We spent a couple of days in Croatia’s second largest city, Split as part of a Balkan Road trip. It was one of my favourite places on the entire trip, with its ancient city, beautiful coastline, parks and galleries. Two days is enough to see all the city’s main attractions, but I could happily have stayed forever…

Getting There

We drove to Split as part of a road trip, arriving from Sarajevo and continuing to the spectacular Plitvice National Park. If you’re not driving, Split is a popular tourist destination, with options to travel to plane, train and ferry from all over Europe and further afield.

Getting Around

Split is a lovely city to just wander around. We didn’t bother with public transport.

Where We Stayed

We stayed at the family run Guesthouse Vrlic, a lovely place, conveniently located close to the old town.

Itinerary

Day 1	Drive to Split Accommodation – Guesthouse Vrlic Diocletian’s Palace Peristil Cathedral of Saint Domnius Bell Tower Temple of Jupiter Walk along the Harbourside Marjan Forest Park Drinks at Marjan Forest Park Viewpoint Gregory of Nin
Day 2	Harbourside Brunch Meštrović Gallery Kaštilac Bačvice Dinner at Misto Street Food & Bar

Attractions

1	Diocletian’s Palace
2	Peristil
3	Cathedral of Saint Domnius
4	Bell Tower
5	Temple of Jupiter
6	Harbourside
7	Marjan Forest Park
8	Gregory of Nin
9	Meštrović Gallery
10	Kaštilac
11	Bačvice

Day 1

Drive to Split

After the rough roads of Bosnia, shortly after arriving in Croatia, we are on a pristine motorway with tarmac so shiny and smooth I could kiss it, although it’s 29 degrees so it would probably burn my lips. We descend from the mountains until we reach the coast and Split.

As if karma has decided to give us a break, just as we pull up outside our guesthouse; Vrlic, in the old town where parking is notoriously bad, a space becomes vacant and the landlady appears and tells us if we put £1 in the meter, that’ll cover us for the weekend (as parking is free from 2.30 on Saturday to the rather random time of 6.47 on Monday morning).

Accommodation – Guesthouse Vrlic

It has taken us just short of 5 hours to cover the 150 miles from Sarajevo, so we’re a little frazzled but Split is such a lovely place that it doesn’t take long to unwind. After chilling in our room for a while, we set off to see the city’s sights.

Diocletian’s Palace

Two things I know about Split; (1) it’s by the sea and (2) it has Roman stuff. We start with the Roman stuff; Diocletian’s Palace to be more precise. This fortified town, built around courtyard with a gate on each side (Iron, Bronze, Silver and Golden) was constructed for the Roman Emperor Diocletian in the 4th Century as a retirement home.

Peristil

In the centre is the Peristil; a colonnaded courtyard. Incorporated into the design were ancient Egyptian sphinxes plundered by the Romans.

Cathedral of St Domnius

To the left is the octagonal Cathedral of St Domnius, built in the 4th century as a mausoleum for Diocletian, who was interred her in 311.

Bell Tower

Next to to the cathedral is the Bell Tower. It’s 57 metres high and a bit like a wedding cake, with each tier smaller than the one below. It you’re brave, you can can climb a narrow, winding metal staircase to the top. The tower was initially built in the 14th Century, and rebuilt in 1908 after it collapsed, a fact which fills you with confidence as you commence your ascent…

I manage about two thirds before I end up clinging to a flimsy bannister in terror, unable to continue.

Temple of Jupiter

The Roman Temple of Jupiter is now part of the cathedral. Jupiter has been replaced by a statue of John the Baptist by Croatian sculptor and former Split resident, Ivan Meštrović.

Entry to the Cathedral, including climbing the Bell Tower costs KN 55 (around £6).

Harbourside

We exit the city gate and take a walk along the harbourside, watching the hustle and bustle in the harbour with boat tours, ferries and cruise ships all jostling for position.

Marjan Forest Park

We round off the afternoon by climbing the 250 steps to the viewpoint in Marjan Forest Park. It’s hard work, but worth it for the great view over the city and the harbour.

Drinks at Marjan Forest Park Viewpoint

Also, there’s a bar at the top where you can take a drink whilst further enjoying the view.

Gregory of Nin

Then we return to our guesthouse via another sculpture by Ivan Meštrović; Gregory of Nin. He’s supposed to bring you luck if you touch his toe but he’s surrounded by a Chinese tour group and they’re taking no prisoners. So we return to our room where I fight a losing battle with a very unpredictable shower attachment – maybe I should have held out for a go on Gregory’s toe after all?

Day 2

Harbourside Brunch

We get up, purchase supplied from a local shop and walk along the Split harbourside, stopping for an al fresco brunch on a picnic bench overlooking the water. It’s almost like being back in Bournemouth, except it’s a sunny 28 degrees.

Meštrović Gallery

We continue walking along the harbour until we reach the former home of Ivan Meštrović, now the Meštrović Gallery, where plenty of his sculptures are on display. A game the old man likes to play with sculptures: to stand next to it mimicking the pose. Either Mestrovic had some very flexible friends or else a vivid imagination. He also appears to have had an aversion for wearing clothes.

Kaštilac

After a stop for a drink in the gallery’s café overlooking the sea, we continue just down the road to the Kaštilac.

Here, a small chapel houses more of Meštrović’s work including a series of carved wooden panels depicting the life of Jesus.

The MeštrovićGallery is open Tuesday to Sunday between 9 am and 5 pm. Entry costs €12 and includes both the main Gallery and Kaštilac.

Bačvice

We finish our last day in Split with a walk round the port to the beach of Bačvice. Although it’s a Blue Flag beach, it’s a bit grubby compared to the pristine beaches of my home town of Bournemouth, but the view’s good and a paddle in the cool water is a relief after the heat of the day.

Dinner at Misto Street Food & Bar

We return to the edge of Diocletian’s Palace and have dinner at Mist Street Food & Bar. This tiny restaurant has an interesting menu. I order a fish burger which comes in a black bun. The old man orders fish stew, which also comes in a (very soggy) bun. A strange but tasty dinner. There isn’t much seating space inside, but there are tables and chairs outside where you can dine alongside the ancient palace walls.

On the way back to our guesthouse, we purchase dessert; a tub of Slag ice cream – not likely to catch on in the UK…

• Trip Taken: September 2018
• Updated: April 2023