Jane's Midlife Journey

I spent 2 days exploring the Belgian city of Ghent. The first with a wander round the historic old town. And the second sampling some more the city’s attractions from beer drinking to lake swimming.

How to get to Ghent

Ghent is just 33 miles north west of the Belgian capital, Brussels. There is a very regular train service between the two cities, with trains taking approximately 36 minutes to Brussel-Centraal. Or around 28 minutes to Brussel-Zuid to catch the Eurostar. Tickets costs €11.40 (€8 at weekends).

Getting around Ghent

We explored the picturesque, cobbled old town on foot. For longer journeys, getting around Ghent is easy by tram or by bus. You can pay by credit card on board (make sure you get the right machine – there are two, the white ones are for credit cards). A ride costs €3. Within the hour, you can take any bus or tram you like. Cycling is also a popular way to get around but watch out for the tram lines!

Ghent in 2 Days Itinerary

Day 1	Castle of the Counts (Gravensteen) Korenlei Graslei Great Butchers’ Hall St Michael’s Bridge St Nicholas’ Church Belfry of Ghent City Pavilion St Bavo’s Cathedral The Ghent Altarpiece (the Adoration of the Mystic Lamb) Graffiti Street (Werregarenstraat) Dinner at Tush
Day 2	Dok Noord Swimming in the Blaarmeersen Dinner at Veggi & Grill Drinks at Trollekelder

Ghent Day 1

We started our visit to Ghent with a circuit of the old town. My itinerary covers a loop of roughly a mile.

Castle of the Counts (Gravensteen)

The Castle of the Counts, or Gravensteen, is an imposing 12th Century Castle surrounded by a moat. It looks like it’s jumped straight out of the pages of a fairytale. The castle was the residence of the Counts of Flanders for almost 200 years. It has subsequently been repurposed many times, including as a court, a prison, a mint and a cotton mill. We made do with admiring the castle’s exterior. If you wish to explore further, the gatehouse, ramparts, keep, count’s residence and stables are open to visitors.

The castle is open daily from 10 am until 6 pm. Adult entry costs €15.

Korenlei

Historic Ghent is built on the banks of the Leie River. Korenlei is a path which runs along the west bank. The quaint cobbled path passes by a range of equally quaint old buildings. Many now house restaurants, souvenir and chocolate shops catering to Ghent’s tourists.

Graslei

The corresponding path along the east bank of the canal is Graslei. This too is lined with interesting architecture. A popular way to admire the riverside buildings is to take one of the many boat trips sailing up and down the river.

Or just find a nice riverside restaurant – we opted for Panotto – buy some drinks and sit and watch the world walk/cycle/sail by…

Great Butchers Hall

The Great Butchers’ Hall is a former meat market which is currently closed for renovations. It might just be me, but I thought its facade looks like a skull staring at you (they do an excellent Limoncello Spritz at Panotto).

St Michael’s Bridge

The historic St Michael’s Bridge is an ideal stop for a photo op. From here, you can take a photo of Ghent’s three medieval towers all lined up. Note: Stand at the end of the bridge facing east. Not up/down the water, which is the mistake I first made – looking up and down the river saying ”I can’t see any towers!”

St Nicholas’ Church

St Nicholas’ Church is a 14th Century Church. It’s the first of Ghent’s three medieval towers.

The church is open daily from 10 am until 4 pm. Entry is free.

Belfry of Ghent

The Belfry of Ghent is another of the city’s medieval towers. Since the Middle Ages, the tower has been the symbol of the city’s prosperity and independence. From the spire, a fire breathing dragon guards the city centre. You can climb (or take the elevator) to the top of the tower for views of the city and beyond.

The Belfry is open daily from 10 am until 6 pm. Adult entry costs €13.

City Pavilion

Tacked incongruously onto the ancient tower is the City Pavilion, looking a bit like a giant garden shed just landed on the cobbled plaza Wizard of Oz style. This modern structure made from glass, wood and concrete hosts concerts, dance performances and markets.

Inside is a piano passers by are invited to play. On my visit, I was rewarded with something akin to a piano war. One man was knocking out Elton John bangers. Then another man turned up to perform some more classical numbers. Finally, someone went full-on concert pianist. I only sat down for a quick drink and ended up staying for ages.

St Bavo’s Cathedral

St Bavo’s Cathedral is the third of Ghent’s medieval towers. It is equally splendid inside and out. Enter to admire the grandeur of the architecture and the wonderful stained glass windows.

The cathedral is open daily from 8.30 am (1 pm on Sundays) until 5.30 pm. Entry to most of the cathedral is free.

The Ghent Altarpiece (the Adoration of the Mystic Lamb)

Also inside the cathedral, you can visit Ghent’s most famous painting. The Ghent Altarpiece (also known as the Adoration of the Mystic Lamb) was completed in 1432, making it one of the world’s oldest paintings. It also holds the dubious claim to fame of being the world’s most stolen painting.

Note: The altarpiece consists of several panels, some of which are currently undergoing restoration and therefore have been replaced by copies. I couldn’t bring by self to part with €16 to visit a photocopy. Next…

The altarpiece is open daily from 10 am until 5 pm. Adult entry costs €16 for the full AR tour or €12.50 just to visit the altarpiece. It’s popular, so book in advance to ensure entry.

Graffiti Street (Werregarenstraat)

Werregarenstraat (aka Graffiti Street) is, as the name suggests, a street covered with graffiti. There are often artists at work here, so the graffiti on display changes very regularly.

Dinner at Tush

Opposite the entrance to Graffiti Street, you will find Tush. This great little restaurant with a butt themed decor specialises in burgers, which are really good. But they do absolutely delicious oyster mushrooms. Totally addictive!

Ghent Day 2

Dok Noord

In a series of repurposed 19th Century dock buildings just north of the city centre, you can find Dok Noord. As well as a range of shopping outlets, the complex has plenty of entertainment and dining options. It even has its own microbrewery.

Swimming in the Blaarmeersen

The Blaarmeersen is a lake just south of the city. It has a Sport & Recreation Park complete with a beach, swimming area and water slides. There is also a nice lakeside cafe. To reach the lake, take bus No 11 from Ghent. The nearest stop is Blaarmeersen (Rugbylaan).

The lake is open between May and September. Exact opening times depend on the season and the weather. Check the website for more details. Entry costs €1 in advance or €5 on the day.

Dinner at Veggi & Grill

Back in the city centre for the evening, Veggi & Grill is a good place for a quick and easy dinner. They offer Syrian cuisine including very popular wraps. I opted for the mezze, which was also good.

Drinks at Trollekelder

Just round the corner is the quirky Trollekelder. This troll infested bar offers a menu boasting over 300 beers (mostly bottled, but there are a few on draught). Note: There is no physical menu, you will need to pick your selection online via a QR code. I was running very short of battery, panicked and bought a glass of Stella Artois!

• Trip taken: September 2026

I hope you found the above information useful. For guides to more destinations in the 50+ countries we have visited, check out my full list of Independent Travel Itineraries here.

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