I have set myself the challenge of walking the South West Coast Path. Initially, this was something my brother was trying to achieve. But after he died, I decided to pick up the mantle.
The South West Coast Path stretches for 630 miles, running along the coast from Somerset, through Devon and Cornwall to Dorset. Starting in Minehead in Somerset, the path runs along the north coast of the peninsula as far as Lands End, before turning and running along the south coast to South Haven Point near Poole.
My guide book divides the trail into 70 sections. As I live near what is traditionally considered to be the end of the trail, I plan to tackle the route in reverse, starting with Section 70.
Section 63 of the South West Coast Path starts near the village of Abbotsbury. After an pleasant start out of the village through fields with sweeping coastal views, you reach the coast. From here, you follow a road, which becomes a path, before ultimately the path runs out and you must walk a very draining section along the shingle beach. As if that’s not enough, there’s a long, steep section to round things off.
South West Coast Path Section 63 at a Glance
| Starting Point | Abbotsbury |
| Finishing Point | West Bay |
| Distance | 15 km |
| Ascent | 84 metres |
| Timing | 6.25 hours |
| Grading | Moderate then Strenuous |
| Settlements | Abbotsbury Burton Bradstock West Bay |
| Points of Interest | |
| Take a Break | Chesil Beach Cafe Hive Beach Cafe |
| Accommodation | Freshwater Beach Holiday Park |
Starting Point – Abbotsbury
Abbotsbury is 9 miles west of Weymouth, just off the coast path, which briefly joins New Barn Road and then Grove Lane between the village and Abbotsbury Swannery.
Public Transport
The nearest train station is Weymouth, which is on the South West Main Line to London and the Heart of Wessex Line to Bristol.
The X52/53 buses run between Bridport/West Bay and Weymouth via Abbotsbury roughly once an hour.
The day starts by lulling you into a false sense of security. Leaving the village, you turn right into a field for a fairly flat countryside stroll with beautiful sea views.
Chesil Beach Cafe
After a couple of miles, you reach the coast near Chesil Beach Cafe. Here, they have taken a seafood theme and run and run with it. You even have to insert your credit card/phone into a crab to pay! Enjoy a drink and a break here. It’s the last time you’re going to be comfortable for a while…
Chesil Beach
The 18 mile long shingle barrier of Chesil Beach is visible for several sections of the South West Coast Path, but this is where it gets real. You set off along Burton Road, adjacent to the shingle monstrosity. Soon, the road peters out, becomes a path briefly, then disappears altogether.
For the next few miles, you must walk on the energy sapping shingle. It’s hard work.
Just as I was running out of steam and doubting my ability to go on, we met a woman walking the other way (one of the benefits of walking the coast path clockwise, is that you meet lots of walkers coming the other way). She assured us that we only had a mile to go before a weather vane indicates an alternative route through nearby fields. Oh the joy of walking on solid ground once more.
Lunch at Hive Beach Cafe
After several rather remote miles through farmland seeing very few people, we arrived at Hive Beach, very much ready for lunch at Hive Beach Cafe. The car park was heaving. There was a queue to be seated. We’d barely seen a soul all morning and now there were people everywhere.
This is another cafe which specialises in seafood. But they also have excellent baked goods (I had a sausage roll) and desserts (Cath chose the Black Forest trifle). If you don’t want to wait, there is also a take away counter.
From Hive Beach, there is a small inland section before you head for the coast once more. Another inland detour to cross the River Bride brings you down the hill into Freshwater Beach Holiday Park.
Accommodation – Freshwater Beach Holiday Park
Just before the end of Section 63 is the large Freshwater Beach Holiday Park, which offers camping plus accommodation in caravans and cabins. Facilities including a bar/restaurant, swimming pools, bowling and a gym. If it looks familiar, it’s because is features heavily in the TV series Broadchurch.
West Bay
Today’s section officially ends in the quaint little harbour village of West Bay. Enjoy being at sea level momentarily – there’s a lot of up to come.
Getting back to the Start
The X52/53 buses run between Bridport/West Bay and Weymouth via Abbotsbury roughly once an hour.
Next Section
Section 62: West Bay to Lyme Regis
Jane's Midlife Journey 
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