We spent two days in Copenhagen as part of a long weekend, with a third day spent crossing the Øresund Bridge to visit Malmö, Sweden. It was my second time in Copenhagen, so we combined some past favourites with things that I’d missed first time round.
There is plenty to see and do to fill a weekend in Copenhagen (we didn’t visit any of the royal palaces, for example). But if you only have two days, I would recommend using one of them for the 30 mile trip up the coast to Helsingør, famous for the stunning Kronborg Castle, which was the setting for Shakespeare’s play Hamlet. If you have an extra day, then a trip across the bridge to Malmö is another great option.
How to get to Copenhagen
We flew to Copenhagen from London. Copenhagen Airport is 6 miles south east of the city centre. The Metro Line M2 runs from the airport into the city, taking just 15 minutes. Alternatively, you can take the train in the opposite direction and be in Malmö, Sweden in 25 minutes. There is a direct train service between Copenhagen Airport, Copenhagen and Malmö which runs approximately every 20 minutes.
Getting Around Copenhagen
We did a lot of walking, but also used a combination of subway, trains and buses. The Copenhagen public transport system is clean and efficient. If you’re planning on using public transport, day passes are available and can be purchased from ticket machines at stations.
Where to stay in Copenhagen
Our main reason for coming to Copenhagen was to run parkrun, so we chose a hotel close to our chosen event at Amager Strandpark; SleepCph. This rather basic hotel is more like a hostel with shared bathrooms, a communal kitchen and unmanned reception. Prices, however, are more akin to a hotel. It’s conveniently located, just a 7 minute walk from Lergravsparken St Metro Station.
Copenhagen in 2 Days Itinerary
| Travel to Copenhagen Accommodation – SleepCph | |
| Day 1 | Copenhagen Amager Strandpark Langelinie The Little Mermaid Gefion Fountain St Alban’s Church Kastellet Glyptotek Tivoli Gardens |
| Day 2 | Day Trip to Helsingør Helsingør Station Helsingør Harbour Promenade Kronborg Castle Helsingør Karen Blixen Museum |
Travel to Copenhagen
We flew to Copenhagen Airport and caught a train straight to Malmö in Sweden. The following day, we returned by train to Copenhagen for a couple of days in the Danish capital. As mentioned above, there is a direct train service between Copenhagen Airport and both Copenhagen and Malmö, running approximately every 20 minutes.
Accommodation – SleepCph
Once we have arrived in Denmark, we check into our hotel; SleepCph. As the name suggests, it’s a place to sleep, but that’s about it. I feel like I’m in a 30 year time warp and back in student halls. The room contains a bed, table and clothes rail. At the end of the corridor are a communal kitchen and bathroom. And this basic provision, three miles from the centre of town, costs £92 a night. The hotel’s main selling point – its proximity to parkrun. The receptionist says many of their guests are parkrunners. In fact, in the kitchen is a three metre long photo of the route for guests to visually feast on.
It’s another scorcher of a day, so I walk to the shop to buy drinks. There are signs around the hotel stating that no alcohol is allowed on the premises. The only decoration in my sparse yet expensive room is a Warholesque picture of James Dean. I ask myself ‘what would James do?’ And I buy beer.
Day 1
Amager Strandpark
It’s Saturday, AKA parkrun day, and we are going to Amager Strandpark; a beach and park located on the outskirts of Copenhagen. The park offers a range of recreational activities including swimming, sunbathing and beach volleyball. Even if you’re not into parkrun, it’s an interesting place to visit.
The Strandpark is on a small Island in the Øresund; the strait which separates Denmark and Sweden. It’s raining heavily and my waterproof is in a car park near Stansted Airport, so I am going to get rather wet. We walk to the start, then hide out in a shelter as long as possible. From here, we have a great view of the bridge to Sweden across the Øresund.
Once we have braved the elements to run round the park a couple of times, we return to the hotel and, once suitably clean and fed, set off for downtown Copenhagen. Alternatively, Amager Strand has its own subway station, so you can pick up the M2 here and be in the city centre in 10 minutes.
Langelinie
We start with a walk along the quayside, or Langelinie, where there are plenty of interesting sculptures to peruse.
There’s the Genetically Modified Little Mermaid, some rather phallic offerings resembling a worm with a large penis smoking a cigar.
And my personal favourite, a steampunk style man, deep in contemplation; ZinkGlobal.
The Little Mermaid
We continue, predictably, to one of Copenhagen’s most popular attractions, The Little Mermaid. This iconic statue was created in 1913 and is based on Hans Christian Andersen’s fairy tale.
I’m surprised by the huge throng of tourists round the Little Mermaid. Last time I was here, in 1988, we had the place to ourselves and were able to clamour over the rocks to the statue. Now, bus loads of tourists are disgorging onto the quayside every few seconds.
Gefion Fountain
We stop for a while to admire the Gefion Fountain, a huge tiered fountain depicting a Norse goddess and her four oxen who ploughed the island of Zealand out of Sweden.
St Alban’s Church
On of my favourite views in Copenhagen is looking back across the water of the Kastellet moat to the 19th Century St Alban’s Church.
Kastellet
Onwards to the star shaped Kastellet, where an 18th-century barracks sits surrounded by an equally star shaped moat. There is also a chapel and a historic windmill.
The Kastellet is open all day every day. There is no entry fee.
Glyptotek
From here, we catch a bus to the Glyptotek; the private art collection of the founder of Carlsberg, who made a few quid flogging beer. It houses a large collection of ancient and modern art from around the world, including sculptures, paintings, and artefacts. The bulk of the collection is sculptures, mainly ancient statues with no noses.
But there are also some great paintings; most of the big European names are represented; Van Gough, Degas, Monet, Picasso, Cezanne are all represented. Here is a couple of my favourites…
Much of the gallery is dedicated to The Changing Collection – when we visited, this was the work of Pierre Bonnard. It’s not my cup of tea and it feels slightly offensive to read his narrative on searching for the perfect colour, considering that he was writing during WWII from occupied France, when most people had much more pressing matters to contend with than shades of paint. So we head instead for the roof, from where there are great views across the city.
The museum is open daily except Monday from 10 am until 5 pm (9 pm on Thursday). Adult admission costs 150 DKK (around £17). There is a 10% discount for tickets purchased online in advance.
Tivoli Gardens
We had intended to go to the 19th Century theme park, Tivoli Gardens, which offers a range of rides, attractions, and entertainment options for visitors of all ages. But we have run out of time, so have to make do with a glimpse over the fence and a couple of photos from the exterior.
When open, the park is open daily from 11 am until at least 10 pm, longer at weekends and during the summer. The park closes between September and Easter, reopening briefly around Halloween and Christmas. There are a range of entrance fees, but the basic pass, just to get into the park, starts at 150 DKK (around £17) rising to 250 DKK (around £29) in peak season. A ticket including ride pass will set you back between 419 DKK and 499 DKK (around £48 to £57).
Copenhagen Day 2
Day Trip to Helsingør
Today, we’re taking a trip up the Zealand coast to Helsingør, home of Kronborg castle, the dramatic setting for Shakespeare’s Hamlet.
First, we need to purchase 24 hour travel cards from the ticket machine. The old man requests two tickets plus a receipt and the machine issues two cards; one ticket and one ticket with a receipt. However, he is convinced he has been issued with one ticket and one receipt. He calls the helpline to complain that he has paid for two tickets and only received one. Eventually, a lady who had been waiting patiently in the queue steps in and clears up the confusion. Once we have ascertained that we do, in fact, have two tickets, we catch a train to Helsingør.
Helsingør Station
It’s a pretty town from the offset as we disembark at the striking red brick Helsingør Station, which dates back to 1891. The main entrance is flanked by marble columns and surrounded by sculptures including statues of Hamlet and Ophelia.
Helsingør Harbour Promenade
From here, we walk along the Harbour Promenade. There are some interesting sculptures, including Han, The Little Merman. and a thought provoking fish made with rubbish retrieved from the harbour.
Kronborg Castle
We continue across a bridge to the spectacular 15th Century Kronborg Castle with its green spires standing proud above the fortified walls and surrounding moat.
We’re too tight to pay to go inside, so make do with a circuit around the edge taking photos, followed by a trip to the gift shop.
The castle is open daily from at least 11 am until 4 pm, longer in summer. Adult entry costs 145 DKK (around £17).
Helsingør
From here, we take a walk through the quaint town centre of Helsingør, stopping to buy provisions for a picnic by the waterfront, which is pleasant apart from two facts; 1) we are relentlessly circled by an enormous seagull and 2) it’s so windy I keep accidentally eating my own hair.
We return towards Copenhagen by bus because Lonely Planet recommends the bus, as it runs along the coast and is, therefore more scenic, than the train. They’re not kidding – if we were any nearer the coast we’d need snorkels and flippers. And nose-clips; in places, the smell of sewage is overpowering.
Karen Blixen Museum
We alight in Rungsted to visit the Karen Blixen Museum, which is in the former home of the famed author (Think Meryl Streep and “I had a house in Africa…”). You can take an audio guide of the house where she (Blixen, not Streep) lived as a child and where she returned to die after Robert Redford gave her syphilis.
You can also visit Blixen’s grave in the very picturesque garden.
The museum is open daily except Monday from 11 am until at least 5 pm (9 pm during the week). Entry costs DKK 100 (around £12).
- Trip Taken: June 2019
- Updated: April 2025
I hope you found the above information useful. For guides to more destinations in the 50+ countries we have visited, check out my full list of Independent Travel Itineraries here.
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