We spent 3 weeks on our road trip round Costa Rica, visiting volcanoes and cloud forests before making our way down the coast. We then returned to San Jose, dropped off the hire car and spent a few days exploring the capital city. Below, is our itinerary. Although it’s actually slightly longer than 3 weeks, I contracted COVID in Puerto Jiménez and spent a few days in isolation.
Costa Rica 3 Week Road Trip Itinerary
| Day 1 | London to San Jose Flight to San Jose Accommodation – Hotel Your House |
| Day 2 | La Fortuna Drive to La Fortuna Bridge over the Rio Peñas Blancas Volcán Arenal Accommodation – Arenal Xilopalo Drinks at Lava Lounge La Fortuna Park San Juan Bosco Church Dinner from Panadería La Principal |
| Day 3 | La Fortuna Volcán Arenal National Park Sector Península Sector Volcán Dinner at Red Frog Coffee Roaster |
| Day 4 | La Fortuna La Fortuna Waterfall Bogarin Trail Dinner at Tiquicia |
| Day 5 | Liberia Drive to Liberia Accommodation – Hotel Las Espuelas Parque Central Iglesia Inmaculada Concepción de María Dinner at Masala |
| Day 6 | Liberia Rio Negro Thermal Springs Rincon de la Vieja National Park – Sector Las Pailas |
| Day 7 | Playa Hermosa Drive to Playa Hermosa Accommodation – El Velero Dinner at El Velero Playa Hermosa Beach |
| Day 8 | Playa Hermosa Breakfast at Restaurante Coco Víquez Marino Las Baulas National Park Playa Grande Dinner at Aquasport |
| Day 9 | Monteverde Breakfast at Restaurante Coco Víquez Drive to Monteverde Accommodation – Hotel Santa Fe B&B Wander round Monteverde |
| Day 10 | Monteverde Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve Monteverde Cheese Factory Dinner from Panadería el Hornito de Pilo |
| Day 11 | Monteverde Selvatura Park Dinner at Tree House Watch the Sunset from Mirador Valle Escondido |
| Day 12 | Manuel Antonio Drive to Manuel Antonio Tarcoles Bridge Jacó Viewpoint Quepos Accommodation – Hotel Manuel Antonio Playa Espadilla Dinner at Marlin Restaurante |
| Day 13 | Manuel Antonio Manuel Antonio National Park Manuel Antonio Sunset Dinner at Felafal Bar |
| Day 14 | Puerto Jiménez Drive to Puerto Jiménez Accommodation – Cabinas Jiménez Cycle round Puerto Jiménez Walk round Puerto Jiménez |
| Day 15 | Puerto Jiménez Malecón de Puerto Jiménez Puerto Jiménez Ferry Terminal Kayaking the Golfo Dulce |
| Day 16 | Puerto Jiménez |
| Day 17 | Uvita Drive to Uvita Accommodation Marino Ballena National Park Dinner at Fernando’s Restaurant |
| Day 18 | Uvita Whale watching |
| Day 19 | San Jose Drive to San Jose Accommodation – Casa Conde Hotel & Apartamentos |
| Day 20 | San Jose |
| Day 21 | San Jose |
| Day 22 | San Jose Parque La Sabana Museo de Arte Costarricense |
| Day 23 | San Jose Barrio Amón Parque Morazán Jardín de Paz Parque España Plaza de la Libertad Electoral Parque Nacional Estación del Ferrocaril Dinner from Restaurante Kay |
| Day 24 | San Jose Brunch at Restaurante el Patio del Balmoral Museo Nacional de Costa Rica MADC Parque Central Accommodation – Hampton By Hilton San Jose Airport Dinner at Rosti |
Costa Rica Day 1 – London to San Jose
Flight to San Jose
Time for another trip – this time to Central America, first stop Costa Rica. It’s the first time we’ve travelled with British Airways for many years. And there’s a reason for that. It’s not a great start, with a last minute change from an 11.30 to a 9 am departure. So we decide to travel to Gatwick the night before and stay at the less than salubrious White House Hotel in an executive room, which frankly I can’t imagine any self respecting executive would be seen dead in.
We’re up at 6 am for our taxi to the airport. Once there, it takes an hour to make it to the front of the check in queue to be told the flight is running 30 minutes late. We head through security. Now the delay has gone up to an hour. So we opt for a Wetherspoons breakfast. There’s a surprising number of people drinking beer for so early in the morning. We finally board the aircraft to be told they’re a crew member down and we must wait for a standby to arrive. Another 30 minutes delay before we’re finally ready to take off for the 11.5 hour flight to San Jose.
Accommodation – Hotel Your House
By the time we finally disembark at San Jose, we have been sitting in the plane for 13 hours and I am tired, hungry and grumpy. Another hour sees us through immigration and customs, then we have to contact our first night’s accommodation – Hotel Your House who, it is claimed, will send a shuttle to collect us in 10 minutes. It actually takes 30 minutes before we are finally collected in a tiny car with a boot somewhat smaller than our suitcase. With some pushing and shoving, we finally manage to get the suitcase in and drive the short distance to the hotel.
The sun set while we were standing outside the airport waiting for our lift, so our first glimpse of Costa Rica is of the highway in the dark. The accommodation consists of a row of motel style rooms built in the owner’s garden. She is also has a dog. Once we’ve checked in, she leads the way to our room, armed with a dustpan and brush to clear the way of dog poo.
Prolifically poopy dog aside, it’s a nice place to spend our first night. We picked Hotel Your House because of its proximity to the airport. Note: The closest city to San Jose Airport, or Juan Santamaría International Airport to give it its correct title, is Alajuela. If you’re just passing through, it’s better to stay here than trek into San Jose.
Tired from the journey and time difference, we pretty much go straight to bed at 8 pm. The adventures will have to wait until tomorrow…
Costa Rica Day 2 – La Fortuna
This morning is our first full day in Costa Rica. I am awake at 5 am (which is actually 11 am in the UK and also in my stomach). Two hours until breakfast and I’m starving. At 6 am it gets light and I can brave going outside to sit in the garden without standing in anything produced by the little dog. It’s a pretty garden with a gazebo and plunge pool set among the shrubs. Breakfast is served in a clearing in the garden and is very tasty – fried rice and beans, omelette, sausage and plantain. Although I go off my food a bit when I see quite how often the cook fondles the little dog whilst cooking.
After breakfast, we take a walk to find a shop to stock up on supplies. The accommodation is just off the main airport road so it’s not the most scenic walk, but it’s nice to be somewhere warm and sunny away from the British winter. Once we have found a store and stocked up on essentials (diet coke and crisps), it’s back to the hotel and a little relax in the garden until it’s time to collect our hire car.
Drive to La Fortuna
We check out of the hotel to pick up our car. Car hire is very expensive in Costa Rica, so we have gone right to the bottom of the budget options with Mex Rent a Car. Even that is setting us back $942 for 18 days. We are issue with a Toyota Rush. It’s definitely seen better days (years even), which is fine. Last time we hired a 4WD car was in California. It was pristine with only a few miles on the clock and we were terrified of actually taking it off road. No such problems here. We could probably drive it off a cliff and get away with it!
We set off for today’s destination – La Fortuna. It’s a 73 mile drive, starting on the main Route 1 for 25 miles, then onto a smaller road. It’s a bit pot holey, but not as bad as I’d anticipated.
Bridge over the Rio Peñas Blancas
The most interesting part of the journey is the rickety rackety Bridge over the Rio Peñas Blancas. It looks like it was made from Meccano and you have to queue up to cross, as it can only take one vehicle at a time. Just after the bridge is a viewpoint, so we pull over to take some photos and a walk back across the bridge. It’s a long way down – one of us walks further across the bridge than the other!
Volcán Arenal
Shortly after, we turn a corner and there is Volcán Arenal standing over a mile high with clouds just obscuring its peak – it’s quite a sight! On a good day, you can see the volcano from all over la Fortuna. This is our first spectacular glimpse. After a brief photo stop, we reach the town at the foot of the volcano; La Fortuna and our hotel for the next three nights; Arenal Xilopalo.
Accommodation – Arenal Xilopalo
The Arenal Xilopalo hotel is literally at the end of the road, with rows of cabins with verandas set in gardens full of all sorts of wildlife. Before we’ve even finished checking in, we spot a huge iguana walking along a branch outside reception and a hummingbird.
We finally complete check in despite the various wildlife interludes and are shown to our room. It is very pleasant and has a volcano view. The staff attach bananas to the tree directly outside our window which attracts an abundance of birds.
After we have explored our new accommodation and sat on the veranda admiring the view for a while, we take a wander into central La Fortuna. This small, touristy town is lined with bars, restaurants and souvenir shops.
Drinks at Lava Lounge
La Fortuna has plenty of bars and cafes to choose from. We opt for Lava Lounge because its elevated location and partially open air lounge provide a great view of both the volcano and the town. They also have a great selection of locally brewed craft beers.
La Fortuna Park
The central point is pretty little La Fortuna Park with fountains, flower beds and possibly volcano views. When we visited, clouds were starting to form over the volcano and only the bottom was visible.
San Juan Bosco Church
Next to the park is San Juan Bosco Church, whose squat steeple is dwarfed by the volcano in the background.
Dinner from Panadería La Principal
We stop at Panadería la Principal, drawn in by the window displays bulging with a huge array of delicious breads and cakes. It is in the centre of town, opposite the church. We purchase two Trenzas (Spanish for plait); these braided breads come in both savoury and sweet varieties. We opt for one stuffed with chicken, cheese and beans and for dessert, one stuffed with cream cheese and pineapple.
We eat our dinner (which is delicious) on the bench outside our room with its volcano backdrop, watching dozens of exotic birds feasting on the bananas. The combination of jetlag, an early start and a long drive (followed by a couple of beers) means we are settled in our room with no desire to move again by 5 pm. To be honest, the view is so amazing that moving seems counterproductive. I could happily just sit on my veranda for the next 3 days…
We watch the sun set over the volcano which threatens to be stunning, before clouds descend and obscure everything. Then take an early night before setting off for a more up-close volcano encounter in the morning.
Costa Rica Day 3 – La Fortuna
Volcán Arenal National Park
It rained in the night. A lot. We went to bed in a cabin surrounded by gardens and woke up surrounded by a moat. We decide to stick with our original plan to go to Volcán Arenal National Park, despite the fact that the volcano is barely visible behind the clouds.
Volcán Arenal, measuring 1600 m in height, with its peak standing proud above the rain forest (often topped by cloud) makes for spectacular views for miles around. As it is technically an active volcano, climbing Arenal is not permitted, however you can visit the National Park at its base. Here, several trails will furnish you with even more spectacular views of the volcano and of Lake Arenal.
Arenal Volcano National Park is a 16 km drive from La Fortuna. The first 14 km is along the main road (Route 142), then take a left turn onto the Calle Real el Castillo. After 2 km, you will reach the main park entrance (Sector Volcán). It is an easy drive along paved roads. The drive to the main entrance is uneventful, apart from an emergency stop for a couple of coati in the middle of the road (actually it’s more of an emergency stop for a couple of cyclists who brake suddenly to take photos of the coatis).
The park is divided into two sectors; Sector Volcán and Sector Península. Opening hours are from 8 am to 4 pm. As we arrive at 8 am and there is a queue of vehicles waiting to enter Sector Volcán, we opt to visit Sector Península first.
Sector Península
To reach Sector Península we have to go off road. Very off road. Turn right by the main park entrance to tackle the 2 km drive along an extremely bumpy track. As we bounce our way over the rocks, we’re suddenly very grateful to Mex Rent a Car for giving us such a decrepit vehicle. I wouldn’t recommend driving this unless you have a 4WD vehicle. The trail finally brings you to the park entrance.
There is plenty of car parking right outside the entrance. We purchase our entry ticket. This is valid for both sectors, so if you plan to visit both, keep it somewhere safe (mine went into my bumbag with other essential items; phone, face mask, emergency Oreos…)
Costa Rican national parks are very eco friendly; there are no paper maps or guides available. So it is necessary to consult the map at the entrance and preferably take a screen shot before setting off.
Sendero los Miradores
We set off along the Sendero los Miradores, which is surprisingly well paved bearing in mind the road we had to drive down to reach it. The trail leads through the rainforest to a platform over the lake, where you can take photos (as long as you watch out for crocodiles). Half way down is an observation tower you can climb for views of the lake and the volcano (in theory, although it’s still shrouded by cloud).
Observation Tower
Half way down the trail is an Observation Tower which you can climb for views of the lake and the volcano (in theory, although it’s still shrouded by cloud).
Lake Arenal
Just past the crocodile warning sign, is the final viewpoint; a platform over the volcanic Lake Arenal which sits at the foot of the volcano.
Sendero El Tororoi
To return to the car park, you can either retrace your steps, or half way up the trail, take a right turn onto the Sendero El Tororoi. We choose to follow the Sendero el Tororoi. This trail is a short (600m), but steep loop off the main trail, through the rain forest, via a lot of steps and a bridge. we can hear, but not see, howler monkeys in the trees around us.
Sector Volcán
We return along the bouncy track to the Sector Volcán. Once you have shown your ticket at the gate (restrooms are also located here), you can drive a few hundred metres further to the car park at the trail head for the two main hiking trails.
Sendero las Coladas
First, Sendero las Coladas; a 2 km path which takes you to a bridge, from where you can climb onto a lava flow created when the volcano erupted in 1992.
Sendero el Ceibo
To return, you can either retrace your steps or take a left turn to follow the Sendero el Ceibo; a 3 km loop off the main trail. The Trail is named after a 400 year old, 30 metres tall Ceiba Tree. It’s so big you can climb in between its massive roots.
Mirador Principal
It has rained on and off all day, but as we are almost back at the car, it starts to bucket down. We make a run for it, but still get soaked. Once back at the trail head, it is a 1.3 km walk/drive along the Camino Vehicular to the final lookout, the Mirador Principal. We decide to drive because of the rain. This viewpoint is supposed to provide the best view of the volcano. By now, we can’t even work out where the volcano is, so we give up and head back into town.
Dinner at Red Frog Coffee Roaster
La Fortuna has a plethora of restaurants to choose from. We select the Red Frog Coffee Roaster and order the Comida Típica; a choice of meat with rice, beans, plantain, mashed potato and salad. I choose the vegetarian option, which is basically the same but without the meat. All the carbs represented – they’ve even stuck some tortilla chips in the mashed potato for good measure!
We return for another early night – it’s been a long day with a lot of walking and we are rather weary.
Costa Rica Day 4 – La Fortuna
It’s our last day in La Fortuna and there is no rain forecast for a full 6 hours. However, the volcano remains stubbornly hidden behind the clouds.
La Fortuna Waterfall
This morning’s activity is a trip to La Fortuna Waterfall; a waterfall on the outskirts of town, which is accessed via a flight of 530 steps – a jolly sensible activity for two old codgers with dodgy knees!
The short drive from the town of La Fortuna to the waterfall is all along paved roads. This brings you to a large, free car park. As the ticket desk, we pay the entry fee, get issued with wristbands and set off down the steps to the waterfall. The path is well maintained and easy to negotiate with handrails all the way down. The view is quite spectacular – presumably aided by all yesterday’s rain – as the water thunders 70 metres over the cliff top into a pool below.
At the bottom is another lookout, or you can go hard core and actually swim beneath the waterfall. It’s very rocky, so difficult to access, plus the rocks are wet, therefore slippery and the current is strong. The old man braves a dip in the pool. In my opinion, it’s more of a spectator activity. Most people appear to be pretending to get in, taking a photo, then not actually climbing over the slippery boulders into the freezing water.
I wuss out and opt to swim further downriver. It’s lovely and refreshing, although the force of the waterfall makes it a bit like swimming in an infinity pool. I happily swim hard towards the waterfall then float back downstream multiple times.
Then we have to climb the 530 steps back to the entrance. It takes less time than I’d anticipated. The area is beautifully landscaped and there are inspirational quotes (and step counts) along the way to spur you on, plus seating areas in case you need a break mid climb.
Orchid Garden
At the top, included in the ticket price, is an Orchid Garden. Although there weren’t any orchids when we visited in January (apparently they bloom in May), it’s still a pleasant walk amidst the flowers and foliage of the rainforest.
Bogarin Trail
After lunch, we decide it’s time to find sloths. We haven’t spotted any in the wild, so head for a rainforest trail, where you can pay for the privilege of looking for sloths. There are several sloth trails around La Fortuna. We opted for the Bogarin Trail because it had a self guided tour option. Guided tours are also available, but we found that wherever there was a sloth, there was a group of people gathered, so a guide wasn’t really necessary. Bogarin is just off the main road, Route 142, on the outskirts of La Fortuna. The trail is around 2.5 kilometres long, and reasonably well signposted.
We walk along the trails, necks aching from constantly looking up, toes hurting from tripping on tree roots because we’re not looking where we’re going. We see plenty of wildlife (birds and agouti) but no sloths.
Eventually we spot two sloths– a mother and baby. To be more accurate, we spot a group of people looking up a tree, rather than actually spotting the sloths. It’s quite exciting, apart from the fact that they don’t really do anything except hang from a tree. They are also hanging very high up in the tree, which makes them difficult to see/photograph.
We walk around for 90 minutes but don’t find any more, so we follow a sign saying ‘Trail Reception 100 metres’. The old man is adamant that this is not the way we came, but we continue to follow the signs regardless. Unfortunately, it’s the reception for a different sloth trail to the one we started at. So we end up having to walk down the main road and round the block to where we parked the car, with the old man harping on about how he told me so. With sloths finally ticked off the ‘to do’ list, our time in La Fortuna is almost at an end.
Dinner at Tiquicia
Today has involved quite a lot of walking. We refuel with some typical Costa Rican food. We opt for Tiquicia, a kilometre south of town on Route 702. This cosy little restaurant is a little further out of town than most, but is well worth the trip. The food is amazing. I especially enjoyed the starter of patacones (plantain which is fried, mashed, formed into pancakes and fried again). I was too busy stuffing my face to take a photo!
Costa Rica Day 5 – Liberia
Drive to Liberia
It’s our final morning in La Fortuna and it rained heavily in the night. The volcano has disappeared completely behind a thick blanket of cloud and our last chance of seeing it in its entirety has gone. Never mind, it’s time to move on to another volcano – Rincon de la Vieja. As accommodation around the volcano itself is expensive, we are staying in the nearby town of Liberia.
Drive to Liberia
Today’s drive is 80 miles, the first half of which skirts the shore of Lake Arenal. So, the plan is to go slow with plenty of photo stops, arriving at our hotel in Liberia around lunch time. By then, the temperature should be 32 degrees. Luckily, it has a pool!
Unfortunately, the drive round Lake Arenal turns out to be somewhat underwhelming; there are very limited opportunities to actually see it due to vegetation and even when we can, the road is too narrow and winding to stop safely. Once we reach the north west corner of the lake, the road takes three sides of a square to join Route 1; the Inter American Highway. Google Maps sends us along a short cut (the 4th side of the square). It’s unpaved, extremely bumpy and very steep. It’s significantly shorter, but with hindsight, I think we should have gone round. At least we finally get a good view of the lake when we reach the top.
On the hill is an enormous wind farm, and then, once over the top, we rejoin the actual paved road. It’s like entering a different world; we leave behind the cool, green rainforest and all of a sudden we’re on the hot, red plains of Guancaste – cattle country.
Accommodation – Hotel Las Espuelas
Soon, we reach the highway and drive the final 25 miles to tonight’s destination – Hotel Las Espuelas – a roadside motel ion the outskirts of Liberia. We reach the motel 90 minutes before check-in. Although it’s on the side of the motorway, it’s surprisingly quiet and serene inside the hotel itself. The accommodation is in rows of cabins, leading to a very nice pool.
There is no chance of an early check in. No matter, I settle myself down the pool. 100 laps later, we can finally check in.
We head into town for a wander and dinner. By now it’s gone 3 and the combination of no lunch and a long swim are taking their toll. A read of Lonely Planet’s guide to Liberia has left us with low expectations. The first thing we notice about the town is that many of the roads are one way, so getting where you want to go isn’t as simple as it sounds.
Parque Central
We finally reach the centre of town and park up near Parque Central. We take a wander around the park (which is really just a plaza) and take the obligatory photo next to the Liberia sign.
Iglesia Inmaculada Concepción de María
Overlooking the church is the very modern, very white Iglesia Inmaculada Concepción de María.
Dinner at Masala
For dinner, we opt for a nearby Indian restaurant, Masala. By the time the food comes, I’m ravenous, but it’s worth the wait – Palak Paneer served with cumin rice. Delicious!
Costa Rica Day 6 – Liberia
Today, we are going to Rincon de la Vieja National Park. It’s a 17 mile drive from our hotel to the park, starting on Route 1, before we have to turn off onto a smaller road. With 6 miles to go, we run out of paved road and the bouncing around in the gravel begins. A few miles later, there is a sign saying we are entering private land and must pay 700 colones each (about £1) to continue. Unexpected as we’re heading for a National Park, but the man has a gun, so we don’t argue.
Rio Negro Hot Springs
Our first destination en route to the park is Rio Negro Hot Springs; a series of pools, situated along the river, heated by thermal springs from the volcano. The obvious thing to do would be go to the National Park, hike the trail, then return via the springs to relax afterwards. We opt to head to the springs first to avoid peak visiting time. We are in luck; we arrive at 9 am, just as the springs open and there is no-one else around.
The $30 entrance fee gets you entry to the thermal springs plus a mud treatment and access to a short trail leading to a series of four small waterfalls. Towels are also provided. A 400 metre walk along a trail brings you, via changing rooms, to the pools. There are ten pools which range in temperature from pleasantly warm to f*** me that’s hot.
There’s also an opportunity to cover yourself in volcanic mud, which is alleged to have therapeutic properties. It’s not as exotic as it sounds – an attendant in wellies hands over half a coconut shell full of mud for us to smother on ourselves, then it’s time to sit on a rock and wait for it to dry…
After relaxing in the pools, covering ourselves in mud and a further pool dip to ensure most of the mud is out of our orifices, we take a walk along the waterfall trail included in the ticket.
Rincon de la Vieja National Park
A 10 minute drive brings you from the thermal springs to Rincon de la Vieja National Park car park. Rincon de la Vieja is an active volcano and the park at its base provides visitors with the opportunity to hike trails past volcanic features and to bath in thermal springs heated by the volcanic activity beneath their feet.
Sector Las Pailas
The park is divided into two sectors; Sector La Pailas and Sector Santa Maria. Due to volcanic activity, when we visited, only Sector la Pailas was open.
Sendero la Pailas
The most popular trail within this sector of the park is the 3.5 km long Sendero las Pailas. This takes you over a hanging bridge onto a circuit with four viewpoints offering the chance to see various volcanic features. Towards the end, is an optional fifth viewpoint, accessed via a flight of steps, to a seasonal waterfall.
Fumarolic Lagoon
A lake with volcanic activity at its base, the fumaroles create the bubbles in the water.
Mud Pots
Rings of bubbling, stinking mud burst forth.
Mini Volcano
Volcanic activity in miniature.
Steam Vents
Vents of steam escape the earth and glisten in the sunlight.
Seasonal Waterfall
We visited during dry season, so the waterfall was a bit underwhelming.
It’s 32 degrees, the trail is longer than anticipated and we run out of water long before we reach the end. Just as I think things can’t get any worse, a snake slithers across our path! When we do finally do reach the end, we’re hot and dehydrated and the café is shut. We return to town stopping en route at Walmart for water and empanadas to refuel after our hike, followed by a lovely cool swim in the pool. Tomorrow it’s time to hit the Pacific coast.
Costa Rica Day 7 – Playa Hermosa
Today, we are heading to the beach; to the Pacific coast. It’s only a 20 mile drive, so there’s time for a leisurely breakfast – apart from the bit where we have to fight tooth and nail for a go on the toaster and a morning swim.
Drive to Playa Hermosa
As the temperature hits 32 degrees, it’s time to check out and head for the beach/village of Playa Hermosa. It’s a straightforward drive, mostly along Route 21.
Accommodation – El Velero
As it’s the weekend, accommodation was in short supply and the old man has been forced to splash out. Our hotel, El Velero, is therefore less budget than we are used to and boasts a pool and a private beach.
Of all the hotels we’ve stayed in so far, it’s the most expensive and, it turns out, my least favourite. The pool is tiny and there isn’t really a private beach. It’s heaving and there’s an abundance of yappy little dogs. But the room is cool and comfortable. Most welcome on such a hot day.
Dinner at el Velero
We’re too early to check in, so head instead to the hotel restaurant, which spreads from the hotel, out onto the beach, and order dinner (and beer). We wait and wait for our food to be served. Ironically, I have ordered from the ‘fast food’ menu. After a full hour of staring out to sea while the old man plays candy crush, my sandwich finally arrives.
Playa Hermosa Beach
Sandwich devoured, we can finally check in and take a walk along Playa Hermosa Beach. It consists of a dark brown material, somewhere between mud and sand – reminiscent of Weston-Super-Mare. My hotel floor says it’s mud. It seems to get everywhere and I end up putting a towel on the floor by the bed so I can wipe my feet before climbing in, a bit like an Olympic shot putter.
Once we have cooled down (and cleaned up) after our walk, we venture out one more time to watch the sunset before retiring for the night.
Costa Rica Day 8 – Playa Hermosa
Breakfast at Restaurante Coco Víquez
After waiting for an hour for a sandwich at the hotel restaurant yesterday, we opt to have breakfast elsewhere. The old man has chosen Restaurante Coco Víquez, which does a buffet style breakfast. He’s very disappointed when he discovers it’s not self service. And there’s no return visits. I’m happy with my plate of pancakes, pineapple and plantain.
Marino Las Baulas National Park
When I planned our trip I had hoped to stay somewhat further south, close to Marino Las Baulas National Park, where you can take a guided tour to watch leatherback turtles come ashore to lay their eggs. However, the park is 42 miles away from our hotel and the tours don’t start until after dark. We don’t fancy driving such a long distance back in the dark, late at night. We decide to visit the National Park anyway, as the guide book says you can take boat trips into the mangroves to see crocodiles and monkeys during the day.
We set off for Las Baulas. There appears to be two possible routes; one is 30 miles long and the other is 42 miles. Both take around 70 minutes to drive. Google Maps initially suggests the longer route, then at the last minute, changes its mind. Google also seems to think the park is closed on Sundays, despite the park’s own website claiming it is open daily. We opt for the shorter route. With 20 miles to go, we run out of tarmac, as we turn off a numbered road onto a road named ‘monkey trail’. It’s basically a series of potholes held together with dust. We can’t face the prospect of 20 miles of this, so turn round, drive half way back to Playa Hermosa and follow the longer, paved route instead.
We finally reach the park after a 2 hour drive in 32 degree heat. It is, of course, closed. A man appears from nowhere and offers us a go in his canoe for $80. The old man is tempted, but I am over the heat and the stress of the day. In addition, there is no evidence that the man actually owns a canoe!
Playa Grande
So, we take a walk along the Playa Grande instead, pay another man an inordinate amount of money for parking on a bit of scrub for 40 minutes and drive back to our hotel.
We stop at a supermarket to buy some lunch. There is a selection of unlabelled baked goods. I choose a couple at random. We end up with chicken empanadas and something that looks like a sausage roll but is actually full of lemon curd.
Dinner at Aquasport
We round the day off with a swim, followed by a wander along the beach to watch the sunset. For dinner we go to Aquasport; a beachside bar, which appears to be frequented primarily by very drunk Americans trying desperately to get laid. And thus ends our last day in Playa Hermosa. Tomorrow we travel inland to the cloud forest of Monteverde.
Costa Rica Day 9 – Monteverde
Breakfast at Restaurante Coco Viquez
Today we have a 3 hour drive to Monteverde. First, time for a buffet breakfast at Coco Viquez; pancakes with plantain and pineapple again – yay! With a month of our trip left, I’m already starting to panic about sourcing my plantain habit when we return to Bournemouth. After the chaos of the weekend and hoards of day trippers, Playa Hermosa quiet today. The only evidence of the weekend crowds are the bags of garbage left behind being picked over by vultures.
Drive to Monteverde
Once I have laid out yesterday’s laundry on the drying rack (aka back seat of the car) we set off on the drive from the coast to the cloud forest of Monteverde. Google Maps has a last minute change of route, resulting in a 78 mile drive which will take (allegedly) 3 hours. It’s pigging hot and I’m torn between drinking enough to avoid dehydration and the fact that there are no service stations (I’ve already seen two snakes today so I won’t be peeing in a bush!)
The first 20 miles is on good roads and the next 31 miles is motorway. That leaves us with 27 miles and an ETA of 85 minutes – that’s an average of 19 MPH. We actually take almost 2 hours – so about 14 MPH. The tarmac disappears and it’s narrow and bumpy and windy and steep, with a lot of bridges with no guard rails. And a lot of cows. Not the best 2 hours of my life. There’s also a lot of ascent and descent – mainly ascent.
After a while, the combination of gradient and terrain mean the old man has to turn the A/C off as the engine can’t cope with both. We are now 1400 metres above sea level and it’s so windy we have to make an emergency stop when the old man’s hat blows off. Finally, as we approach the edge of town, we spot tarmac. I didn’t realise I could get excited about the sight of tarmac!
Accommodation – Hotel Santa Fe B&B
With great relief, we reach our destination; Hotel Santa Fe B&B. It’s on a very steep plot and our first attempt at parking fails when the hand brake can’t cope and the car starts to roll back down the hill. Luckily, the hotel provides wedges to stick behind the wheels and we get safely parked.
We check in, then go and purchase supplies from a nearby supermarket for lunch. It’s been a stressful journey and a couple of tins of beer are in order. We have lunch on the bench outside our hotel, which offers a great view across the valley.
Wander round Monteverde
After a little rest, we take a walk into Monteverde. We’re a mile above sea level and there’s a fierce wind. We only progress a few metres before deciding jumpers are in order. The walk into town is down a steep hill.
We take a look around at the various cafes, bakeries and souvenir shops, we heave ourselves back up the hill again. It’s been a long day. Time for an early night before a trip to the cloud forest reserve in the morning.
Costa Rica Day 10
Not the best night’s sleep as the bed is small and uncomfortable. We get up and have breakfast – which reviews describe as ‘simple but tasty’. They’re half right! It comes with juice of some indeterminable fruit (it tastes like flat Vimto). We ask the proprietor what flavour it is. He doesn’t know either, goes and checks the packet and returns to tell us it’s grape’ The old man asks for different juice and a new packet is duly opened – this time it’s pineapple and drinking it makes my eyes water.
Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve
After breakfast, we head to Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve. It’s only two miles away, but a few hundred metres higher in elevation, which brings us up into the clouds.
The car park is a kilometre away from the reserve, opposite the Selina Hotel. The parking fee includes a shuttle bus to the entrance. At the entrance, we wait in a long queue to purchase tickets, then a member of staff shows us a map. Although there are a number of trails, when we visited, several were inaccessible as the hanging bridge had collapsed.
Sendero Nuboso
We select the Sendero Nuboso. This 2 km long trail takes you right through the heart of the cloud forest with lush green vegetation on either side and leads to the Sendero la Ventana.
Sendero La Ventana
The Sendero La Ventana is short but steep. From here, we are promised a viewpoint across the Continental Divide (water on one side of the line flows into the Pacific Ocean and on the other side, into the Atlantic/Caribbean). When we reach the viewpoint, it’s so cloudy there’s little to see.
We wait a while and are eventually rewarded with a partial view of the Continental Divide.
Sendero Camino
The return to the entrance you can either retrace your steps or take the Sendero Camino. This will make around a two hour round hike if you stop to take as many pictures as I do!
We catch the shuttle bus back to the car and drive back into town. I decide I want to stop to photograph a telegraph pole. The old man parks closer to the edge of the road than I realise. I try to climb out of the car onto the road, but there isn’t any road left, so I end up on my arse in the ditch.
Monteverde Cheese Factory
On the way back into town, we stop at Monteverde Cheese Factory. This used to be a locally owned factory, which provided tours of the cheese making process. Now it is owned by a multinational company and just the shop remains accessible to the public.
The old man purchases an ice cream, which he eats in the pretty courtyard, and I buy some locally produced cheese for lunch.
Dinner from Panadería el Hornito de Pilo
Back in Monteverde, we stop for further provisions at Panadería el Hornito de Pilo, which sells delicious pizzas, empanadas, cakes, bread… Then we return to our hotel for a picnic on the bench outside our room, while watching a rainbow emerging from the clouds.
Costa Rica Day 11
After another rubbish night’s sleep in the rubbish bed, we get up and go for breakfast. The toxic pineapple juice makes a return appearance. He also brings a jug. I hear agua para ti (water for you) so attempt to dilute my juice. Apparently, he said agua para té (water for tea) and it’s boiling water, which causes the fluorescent yellow liquid to bubble alarmingly.
Selvatura Park
This morning, we are heading to Selvatura Park for a 3 km treetop walkway consisting of 8 bridges, the longest being almost 200 metres long. I’m terrified of heights and very much prefer to have my feet firmly on the ground. My fear of heights is not helped by the ferocious wind. Why anyone would want to walk across 8 rope bridges at all is beyond me. Let alone when it’s blowing a gale!
We opt not to take the park’s free transport, as that restricts you to how long you can stay at the park. It’s only a short (6 km) drive from Monteverde to Selvatura Park, but after the first couple of kilometres, you leave the paved road and the rest of the journey is along rather bumpy tracks. Google Maps told us it would be 20 minute drive. Google Maps was being a little optimistic! At the end, there is ample free parking. And once you have paid $98 for the privilege of being scared witless, you can set off along the 3 km long Treetop Walkways Trail.
Bridge 1
We start, not surprisingly, with Bridge 1; at a mere 65 metres long and 17 metres high, it is just a warm up for the main attraction. It’s going OK until a third of the way across, when I suddenly encounter a snake lying on the bridge with its head reared up towards me. And I thought my fear of heights was the biggest obstacle I had to face today! I’m stuck half way across a bridge with a snake in my path. It’s like something out of a nightmare! I finally summons up the courage to pass the snake, cross the bridge and move onto the next bridge.
Bridge 2
Bridge 2 is 82 metres long and 19 metres high. It’s like they’re gently cranking up the fear factor. At least this one is reptile free.
Bridge 3
Bridge No 3 is 115 metres long and 34 metres high. This one has an added obstacle; there is a German couple sitting cross legged in the middle taking artsy selfies of each other. I take a look down – the ground is way too far away – and barge through the photo shoot onto solid ground.
Bridge 4
On to number 4; this is the the biggest bridge at 157 metres long! (And 31 metres high). You can’t even see the other end. It must only take a couple of minutes to cross, but it’s like being stuck in a bad dream with the end never seeming to get any closer. The old man says something ridiculous like ‘wow look at the view’. That’s exactly what I’m trying not to do as the view is a very long way down.
Bridge 5
After that, the bridges start to decrease in length again with bridge No 5 being a mere 120 metres long and 28 metres high. I can even stop to admire the view.
Bridge 6
Bridge 6 is a breeze at 57 metres long and 18 metres high.
Bridge 7
Bridge 7 is an easy 90 metres long and 25 metres high. I’m finally getting the hang of this…
Bridge 8
Finally, bridge 8, at 90 metres long and 20 metres high, brings the ordeal to an end. Once you have completed the full 8 bridge trail and returned to main entrance, there are other attractions on offer; a canopy trail complete with zipwire, sloth trail, butterfly garden and reptile exhibition.
Selvatura Park is open daily from 8.30 am until 4 pm. Entry to the Treetop Walkway Trail costs $49. The cost of tickets includes hotel pick up. If you opt for hotel pick up, there are four daily time slots: (8.30 am, 11 am, 1 pm or 2.30 pm) and the bus will pick you up around 30 minutes before your selected start time. Attractions are priced separately. Alternatively, there are a range of packages available. The All Day package, which includes everything, will set you back $186.
Dinner at Tree House
We drive back into town and stop for dinner at Tree House; a restaurant built around a 100 year old fig tree. It’s a novel dining experience (reflected in the price) but the food is very good.
We opt to skip dessert and instead pick up some guava strudels from el Hornito de Pilo on the way back to the hotel.
Watch the Sunset from Mirador Valle Escondido
After a break to get over the trauma of my treetop walk, we head out again in the evening to watch the sunset from Mirador Valle Escondido, which is just outside town. Follow Route 620 towards the Cloud Forest Reserve for 1.5 km to reach the viewpoint. Here, you can see across the mountains all the way to the ocean. So it’s a great spot to watch the sun setting. We are obviously not the only ones with this idea; as we approach our destination, we can see dozens of pedestrians, cars, even tour buses descending on the same spot. Despite the clouds (and the crowds), it’s quite a sunset and a pleasant way to round off our last evening in Monteverde. Tomorrow we return to the coast.
Costa Rica Day 12 – Manuel Antonio
It’s time to check out of the Hotel Santa Fe, bringing the guest count to zero. My least favourite thing has been that they refused to provide room service due to Covid, yet asked that we do not throw paper in the toilet. By now, the bin is overflowing with 4 days’ worth of soiled paper and I’m relieved that’s it’s time to move on.
Drive to Manuel Antonio
Today, we are travelling 120 miles south to Manuel Antonio, site of Costa Rica’s most popular national park. There’s a quota system in place, so we’ve already purchased our tickets and are raring to go. After one last encounter with the fluorescent fruit juice, we depart. It’s supposedly a 3.5 hour drive – factor in that the old man drives like an old woman, plus I have a few stops planned en route and it’s going take a while longer…
We descend from Monteverde through beautiful mountain scenery, then after a brief section on Route 1 through the port city of Punta Arenas, we turn onto the Pacific Highway.
Tarcoles Bridge
Our first scheduled stop is Tarcoles Bridge; a bridge over the Río Tarcoles, where my guide book promises the sight of crocodiles lazing on the banks. I’m keeping my eyes peeled for the bridge – I needn’t have bothered. We round a corner to the sight of dozens of cafes and souvenir stands lined by dozens of cars and tour buses. I think it’s safe to say we’ve reached our destination.
We walk along the bridge and manage to spot 14 crocodiles lazing on the banks in the midday sun. After buying a $3 bottle of Coke and going for a $1 wee, we press on.
Jacó Viewpoint
Next stop is a quick photo op and to admire the view at a viewpoint overlooking the resort town of Jacó.
Quepos
At Quepos, we turn off the highway and proceed along a small road to Manuel Antonio. We park up in the small fishing town for the old man buys an ice cream. Meanwhile I go in search of a couple of cold beers and a sign selfie. Who doesn’t love a good sign selfie?
Accommodation – Hotel Manuel Antonio
We continue to tonight’s hotel, Hotel Manuel Antonio, which is literally at the end of the road, in a turning circle, two miles past the village of Manuel Antonio itself. I had imagined that once we passed Manuel Antonio, we would be in the back end of beyond. It’s more like Bournemouth on a particularly hot August Bank Holiday. The final part of the drive takes forever through all the traffic. My beer doesn’t make it to the hotel!
The hotel is very nice. The room is cool and has two double beds plus a balcony overlooking the garden, where iguanas bask among the tropical plants. It is sandwiched between the National Park and the beach.
Playa Espadilla
We take a stroll along the long expanse of golden sand which makes up Playa Espadilla. As we return, the sun is starting to set behind some rocks. Quite a sight!
Dinner at Marlin Restaurante
We round the evening off at a beachside restaurant, Marlin Restaurante. Sunset coincides with happy hour on cocktails. A mango daiquiri and a passion fruit daiquiri are most welcome after today’s hot drive. The food is good too…
Costa Rica Day 13 – Manuel Antonio
Manuel Antonio National Park
Today, we are going to Manuel Antonio National Park – our entry time slot is 9 to 9.40 am. No food is allowed in the park (although there is a small kiosk where you can purchase drinks and snacks). In addition, no single use plastic is allowed inside the park. If you bring your own water bottle, they will refill it at the kiosk with very welcome ice cold water for 500 colones. We stop at one of the many cafés which line the road to the park for breakfast and arrive at the entrance at the allocated time.
Sendero Perezoso
There are several trails and three beaches within the park. We opt to start with Sendero Perezoso (sloth trail), which takes you, either along a trail or a boardwalk, through the rainforest to a clearing which contains the cafe, toilets and access to some of the other trails.
We don’t see any sloths on the ‘Sloth Trail‘ but we do, however, spot monkeys. At first we are excited, peering up into the trees for a closer look. But as we approach the park kiosk, we realise there are hundreds of them, absolutely everywhere. The closer you get to the kiosk, the higher the concentration of monkeys!
We climb an observation tower which is more like a monkey living room! And they’re certainly not shy of humans, coming over to check us out.
Sendero Playa Manuel Antonio
From the kiosk, we take the Sendero Playa Manuel Antonio, which leads you, not surprisingly, to Playa Manuel Antonio.
Playa Manuel Antonio
Playa Manuel Antonio is a tree lined beach, where lizards bask in the sun. There are lovely beaches both inside and outside the park, so you are very much spoilt for choice. After a quick dip to cool down, we continue along the next trail.
At the end of the trail, you can climb an Observation Tower which is more like a monkey living room! And they certainly were not shy of humans, coming over to check us out.
Sendero Punta Catedral
Suitably refreshed, we continue on the steep, circular Sendero Punta Catedral (approximately 1.4 km) round the rocky peninsula of Punta Catedral. The trail has lots of steps and lots of gaps where steps used to be. Climbing it is quite a mission in the heat and humidity.
Finally, as you continue the circular trail onwards and upwards, you are rewarded with a view over the bay.
Unfortunately, we at the top to find the viewpoint cordoned off (it has been destroyed by monkeys), so we continued along the steps/ex steps back towards the beach.
There are other trails, in the park, but in the heat and humidity, I found this was sufficient and set off in the direction of the exit.
Sendero Playa Espadilla Sur
The Sendero Playa Espadilla Sur is a leisurely stroll through the mangroves and along the beach.
Playa Espadilla Sur
At the end of the trail, another beautiful beach; Playa Espadilla Sur.
Bahia
As you near the park exit, take the boardwalk through the mangroves to Bahia Beach. At this beautiful beach, you can watch pelicans diving into the rock pools for their lunch.
Manuel Antonio Sunset
Then it’s back to the hotel for a much needed cool down – we have walked over 5 miles in 32 degree heat and 80% humidity. We go for a dip in the ocean at 4 pm, that way we’re on the beach for another glorious sunset.
Dinner at Falafel Bar
We go in search of food around 7 pm. The place is like a ghost town. The restaurants have happy hour until 6.30 to entice day trippers to stay for dinner, but after this, everywhere is dead. We don’t fancy sitting in an empty restaurant alone, so we drive into Manuel Antonio itself to Falafel Bar. I order a Falafel Plate, which come with hummus, pitta, salad (Costa Rican food is predominantly fried and I’ve been craving salad) and chips (I still love fried food though).
Then it’s back to the hotel for our final night in Manuel Antonio. It’s been one of my favourite places, so I shall be sad to leave. But I’m looking forward to our next destination; Puerto Jiménez.
Costa Rica Day 14 – Puerto Jiménez
Drive to Puerto Jiménez
Today, we have a 135 mile drive south to Puerto Jiménez. It’s mostly a straight run down the Pacific Highway, then we turn off onto the Osa Peninsula and basically drive until we run out of tarmac. We pass through mile after mile of palm plantations with the occasional palm oil refinery belching black smoke into the atmosphere. The further south we go, the narrower the road gets and the old man drives closer to the edge than I’d prefer. I spend the journey leaning to the left as if this will somehow affect the car’s balance if we get too close to the ditch.
Finally, after 90 miles, we turn off the highway onto the more scenic Route 245 which takes us to Puerto Jiménez. The last 40 miles skirts 3 sides of the Golfo Dulce. It’s very remote; just us and the jungle (and, judging by the noise – several million crickets). But at least there’s tarmac.
We reach the quaint little town of Puerto Jiménez around midday. Note: Puerto Jiménez is on the edge of Corcovado National Park – that’s what brings most people here – last stop/passing through on the way to the park. We didn’t visit the park.
Accommodation – Cabinas Jiménez
Our home for the next couple of nights is Cabinas Jiménez. The old man has gone from one extreme to the other. After our poky room in Monteverde with its little bed a couple of days ago, today we have a family suite (designed to sleep 6), where we will be outnumbered by beds. We also have a kitchenette on a balcony overlooking the gulf.
It must have been a lovely place once, bit it’s a bit run down and dilapidated now. Plus it’s rather grimy; the dust, kicked up from the constant stream of 4x4s back and forth to the National Park on unpaved roads gets everywhere. But there are comfy chairs on the balcony, plus a fridge to keep our drinks cool and the view is amazing; with the bay in the background. Whilst in the foreground the trees are teeming with scarlet macaws.
Cycle round Puerto Jiménez
Our accommodation has bikes we can use, but they don’t have brakes; to stop you have to pedal backwards. Cycling these over bumpy, dusty tracks, flanked by 4x4s is too terrifying. So we decide to ditch the bikes and walk instead.
Walk round Puerto Jiménez
We take a walk into town, which my guide book describes as a ‘vaguely Wild West outpost’. That pretty much sums it up. There’s a street lined with a few bars and stores and everywhere is dust. The only difference is, here everyone rides bikes instead of horses.
After a trip to the supermarket, we return to the hotel, and I spend the afternoon reading by the hotel pool.
We cook dinner in our kitchenette, and have an early night. The ‘extra large double bed’ turns out to be an en extra large double mattress on a regular double bed frame, so you have to be careful not to venture too near the unsupported edges. I lie in bed trying to sleep whilst something scurries around on the roof outside. At least I hope it’s outside! I decide to leave the light on and finally fall asleep listening to scratching and squeaking above my head.
Costa Rica Day 15 – Puerto Jiménez
I wake at 6 am – rush hour in Puerto Jiménez as planes and 4x4s ferry visitors to and from the National Park. I get up and prepare breakfast; as we have a kitchenette, I’m going to try cooking plantain. At least, I think it’s plantain. As the Spanish for plantain is plátano, and the Spanish for banana is also plátano, there’s a 50% chance I’ve purchased plantain.
We don’t have much planned for today. The main reason people come Puerto Jiménez is to visit Corcovado National Park. This was our original plan, which we now abort as I’m not feeling well. And because it would have cost $100 each for the opportunity of a long off road drive (check) to hike for several hours in the heat and humidity (check) to possibly see some wild animals (check). So instead, a quiet morning.
Malecón de Puerto Jiménez
In the morning, we take a walk along the Malecón de Puerto Jiménez, which probably used to be a lovely prom to an area of mangroves where you can see caiman. It’s a pretty coastal walk, however, the prom has definitely seen better days.
Puerto Jiménez Ferry Terminal
We pass Puerto Jiménez Ferry Terminal. From here, you can catch a ferry across the bay to Golfito; a small town on the border with Panama which is popular for its duty free shopping.
Kayaking the Golfo Dulce
We decide to take one of the hotel kayaks for a spin. We initially paddle in the direction of the aforementioned mangroves, but it’s a double kayak and the old man has a history of capsizing. I panic at the thought of capsizing in crocodile infested waters, so we turn and paddle round the beautiful Golfe Dulce instead, watching the sun set as we go.
After dinner, I have a fun evening hand washing underwear as there is no launderette in Puerto Jiménez. The sink is on the balcony, which contains one dim light and two powerful lights. The powerful lights are motion sensitive, so the only way I can see what I’m doing is to constantly rock from side to side. I manage to get my pants clean before I get too dizzy. Then it’s time to try and sleep whilst the unidentified creatures scurry over the bedroom roof.
Costa Rica Day 16 – Puerto Jimenez
It’s our third and final day in Puerto Jiménez. I’m not sure if I love or hate it here, but with hindsight, two days would have sufficed. It’s a beautiful location, but its’ so remote, plus all pervasive dust and the mouldy hotel room have taken their toll. I have a sore throat and a headache. I’ve taken a COVID test, which is negative. It’s a test I brought with me – there are no medical facilities in Puerto Jiménez. In fact, the welcome pack in our room suggests that in the event of an emergency, we contact the vet! Yes really.
We go through the list of possibilities for today; on the agenda was a drive further along the golf to Matapalo Beach and nearby King Louis Waterfall. But it’s 22 miles – most of them off road and we’ve had our fill of bumping around in the dust. Besides, we can see a beach without leaving our cabin. So, I spend the day relaxing on the sofa on the balcony overlooking the ocean. From here, I can watch a row of almond trees frequented by macaws. And drink mojitos – good for the throat!
In the afternoon, we go for another kayak around the bay. Then a trip to the supermarket for dinner rounds off our final night in Puerto Jiménez.
Costa Rica Day 17 – Uvita
Last night was terrible. I coughed all night and my throat was so, so sore. This morning, it’s time to start the journey back to San José and civilisation. We’re doing it in two chunks; today we’re driving 92 miles north to Uvita, home of Marino Ballena National Park.
Drive to Uvita
We retrace our route around the Golfo Dulce and up the Pacific Highway to Uvita. Another drive with no real need for navigation, so I just sit and watch the world go by for a couple of hours. At one point I open a pack of biscuits and realise I’m being watched by a gang of monkeys sitting on the crash barrier.
Accommodation
Today’s hotel is actually a hotel – Hotel Nido del Halcon – not some grimy hippy shack in the outback. It’s such a relief to have a bright, airy room which smells of cleaning product. And the pool is big enough to actually swim in. Unfortunately, the hotel has since closed down.
Marino Ballena National Park
After checking in, I want to go for lunch (it’s 2 pm and I had a bowl of fruit 7 hours ago). But the old man insists on going for a walk first. We head to the beach, but as this forms part of the Marino Ballena National Park, we must pay $14 to enter.
Now we have to do a long walk as the old man needs to get his money’s worth. I’m not feeling well and really could do without walking 5 miles in the tropical heat having skipped lunch. But he will not be deterred.
The beach has a rocky outcrop resembling a whale’s tail, which looks spectacular in photos I’ve see. They were obviously taken by drones, because from the beach, it just looks like some rocks.
Dinner at Fernando’s Restaurant
By the time we actually finish our epic beach trek and have found somewhere to eat, I’m so tired my eyes can’t even focus on the menu, so I just randomly point to something. I end up with rice and pork and spend ages picking all the pork out of the rice and feeding it to a stray cat.
Costa Rica Day 18 – Uvita
Today is not going according to plan. I had such a sore throat in the night I couldn’t sleep. I’ve been feeling ill for 4 days now, so I take another Covid test. This time it’s positive. Well that explains the sore throat! We have flights booked to Panama for the day after tomorrow. I guess that’s not going to happen! I check the self isolation rules for Costa Rica; 7-10 days from the date of testing positive. No chance to backdate to the date of first symptoms. It’s going to be a long week…
Whale Watching Tour
The old man has a Whale Watching Tour booked this morning, so he departs early, leaving me alone with a bottle of warm soda water. He has asked for breakfast to be brought to the room, which finally arrives some considerable time later. The waiter obviously suspects what’s up. He’s wearing a mask and gloves and hands the plate over at arm’s length and runs. I’m so hungry, but each mouthful is like eating razor blades coated in crushed glass, so I soon give up.
The only outside areas at this hotel are communal, so I spend the entire day in my room, reading and coughing and reading and coughing, counting the hours until I can take more painkillers. Eventually, the old man returns with a cold drink and food; jalapeño bagels with jalapeño cream cheese. He mutters a lot about how spicy it is – so I guess I’ve lost my sense of taste!
Costa Rica Day 19 – San Jose
We decide to stick with our original plan to drive to San Jose this morning. There are several reasons for this; 1) the hire car is due back; 2) we are 60 miles from the nearest hospital if either of us gets really ill and 3) it gives us the opportunity to book a hotel more conducive to self isolating. I’ve only been stuck in this room one day and I’m already going stir crazy!
Drive to San Jose
So, we set off on the 3 hour drive north to the capital and our newly booked destination; Casa Conde to see out my period of isolation. The 140 mile journey sees us retracing our way west along the coast on Route 34, before turning inland along Route 27 towards San Jose.
Accommodation – Casa Conde Hotel & Apartamentos
We arrive at our home for the next few nights; Casa Conde Hotel & Apartamentos. I’m not sure what to expect – all the reviews I’ve read gave it either 5 stars or 1 star. Casa Conde is definitely a Marmite kind of hotel. I fall in love with it immediately. It’s a rambling, colonial style complex like something out of a film set. The decor is a bit shabby chic (leaning towards shabby). But the hotel is set in beautiful gardens, there are murals on the walls (and who doesn’t love a mural) and it has a good size pool in a tranquil courtyard. It’s just what the doctor ordered!
The apartments have two bedrooms, a kitchen and a living/dining area and there’s even, joy of joys, a washing machine.
I take a nap after the journey, while the old man returns the hire car, then do tonnes of laundry while we try to decide what to eat. The old man wants pizza. The nearest pizzeria is 100 metres away and has excellent reviews. I choose a Mexican pizza, which turns out to be the best pizza I’ve ever tasted. The old man returns with burger and chips. I asked him why he changed his mind? Apparently he realised the pizzeria was vegan! Pizzeria Marinara is currently closed, but hoping to reopen. If it does, I thoroughly recommend it.
We spend the rest of the evening replanning and rebooking the remaining part of our trip, working out a way to fit in most of what we wanted to do. This is mainly achieved by replacing two long bus trips with flights – extra expense, but freeing up some time to replace what we have lost from having to isolate for the next couple of days.
Costa Rica Day 20 – San Jose
Today is another fun filled day of isolation. On the plus side, after 3 days of feeling absolutely terrible, I have woken up feeling heaps better. As outside is quiet and it has been a full 5 days since my first symptoms, I decide to don a mask a take a walk round the hotel grounds. It’s my first time outdoors (unless you count getting in and out of the car) since I tested positive 3 days ago. Casa Conde is a quirky hotel with courtyards and fountains and stained glass windows.
The best news is that the pool, which is in a courtyard garden, is completely deserted – I can self isolate by the pool – yay! This is an unexpected turn of events and I return to the room and collect a book and towel.
I spend the rest of the morning lazing by the pool. I even manage a couple of short swims, although I’m totally drained after 15 minutes. Eventually, a man turns up and I figure I should go, but he keeps coughing. He sounds more like he has COVID than me! So I stay a while longer, until the old man appears and announces he’s bought lunch.
After lunch and a nap, I return to the pool for my own special form of self isolation – this time it’s just me and the birds. I manage a couple more swims, although to be honest I’ve overdone it a bit.
I return to the accommodation completely exhausted, reheat some leftover chips and go to bed.
Costa Rica Day 21 – San Jose
Another day of isolation. The morning is sunny, so I can escape to the pool, which is totally deserted again. A couple of swims, a nap and a couple more swims take up most of the day. The final swim was a bit much, leaving me totally exhausted, despite the fact it was only 10 minutes long.
As my step count since I got ill has been pitiably low, I decide to take a walk around the hotel grounds, photographing some of the stained glass windows en route. Living the COVID dream!
Then, it’s time for dinner (with 3 nights left in Costa Rica, the old man has bought a 1.8 kg sack of rice), FaceTime with family and bed. That’s my 7 days of isolation up; tomorrow I am allowed out – hooray!!!
Costa Rica Day 22 – San Jose
Parque La Sabana
It’s release day and we’re going to Parque La Sabana. La Sabana was San Jose’s original airport, but is now a park and home to the National Stadium. The former terminal building has become an art gallery.
After breakfast, I put on my shoes – they feel weird – I haven’t worn shoes in a while! We catch an Uber to la Sabana and take a stroll round the park, which has a lake surrounded by a path and plenty of sculptures.
Museo de Arte Costarricense
We round our trip off with a visit to the Museo de Arte Costarricense (Museum of Costa Rican Art).
The Golden Room
In addition to picture galleries, the walls of what was once the VIP lounge (now called the Golden Room), are covered with a 150 square metre bronze mural depicting the history of Costa Rica. Apparently, it is supposed to “offer travellers a private and inviting space whose walls inform them, in an artistic and educational way, of events in the history of Costa Rica”.
Sculpture Garden
Outside is a Sculpture Garden (who doesn’t love a sculpture garden?) with some interesting pieces.
My overall favourites are the sculptures of Leda Astorga; I’m sure there’s a much more artistic way to interpret her work, but basically it depicts fat people having a good time!
When we emerge from the gallery, it’s all kicking off outside with a big political rally, both on the streets and with dozens of cars adorned with flags parading round the roads. We call an Uber, which fails to make it through the rally and cancels. Eventually, a second car comes and takes us back to the hotel.
Museo de Arte Costarricense
Costa Rica Day 23 – San Jose
It’s Monday, which means that most of the museums etc are closed, so we take an Uber into town and go for a wander.
Barrio Amón
We decide to start to the north of the city centre in Barrio Amón, which Lonely Planet informs me is a “pleasant, historical neighbourhood, home to a cluster of 19th-century coffee grower mansions. Recently many of the area’s historical buildings have been converted into hotels, cafes, bars, and offices, making this a popular district for an architectural stroll.”
Our driver pulls up at our chosen location. He looks a little worried and checks that we really do want to be left here! We do, so off we set on our architectural stroll. First, we head in the opposite direction as the old man has spotted a fire station with some fireman sculptures outside. A real fireman sitting outside points north and says; ‘This way is dangerous, go the other way.’
We turn round and walk through Barrio Amón, taking pictures of buildings and some of the neighbourhood’s prolific street art. We finally reaching the more touristy centre of town without incident, despite the driver and fireman’s misgivings.
Parque Morazán
There’s not a huge amount to do in San José on a Monday other than wander aimlessly through the city. So, we walk through a string of parks taking photographs for a couple of hours, starting at Parque Morazán.
Templo de Música
As well as pair of Instaworthy wings, Parque Morazán is home to the Templo de Música; a 1920s replica of the Temple of Love in Versailles, which doubles as a bandstand.
Jardín de Paz
The Jardín de Paz is a tree lined park, which runs between the Parque Morazán and the Parque España.
Parque España
The Parque España is home to a statue of Christopher Columbus and a lot of birds.
Plaza de la Libertad Electoral
On the edge of the Parque Nacional is the Plaza de la Libertad Electoral, which commemorates the abolition of the Costa Rican army.
Parque Nacional
The Parque Nacional has an interesting collection of sculptures, apparently of Latin American historical figures, like this naked man emerging from the earth. The old man asks me to photograph him high fiving the sculpture. I point out that for the sake of symmetry, he really ought to get his willy out and let it dangle, but he refuses. The old man has no sense of adventure!
Estación del Ferrocarril
The Estación del Ferrocarril, San Jose’s original station, was built in 1908. It has an ornate exterior. It is still operational during the week, but we went on a Sunday, when it was closed.
Dinner from Restaurante Kay
We take an Uber back to our accommodation and purchase Chinese from Restaurante Kay. It’s very good and the portions are enormous.
Costa Rica Day 24 – San Jose
Today is the last full day of our trip and we’re going into San Jose to see the things we couldn’t see on Monday because they were shut. So today, we plan a day of culture with a visit to the museum and art gallery.
Brunch at Restaurante el Patio del Balmoral
We take an Uber into town and find a spot for brunch; Restaurante el Patio del Balmoral. We order the Del Patio Breakfast; gallo pinto (fried rice and beans) with fried cheese, fried eggs, fried plantain and fried bread. In case that isn’t sufficient calories, it comes with a side of sour cream! And a pint of orange juice.
Museo Nacional de Costa Rica
Once we have consumed a zillion calories, we head to the National Museum of Costa Rica, which is housed in the former Bellavista Fort, HQ of the Costa Rican army until 1948, when the army was abolished. The building is peppered with bullet holes from the Civil War, also in 1948.
We enter through a glass atrium which is a butterfly house. There aren’t many butterflies flying around, however there is a rack full of chrysalises from which a couple of butterflies are emerging.
The museum details the history of Costa Rica. Some parts (the auditorium, jail cells) remain closed. This leaves the Pre Colombian History room, the History of Costa Rica room and an area which houses temporary exhibitions.
My favourite part of the museum (because I’m a big kid) is at the end where a series of time lapsed screens allow you, if you run from side to side, to appear on several screens simultaneously. The old man is not impressed…
MADC
Once I have finished running up and down the museum like an idiot, we walk to our next destination, the MADC (Museum of Contemporary Art and Design). It’s always risky taking the old man to an art gallery, especially if it contains the word ‘Contemporary’ in the title. He tends to walk round muttering; ‘Call that art?’ a lot. To be honest, this time he has a point. It costs $4 entry – cash only, no change given. So we end up having to pay $10 to get in. (Note: Entry is now free).
The first exhibit we see upon entering is literally a bowl of rotting fruit. Seriously? We’ve paid $10 for someone to shove some rotten fruit in a recess and call it art?
Much of the rest of the space it taken up with chairs hanging from the ceiling. There’s also a map with some stickers on and a room where everything appears to be made of cotton wool, which is somehow indicative of COVID. I can think of better ways of spending $10. The best bit about the museum is the building (a 19th century former liquor factory), but when I try to take a peek outside, a security guard is quick to intervene.
Parque Central
After we have paid $10 to look at a rotten pineapple, some hanging chairs and a room covered in cotton wool, we round our trip off at Parque Central. It’s not really a park, just a grubby plaza full of pigeons, but it does have that all important SJO photo opp…
Accommodation – Hampton By Hilton San Jose Airport
We have receives an email from British Airways that our flight, which was originally at 6.40 pm tonight will now depart at 7 am tomorrow. There is mention in the email from British Airways that if we go to the airport (at an unspecified time, to an unspecified location) a member of staff will assist in booking a hotel. The old man remains unconvinced and makes a reservation at Hampton By Hilton San Jose Airport Costa Rica as it fits all our requirements; beds to sleep in, an airport shuttle to get to the airport and a pool to entertain me until BA get their act together.
After check in, I relocate to the pool (this one has other people found it, which is disappointing – I was kind of used to having a pool to myself at Casa Conde).
Dinner at Rosti
For dinner, we walk round the corner to a fast food chicken joint, Rosti. We buy a sharing platter (a Súper Piqueo) which consists of fried chicken, plantain, cheese and tortillas with a selection of dips. I’m not sure how many it’s supposed to serve, but it’s enormous. We manage to finish it with the help of a stray dog who appears under the table just as we are running out of steam. And so, when we should actually be half way across the Atlantic, we are sitting in a diner by the side of a motorway sharing chicken nuggets with a manky mongrel.
Then it’s back to our room for a (very) early night before our 5 am check in. The noise as we approach the hotel is deafening; there are hundreds of parrots congregating in the trees outside. It’s quite a sight – I try to take a video, until two parrots poop in my hair and I have to take an impromptu shower before a slightly-later-than-planned early night.
- Trip taken: January 2022
- Updated: March 2025
I hope you found the above information useful. For guides to more destinations in the 50+ countries we have visited, check out my full list of Independent Travel Itineraries here.
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