We spent a day in Mostar as part of a Balkan Road Trip. Mostar is a quaint riverside town, mainly visited for its top attraction; the Unesco World Heritage Old Bridge. Prior to planning this trip, I knew three things about Mostar; (1) it has a famous old bridge, (2) the front line in the Bosnian War ran through Mostar and (3) the original Old Bridge was destroyed during the war, so the current Old Bridge isn’t old at all.
How to get to Mostar
We drove to Mostar from Dubrovnik and continued on the next day to Sarajevo. This is a scenic mountain drive, much of it through the Neretva Valley alongside the picturesque blue-green river. There are also regular buses and trains between Mostar to Sarajevo.
Getting around Mostar
Mostar is compact and the sights are easily explored on foot. Our circular walking tour covers a distance of just over 2 miles.
Where to stay in Mostar
We stayed at the Villa Fortuna; a pleasant hotel with clean, comfortable rooms. Our room had a balcony with an excellent view of Mostar.
Mostar in 1 Day Itinerary
| Day 1 | Drive to Mostar Accommodation – Villa Fortuna Old Bridge Old Bazar Dinner at Urban Taste of Orient Neretva River Karadoz Beg Mosque Spanski Trg Gimnazija Mostar Franciscan Church of Saint Peter & Paul Crooked Bridge |
Mostar in 1 Day
After a breakfast of cherry and sour cream croissants, we set forth for the Bosnian border and Mostar.
Drive to Mostar
The border crossing is in the hills on the outskirts of Dubrovnik. Once through, we are in a remote mountainous area. If we had realised quite how remote it was, we would have filled up with petrol beforehand. We start to get a bit worried. Then suddenly, like a mirage, a pristine petrol station in the middle of nowhere.
Shortly after the petrol mirage, Google Maps takes us 3.6 miles along what looks like a goat track. Not surprisingly, it is totally deserted. The old man is unimpressed and starts to mutter about land mines. Eventually, we re-join the road and continue our drive through an area which consists of mountains, trees, bombed out buildings and cemeteries. With 37 miles to go, we get a warning light on the dashboard. We decide to carry on. There isn’t much choice; in the past 50 miles, the only signs of civilisation we have seen are a dead wolf and an old man throwing stones at a cow that is stuck in a hedge.
Accommodation – Villa Fortuna
We reach the outskirts of Mostar and our hotel; Villa Fortuna, which is a relief. After a short break, sitting on our balcony to de-stress and Google warning lights, we take a wander round Mostar.
Old Bridge
We cross the Old Bridge with its gorgeous view of the river and beyond. The famous stone bridge was originally constructed in the 16th Century. It was destroyed during the Bosnian War, but subsequently rebuild using 16th Century building techniques and stone from the original quarry.
The bridge is frequented by boys in budgie smugglers who will dive into to the river if you pay them enough. There wasn’t anyone around when we visited who was willing to part with any cash for this particularly act of bravery.
Old Bazar
The Old Bridge leads to the Old Bazar with its historic stone buildings, many of which now house souvenir shops.
Dinner at Urban Taste of Orient
We choose a restaurant; Urban Taste of Orient, which has a terrace overlooking the bridge, a perfect spot for dinner and a beer. Mostar is such a beautiful place, with the turquoise river running through the stone buildings of the ancient town. It’s sad to think that such a lovely, tranquil place was once, not so long ago, the front line in a brutal war.
Neretva River
After lunch, we walk along the banks of the beautiful Neretva River with stunning views across to Mostar and the mountains beyond.
Karadoz Beg Mosque
We pass the 16th Century Karadoz Beg Mosque, badly damaged during the war, but now renovated.
In the neighbouring graveyard, there is a mausoleum and lots of gravestones. It has the sort of uniformity only found in war cemeteries when so many graves are dug in a short space of time. A huge number of the gravestones date from 1993.
Spanski Trg
Onwards to Spanski Trg (Spanish Square). The road which runs through this area once formed the front line in the Bosnian war. Several ruined buildings remain with their walls sprayed with bullet holes. Most notably, the Ljubljanska Banka building. This strategically placed former bank was nicknamed Sniper Tower for reasons which are obvious.
Amidst the devastation, you can find plenty of street art.
Gimnazija Mostar
This stunning orange building is actually a school; Gimnazija Mostar. It dates back to 1879 and the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Now, it houses a dual curriculum secondary school where Bosnian and Croatian children study side by side.
Franciscan Church of Saint Peter & Paul
We round the day off at the Franciscan Church of Saint Peter & Paul. Badly damaged during the war, rebuilding work on this huge church with its enormous bell tower has subsequently been undertaken.
Mostar Peace Bell Tower
Adjacent to the church is the Mostar Peace Bell Tower, which boasts a total height of 107 metres. You can climb 370 steps (helpfully numbered) to a viewing platform for a stunning view over Mostar and the surrounding mountains. It might be possible to take a lift half way up. Who knows? It’s a bit random. When we visited, the lift was closed, but I think that was because the operator had gone for a cigarette…
The tower is open daily from 9 am until 5 pm. Entry costs 14KM (around £6).
Crooked Bridge
The diminutive Crooked Bridge may be smaller than the Old Bridge, but it is in fact older – build 8 years beforehand to test out the design. Or rather, it is the same age, because it too was rebuilt after the war. The bridge is a pretty sight, spanning the Radobolja River and surrounded by old mills.
- Trip Taken: September 2018
- Updated: February 2025
I hope you found the above information useful. For guides to more destinations in the 50+ countries we have visited, check out my full list of Independent Travel Itineraries here.
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