Bournemouth, except it’s a sunny 28 degrees.
Meštrović Gallery
We continue walking along the harbour, until we reach the former home of Ivan Meštrović, now the Meštrović Gallery, where plenty of his sculptures are on display.
A game the old man likes to play with sculptures: to stand next to it mimicking the pose. Either Meštrović had some very flexible friends or else a vivid imagination. He also appears to have had an aversion to wearing clothes.
Kaštilac
After a stop for a drink in the gallery’s café overlooking the sea, we continue just down the road to an extension of the gallery; the Kaštilac.
Here, a small chapel houses more of Meštrović’s work, including a series of carved wooden panels depicting the life of Jesus.
The Meštrović Gallery is open daily except Monday from 9 am until 5 pm (7 pm in summer). Entry costs €10 and includes both the Main Gallery and Kaštilac.
Note: The Main Gallery is currently closed due to renovations. You can still access the Sculpture Garden and Kaštilac, with a reduced ticket price of €5.
Bačvice
We finish our last day in Split with a walk round the port to the beach of Bačvice. Although it’s a Blue Flag beach, it’s a bit grubby compared to the pristine beaches of my home town of Bournemouth. But the view is good and a paddle in the cool water is a relief after the heat of the day, even if you do need to dodge soggy cigarette butts and used wet wipes.
Dinner at Misto Street Factory
We return to the edge of Diocletian’s Palace and have dinner at Misto Street Food Factory. This tiny restaurant has an interesting menu. I order a fish burger, which comes in a black bun. The old man orders fish stew, which also comes in a (very soggy) bun. An unusual but extremely tasty dinner. There isn’t much seating space inside, but there are tables and chairs outside where you can dine alongside the ancient palace walls.
On the way back to our guesthouse, we purchase dessert; a tub of Slag ice cream. Not likely to catch on in the UK…
- Trip Taken: September 2018
- Updated: March 2025
I hope you found the above information useful. For guides to more destinations in the 50+ countries we have visited, check out my full list of Independent Travel Itineraries here.
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