We spent 6 days is Croatia on our Balkan road trip, starting in the south in the ancient city of Dubrovnik, before continuing up the Adriatic coast to beautiful Split (in reality, we spent a few days in Bosnia in the interim). From there, we travelled inland to the spectacular Plitvice Lakes National Park. Then rounded our visit off in the capital, Zagreb. Below is our itinerary including attractions, accommodation and dining options. Croatia is actually split into two parts, divided by a small coastal strip of Bosnia and Herzegovina. To get from the Dubrovnik region to the rest of the country, you must pass through Bosnia.
| Day 1 | Dubrovnik Drive to Dubrovnik View Dubrovnik Accommodation – Blue Lagune Dubrovnik Old Town Pile Gate Large Onofrio Fountain Rector’s Palace City Bell Tower Sponza Palace Statue of Marin Držić Dubrovnik City Walls Old Port Porporella Beach Lokrum Island |
| Day 2 | Split Drive to Split Accommodation – Guesthouse Vrlic Diocletian’s Palace Peristil Cathedral of Saint Domnius Bell Tower Temple of Jupiter Harbourside Marjan Forest Park Drinks at Marjan Forest Park Viewpoint Gregory of Nin |
| Day 3 | Split Harbourside Brunch Meštrović Gallery Kaštilac Bačvice Dinner at Misto Street Food Factory |
| Day 4 | Split to Plitvice Drive to Plitvice Accommodation – Guest House Nenad |
| Day 5 | Plitvice Lakes National Park |
| Day 6 | Zagreb Drive to Zagreb Accommodation – 4citywindows Zrinjevac Strossmayer Square Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary Dolac Market Trg Bana Jelačića Funicular Railway Museum of Broken Relationships St Mark’s Church Stone Gate |
Croatia Day 1 – Dubrovnik
We start our visit to Croatia with a day in Dubrovnik. The ancient walled city overlooking the Adriatic is a very popular tourist attraction. Which makes it both crowded and expensive. The three main attractions in Dubrovnik; the city walls, the cable car and ferry to Lokrum will set you back a whopping €101. We decided we were happy just to wander the ancient streets and admire the view, so I planned a significantly more budget conscious schedule.
Drive to Dubrovnik
We only have a 57 mile drive today across the border from Kotor in Montenegro. It’s a straightforward drive along the Jadranska Magistrala (Adriatic Highway), voted Croatia’s most scenic road, with some spectacular coastal scenery along the way. It’s a relief to be back in the EU where my phone works for free, we can buy petrol that doesn’t make the car sad and it’s compulsory to label allergens in food.
View Dubrovnik
Just before the outskirts of the city is View Dubrovnik; a viewpoint giving you a spectacular panorama of the city, the Adriatic and island of Lokrum. The viewpoint (and parking) is free. In my opinion, this was just as good as taking the cable car for a similar view at a cost of €27. In addition, the viewpoint is open all year round, while the cable car is only open between March and November.
We reach Dubrovnik and try and find somewhere to park. It’s the hardest place I’ve ever tried to park and I’ve lived in 3 capital cities! We do a full circuit of the one way system. All the parking we can see is for residents only. On our second circuit, we find public parking, but it’s 1000 Kuna. That’s £110! We stop by the ticket barrier while I Google if I’ve actually got the exchange rate right (I have). So, we go round a third time. We finally find a hotel on the edge of town that will let non residents park for a mere £15 a night.
Accommodation – Blue Lagune
From here, it’s a kilometre walk to our apartment at Blue Lagune. Unfortunately, it is all up steps. Hundreds of steps. In 31 degrees heat. With luggage. By the time we arrive, we are very sweaty. But the owner is there with very welcome glasses of cold orange juice. The apartment is quite small, but comfortable. It opens onto a balcony with a view across to the old town.
Dubrovnik Old Town
We sit for a while admiring Dubrovnik from above, then set forth to explore the Old Town of Dubrovnik; an ancient walled city overlooking the Adriatic.
Pile Gate
The main entrance to the old city is through the ancient Pile Gate, which dates from 1537. Once through the gate, you are in the pedestrian area of Stradun. From here, a labyrinth of streets head towards the sea. We wander aimlessly admiring the quaint, narrow streets and old buildings.
Large Onofrio Fountain
Just inside the gates, you will find the Large Onofrio Fountain, one of Dubrovnik’s most famous landmarks. The circular fountain was built in the 15th Century as part of the city’s water supply system.
Rector’s Palace
Just before you reach the sea is the Rector’s Palace. The palace also dates from the 15th century, when it was built for the rector who governed Dubrovnik. The palace now houses the Cultural History Museum.
City Bell Tower
Next to the palace is the City Bell Tower. The original tower was built in the 15th Century, although the current structure is some 500 years newer. The bell rings every hour.
Sponza Palace
The Sponza Palace was built in the 16th Century. Initially a customs house, it has also seen use as a treasury, armoury, bank and school. It now houses the state archive.
Statue of Marin Držić
In front of the palace you will find the Statue of Marin Držić, a popular Croatian writer. Rubbing the statue’s nose is supposed to bring good luck.
Dubrovnik City Walls
The Dubrovnik City Walls are 1940 meters long and incorporate six fortresses. If you are prepared to fork out €40, you can walk round aforementioned walls. (We walked round the city walls of Budva the previous day for €3, so made do with admiring this rather overpriced tourist attraction from below).
Old Port
You can walk along the edge of the Old Port. From here, you also get a great view back across the city and Mount Srd in the background.
Porporella Beach
We take a cooling walk along the seafront to Porporella Beach. It’s not quite what I would call a beach, but there are steps where you can sit and dedicated bathing areas. We stop for a while for a paddle and to admire a surfing dog.
Lokrum Island
Then it’s time to ascend the hundreds of steps to our accommodation a second time, stopping at the supermarket to purchase a healthy supper of sausage rolls and beer, which is consumed on the balcony watching the sun set over Dubrovnik and the forested island of Lokrum.
If you want to admire Lokrum from closer up, there are regular ferries to the island between April and November. Tickets (covering the ferry and entry to the island) cost €34 for a day trip – it is not possible to stay on Lokrum overnight.
Croatia Day 2 – Split
Drive to Split
Today, we drive from Sarajevo to the coastal city of Split. After the rough roads of Bosnia, shortly after arriving in Croatia, we are on a pristine motorway with tarmac so shiny and smooth I could kiss it, although it’s 29 degrees so it would probably burn my lips. We descend from the mountains until we reach the coast and Split, Croatia’s second largest city.
As if karma has decided to give us a break, just as we pull up outside our accommodation on the edge of the old town, where parking is notoriously bad, a space becomes vacant. The landlady appears and tells us that if we put £1 in the meter, that’ll cover us for the weekend (as parking is free from 2 pm on Saturday until the rather random time of 6.47 on Monday morning).
Accommodation – Guesthouse Vrlic
The Guesthouse Vrlic is a family run guesthouse very close to the old town. It is very pleasant with clean, comfortable rooms, lovely hosts and a pretty garden. A great place to stay.
It has taken us just short of 5 hours to cover the 150 miles from Sarajevo, so we’re a little frazzled. But Split is such a lovely place, that it doesn’t take long to unwind. After chilling in our room for a while, we set off to see the city’s sights.
Diocletian’s Palace
Two things I know about Split; (1) it’s by the sea and (2) it has Roman stuff. We start with the Roman stuff; the Diocletian’s Palace to be more precise. This fortified town, built around courtyard, with a gate on each side (Iron, Bronze, Silver and Golden) was constructed for the Roman Emperor Diocletian in the 4th Century as a retirement home.
Peristil
In the centre is the Peristil; a colonnaded courtyard. Incorporated into the design were ancient Egyptian sphinxes plundered by the Romans.
Cathedral of St Domnius
To the left, is the octagonal Cathedral of St Domnius, built in the 4th century as a mausoleum for Diocletian, who was interred here in 311.
Bell Tower
Next to the cathedral is the Bell Tower. It stands 57 metres high and a looks rather like a wedding cake, with each tier smaller than the one below. It you’re brave, you can can climb a narrow, winding metal staircase to the top. The tower was initially built in the 14th Century and then rebuilt in 1908 after it collapsed – a fact which fills you with confidence as you commence your ascent…
I manage about two thirds before I end up clinging to a flimsy bannister in terror, unable to continue.
Temple of Jupiter
The Roman Temple of Jupiter is now part of the cathedral. Jupiter has been replaced by a statue of John the Baptist by Croatian sculptor and former Split resident, Ivan Meštrović.
Entry to Diocletian’s Palace is free, however you do need to pay to enter some buildings. There are a number of ticket options, ranging from €9 to €12. We purchased a green ticket for €12. This includes 3 sites: the Cathedral, the Bell Tower and the Treasury, where you can see some sculptures and paintings which relate to the Cathedral’s history.
Harbourside
We exit the city gate and take a walk along the harbourside, watching the hustle and bustle in the harbour with boat tours, ferries and cruise ships all jostling for position.
Marjan Forest Park
We round off the afternoon by climbing the 250 steps to the viewpoint in Marjan Forest Park. It’s hard work, but worth it for the great view over the city and the harbour.
Drinks at Marjan Forest Park Viewpoint
There is a bar at the top by the viewpoint, where you can take a drink whilst catching your breath and enjoying the view.
Gregory of Nin
Then we return to our guesthouse, via another sculpture by Ivan Meštrović; Gregory of Nin. It is supposed to bring you luck if you touch his toe, but he’s surrounded by a Chinese tour group and they’re taking no prisoners. So, we return to our room, where I fight a losing battle with a very unpredictable shower attachment – maybe I should have held out for a go on Gregory’s toe after all?
Croatia Day 3 – Split
Harbourside Brunch
We get up, purchase supplies from a local shop and walk along the Split harbourside, stopping for an al fresco brunch on a picnic bench overlooking the water. It’s almost like being back in Bournemouth, except it’s a sunny 28 degrees.
Meštrović Gallery
We continue walking along the harbour, until we reach the former home of Ivan Meštrović, now the Meštrović Gallery, where plenty of his sculptures are on display. A game the old man likes to play with sculptures: to stand next to it mimicking the pose. Either Mestrovic had some very flexible friends or else a vivid imagination. He also appears to have had an aversion to wearing clothes.
We visit the former home of Ivan Mestrovic where plenty of his sculptures are on display. A game the old man likes to play with sculptures: to stand next to it mimicking the pose. Either Mestrovic had some very flexible friends or else a vivid imagination. He also appears to have had an aversion for wearing clothes.
Kaštilac
After a stop for a drink in the gallery’s café overlooking the sea, we continue just down the road to an extension of the gallery; the Kaštilac.
Here, a small chapel houses more of Meštrović’s work, including a series of carved wooden panels depicting the life of Jesus.
By now, the heat is beginning to defeat us so we walk back into town, stopping to cool down with a tub of Slag ice cream -not likely to catch on in the UK…
I’m so sweaty it’s time to do battle with the shower once again. An invention that hasn’t reached the Balkans: the shower head attachment. Here, you have to hold the shower in your hand. Despite several tries, I can’t work out how to wash my hair. I have failed to do it one handed, and any attempt to put the shower down results in it turning into a crazy snake and spraying water all over the bathroom and beyond. And as for shaving my legs…
Bačvice
We finish our last day in Split with a walk round the port to the beach of Bačvice. Although it’s a Blue Flag beach, it’s a bit grubby compared to the pristine beaches of my home town of Bournemouth. But the view is good and a paddle in the cool water is a relief after the heat of the day, even if you do need to dodge soggy cigarette butts and used wet wipes.
Dinner at Misto Street Factory
We return to the edge of Diocletian’s Palace and have dinner at Misto Street Food Factory. This tiny restaurant has an interesting menu. I order a fish burger, which comes in a black bun. The old man orders fish stew, which also comes in a (very soggy) bun. An unusual but extremely tasty dinner. There isn’t much seating space inside, but there are tables and chairs outside where you can dine alongside the ancient palace walls.
On the way back to our guesthouse, we purchase dessert; a tub of Slag ice cream. Not likely to catch on in the UK…
Croatia Day 4 – Split to Plitvice
Drive to Plitvice
We get up early and set off on the 158 mile drive north to Plitvice National Park. It’s going to be a shock to the system; after 2 weeks of travelling in temperatures around 30 degrees, by night time it will be minus 2.
The majority of today’s route is along the A1, a lovely modern motorway, which is a relief after some of the gravel tracks we had to negotiate in Bosnia and Montenegro. It is, however, not cheap. In 100 miles, we notch up over £10 in tolls.
The drive is a spectacular mountain extravaganza. It’s an incredible piece of engineering, consisting of a series of bridges, raised sections and tunnels. One tunnel is 5800m. That’s more than a parkrun worth of tunnel. On the other side of the tunnel, the temperature has plummeted by 12 degrees and we are met by torrential rain.
By the time we reach Plitvice, the weather is hideous; it’s cold, it’s raining, the wind is blowing the trees sideways and visibility is almost nil. Going outside doesn’t seem like a great option, less still communing with nature. We try and check in to our accommodation early, but the room isn’t ready. So we buy some bread and cheese and have a picnic in the car in the supermarket car park.
Accommodation Guest House Nenad
The nice man from Guest House Nenad finishes cleaning our room and lets us check in two hours early. The view from the window across the forest is nice, which good because I have no intention of leaving the room. Guest House Nenad is not currently taking bookings.
After spending much of the afternoon watching the rain from our balcony, the weather finally breaks and we venture outside.
In the afternoon, we take a short walk around the edge of the park, find an ATM to pay the hotel bill (Croatia is very much a cash economy, which we aren’t used to, and we spent the last of our cash on petrol), buy some food and retire for the evening ready to make an early start tomorrow.
Croatia Day 5 – Plitvice Lakes National Park
We get up early and set off to Plitvice Lakes National Park; a spectacular chain of 16 lakes linked by a series of waterfalls.
Shuttle Bus
Once we have bought our ticket and selected which route to follow, we are taken by Shuttle Bus into the park. The bus consists of three carriages and we’re in the back one, which is quite disconcerting; the driver slows down for bends then accelerates out of them, which means we accelerate into the bends, which feels wrong. The Shuttle Bus runs every 30 minutes, with three stops within the park.
Once in the park, we commence our walk around the lakes. It’s not as easy as I’d expected; much of the route consists of boardwalks constructed from logs. They are uneven and not particularly flat, so walking on them requires an element of concentration.
The lakes, however are magnificent. When we arrive, there is still mist hanging over the water. As the mist clears, the turquoise colour of the lakes becomes apparent. The autumnal colour changing of the tree leaves adds to the palette on display. Also, a bonus of all yesterday’s rain is that the waterfalls are in full flow.
Electric Boat Ride
After a lovely two hour walk, we reach a jetty where a boat takes us to the top end of the lake. The Electric Boat has three stops on Kozjak Lake, with boats running every 30 minutes.
Our boat docks at midday. Up until this point, we have had a wonderful morning. However, once we land, we are in tour group hell. There are literally thousands of people, mostly in groups, attempting to walk in the opposite direction to us along the narrow boardwalks, with no handrails, suspended over the lakes. We spend an hour fighting our way along the boardwalks, while gangs of tour groups push and barge, stop to take photos, then push and barge some more.
By the time we reach the top, I have a headache from the whole ordeal of trying not to be knocked into a lake by someone with a Nikon with a foot long lens, who has just spotted a duck. We decide it’s time to leave the park.
It has been a mixed day; Plitvice is beautiful, but there needs to be a limit on visitor numbers and/or a one way system in place for a visit to be a totally enjoyable experience. The park is open daily from 7 am until 6 pm. An adult ticket costs between €10 and €40 depending on the season and time of day. The ticket includes the shuttle bus and boat rides.
We return to our accommodation, via the village store for supplies. Then have a picnic dinner on our balcony with a view.
Croatia Day 6 – Zagreb
Today is our final day in Croatia, and we are visiting the capital city of Zagreb.
Drive to Zagreb
The drive is all motorway, so progress is rapid but dull. After days of yearning for a decent road as we picked our way along Bosnian goat tracks and through Albanian roadworks, I’m bored of motorways now. The old man alleviates the boredom briefly by taking a wrong turn and accidentally heading for Austria.
Accommodation – 4citywindows
We check in to our B&B; 4citywindows, which is run by a lovely couple. We are in the Cartoon Room, which features hand drawn cartoons from war time animated films.
Our hosts help us plan a route to visit the old city and we set forth to peruse the various churches, notable buildings and parks. It’s a pleasant walk as most of the roads are pedestrian and there are plenty of parks and squares.
Zrinjevac
We start with a wander round the gardens of Zrinjevac, a pretty park with fountains, flower beds and sculptures.
Strossmayer Square
I can’t resist a bit of communist art and there are some interesting statues in Strossmayer Square.
Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary
Zagreb Cathedral (or the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, to give it its full name) with its twin spires dominates the city.
The cathedral is undergoing renovation. On display are new and old pieces of stonework to demonstrate the damage which has occurred over time. If pollution can cause so much damage to stone, what chance do our lungs have?
Dolac Market
Next, we cross the square to Dolac Market, vibrant with flowers and all manner of produce. We purchase some lunch from one of the stalls.
Trg Bana Jelačića
Then we sit on the edge of the statue in Trg Bana Jelačića to eat our calzones. It’s all glamour, this travelling malarkey! A peruse of my guide book tells me that the statue is of a 19th Century Viceroy, who led Croatia into battle against Hungary. During his reign, President Tito ordered it to be taken down, but after his demise, the statue was returned to its place in the square.
Funicular Railway
After lunch, we take the 18th century Funicular Railway to the Upper Town. The Zagreb Funicular is the oldest means of public transportation in Zagreb. At just 66 metres long, it claims to be the shortest funicular in the world. From the top, you can look out across the Lower Town. The Upper Town is the oldest part of Zagreb. You can wander through the ancient cobbled streets admiring some of the old buildings.
Museum of Broken Relationships
Next, we head for the intriguingly named Museum of Broken Relationships (somewhat ironically in Dverce street). People donate items which remind them of the end of a relationship, together with an explanation. There’s quite a range on display, from the moving (a mother’s suicide letter) to the more humorous (a Divorce Day mad dwarf thrown at an ex’s new car).
My guide book describes the museum as ‘quirky and innovative’. While some of it is interesting and poignant, there are many long-winded self-indulgent explanations of failed love affairs. However, it’s kind of a Zagreb must-see, so overall I’m glad we visited.
St Mark’s Church
We round our day of sightseeing off at St Mark’s Church. The roof, tiled in the colours of the Croatian flag, complete with coats of arms, is emblematic of the city, and indeed Croatia.
Stone Gate
We return to our accommodation via the imposing Stone Gate. The gate formed part of the old town’s fortifications and is the last remaining city gate.
- Trip taken: September 2018
- Updated: March 2025
I hope you found the above information useful. For guides to more destinations in the 50+ countries we have visited, check out my full list of Independent Travel Itineraries here.
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